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Stub Shaft

Is bearing on stub shaft supposed to be flush? Cause mine isn't. I can get a .040 feeler guage between housing and bearing.
 

SideHogger said:
Is bearing on stub shaft supposed to be flush? Cause mine isn't. I can get a .040 feeler guage between housing and bearing.
Click to expand...
Yes it should be flush. Mine was the same. Threw it in my press and it took a fair bit of force to get it flush. Have you blown a few belts at high speeds?
 
DMCTurbo said:
Yes it should be flush. Mine was the same. Threw it in my press and it took a fair bit of force to get it flush. Have you blown a few belts at high speeds?
Click to expand...
Just 2 in 4000 miles but excessive heat in secondary but just pulled primary and I found large gap. I switched to ultimax and caught it and secondary ready to let go. Can get 1000 miles to a belt but looking to get better!
 
Last edited:
The stub shaft bearing outer surface is usually what moves in the stub shaft retaining collar. If you look at the lower pic of the used assemble you can see a bit of a gap.
If you press the bearing and shaft out of the outer collar, coat the outer bearing surface with green bearing retention Loctite, then press the whole assembly in the ring until it bottoms out, you should be good to go.
 
sideshowBob said:
The stub shaft bearing outer surface is usually what moves in the stub shaft retaining collar. If you look at the lower pic of the used assemble you can see a bit of a gap.
If you press the bearing and shaft out of the outer collar, coat the outer bearing surface with green bearing retention Loctite, then press the whole assembly in the ring until it bottoms out, you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

So, is the brand new one (pictured above in post #20) I took out of the box not set correctly? I've only seen two in my life--the old assembly I removed, and the new one I unboxed. I don't have any other frame of reference, but I'm guessing (hoping) the new one out-of-the-box was pressed correctly by the factory, and it has a gap.
 
snowcaine said:
So, is the brand new one (pictured above in post #20) I took out of the box not set correctly? I've only seen two in my life--the old assembly I removed, and the new one I unboxed. I don't have any other frame of reference, but I'm guessing (hoping) the new one out-of-the-box was pressed correctly by the factory, and it has a gap.
Click to expand...

Its so hard to tell from pics. If you don't have a hydraulic press, I would bring it to a machine shop and ask them to confirm the bearing is seated. A friend on mine with a tuned Winder was blowing 8JP belts every few hundred miles so I had him remove and bring me his stub shaft assembly. When I put his stub shaft in my hydraulic press the bearing moved almost .040" in the collar. I think they all need to be checked.
 
Does anyone have the part number for the Yamaha clutch puller?

Hank
 
The housing has a relief cut into it on the side enabling 0 clearance for the bearing to fully seat. Should be no gap.
CBB8C2B4-EE82-499D-A830-903CE70DE7CB.jpeg
 
SideHogger said:
Snowcaine, it looks from pictures that the new one has more of a gap than the old?
Click to expand...

It’s the lighting. The old one has a visible concave slope inward from the outside portion of the bearing to the center of the bearing. There is a 1.5mm height difference between the old one and the new one sitting side by side. Photo of that is in the link I put in post #20. Will take some more pics today. I’m concerned if I have a brand-new out of the box unit that’s not correctly seated!
 
snowcaine said:
It’s the lighting. The old one has a visible concave slope inward from the outside portion of the bearing to the center of the bearing. There is a 1.5mm height difference between the old one and the new one sitting side by side. Photo of that is in the link I put in post #20. Will take some more pics today. I’m concerned if I have a brand-new out of the box unit that’s not correctly seated!
Click to expand...

Ok couple of things to note:

1. As I mentioned above, the only two stub shaft assemblies I've ever seen are the one I removed from my machine and the new one I unboxed from Yamaha. Both had a gap as shown in post #20 above. I intend to buy another assembly to toss on the shelf. When I get it, I'm very interested to see what kind of gap it has. If knowledgeable people like Cannondale say it should sit flush with no gap, then I'd trust that when disassembling/reassembling!

2. What I mentioned in post #28 regarding a concave slope inward from the outside portion of the bearing to the center of the bearing is shown with the following pictures. On my old stub shaft assembly, there is a 1.17 mm inward slope from the outside of the bearing seal to the inner portion of the bearing seal, and it is visually obvious in person. On my new stub shaft assembly, that surface is visually flat (I didn't measure it before I installed it, but it was visually flat).

Surface To Outer Part Of Seal

Surface To Outer Part Of Seal


Surface To Inner Part Of Seal

Surface To Inner Part Of Seal


3. For what it's worth, on my old stub shaft assembly, there is a 0.011" gap between the stub shaft collar and the bearing seating surface. I didn't measure the new one, but when I get my shelf unit, I'll measure that one to compare.

Distance From Stub Shaft Collar To Bearing Seating Surface

Distance From Stub Shaft Collar To Bearing Seating Surface

 
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