Stuck in limp mode

[Taycarrington]

07 Phazer FX. No mods whatsoever. No reverse option.

Will not come out of limp mode. 4500 ish RPMs max.

Bypassed TORS and speed sensor.
New plugs, new battery, (fully charged). Tons of spark, starts and idles perfectly. Idles cold at 2650 ish and after warm up will drop to 1800 ish...as per manual.

Checked continuity from TORS harness to ECM as well as ground to ensure that bypass is indeed going to ground. All good there. Checked harnesses for wear and connections, and I'd think all was well there, too.
Checked TORS handlebar switch continuity. All good.
Sled is suspiciously low on the odometer, (1013 kms), so I might be led to believe that the speed sensor was unhooked at some point in time, (if you can still run normally while removed or disconnected). Sled does the same limp mode bullshit no matter whether speed sensor and/or TORS is connected/bypassed or not.

So, life sucks at 3000 rpm.
Can't locate any missing or loose cables/wires/hoses. No leaks, odd noises, misfiring/ etc. Runs like a champ, but just acts like TORS is active 100% of the time.

What am I missing? Other than ECU replacement, ($1287!!!), what should I be chasing? No codes are active, and if I unplug any particular harness, it will show the proper code. Plug it back in and the code clears. Things seem to be operating normally.
No cash to simply drop it off at the dealer, so I'm stuck repairing it at home.
Thanks in advance for any technical know-how.

Frustrated.

 

[sailor joe]

try pushing down on the throttle cable, it could be a safety feature that when the throttle gets stuck it needs to be reset and thats when it goes into limp mode, happened to me...might want to check your oil sensor and level too.

 

[Mooseman]

Does the cluster flash code 84 when TORS activates? I had the same issue even with the throttle switch bypassed like you and wound up being the throttle position sensor.
Put it in diagnostic mode and check that it's within spec. Mine was within spec and it still needed to be replaced.

 

[cannondale27]

I am biased to blaming a coil because this happened to me. Sometimes swapping parts is the only way to figure these things out. Will it rev on the stand? Can you find someone with a Phazer or other Phazer models to help you swap parts?

 

[Taycarrington]

try pushing down on the throttle cable, it could be a safety feature that when the throttle gets stuck it needs to be reset and thats when it goes into limp mode, happened to me...might want to check your oil sensor and level too.

Thanks for the reply. Tested the switch at the harness where it plugs with the multimeter and it rang out to spec resistance. Also removed the whole switch and functioned it manually while testing, and tested the ground leg as well. TORS switch is good. Levels are good but I will check the oil level sender, although it should throw a code when oil is low...

 

[Taycarrington]

Does the cluster flash code 84 when TORS activates? I had the same issue even with the throttle switch bypassed like you and wound up being the throttle position sensor.
Put it in diagnostic mode and check that it's within spec. Mine was within spec and it still needed to be replaced.

Does the cluster flash code 84 when TORS activates? I had the same issue even with the throttle switch bypassed like you and wound up being the throttle position sensor.
Put it in diagnostic mode and check that it's within spec. Mine was within spec and it still needed to be replaced.

That's a possibility. And would this cause the limp mode issue? No codes flash when you are pushing the throttle and it's holding are 4500 ish. I put it in diagnostic mode as well, but I'm not sure I read the info correctly. I'll try again.
Thanks for the reply!

 

[Taycarrington]

I am biased to blaming a coil because this happened to me. Sometimes swapping parts is the only way to figure these things out. Will it rev on the stand? Can you find someone with a Phazer or other Phazer models to help you swap parts?

Swapped the coils out, but still the same issue. Plugs as well. And all the work I've done has been on a stand. Tried removing the belt as well, but I'm pretty sure that the ECU needs to see some info from the speed sensor. Track turns, clutches open and close easily. Thanks for the reply

 

[74Nitro]

How did you bypass the speed sensor?
I would hook everything up, no need to bypass anything.

 

[Taycarrington]

Hooked it all up normally as well, once I determined that things seemed to be working, (TORS, speed sensor)...
If it's not the throttle position sensor, then I'm out of options, other than changing the ECU...which I can't afford.
Thanks for your reply

 

[74Nitro]

Hooked it all up normally as well, once I determined that things seemed to be working, (TORS, speed sensor)...
If it's not the throttle position sensor, then I'm out of options, other than changing the ECU...which I can't afford.
Thanks for your reply

It won't be the ECU

 

[74Nitro]

Does the speedo read correctly as you rev it up?
I've seen before where the metal tooth gear falls of the driveshaft from the bolt not tightened up. (the metal tooth gear in front of the speedo sensor)

 

[74Nitro]

Also, have you visually inspected the sensor? Maybe the bearing has failed causing damage.

 

[Taycarrington]

You bet. Bearing is pristine and there's no visual damage anywhere on the speed sensor. Wires to the sensor are within continuity range. Speed and rpm rise and fall with track/engine speed.
I'm thinking ECU or TPS at this point. Hopefully the cheaper of the two. I wish I had a buddy that had one that I could swap parts to troubleshoot..

 

[YukonMP]

You have the greatest minds on TY helping you .... I however am not one of them but I'm thinking check all your ground blocks and rest assured it is unlikely as heck that it is the ECU .... but check all the connections. What is your impression of the state of all the connections ... was this thing open trailered or stored under a downspout? Problems like yours can be one pin connection that is too corroded.

 

[Taycarrington]

You have the greatest minds on TY helping you .... I however am not one of them but I'm thinking check all your ground blocks and rest assured it is unlikely as heck that it is the ECU .... but check all the connections. What is your impression of the state of all the connections ... was this thing open trailered or stored under a downspout? Problems like yours can be one pin connection that is too corroded.

Super fortunate to have these fine folks helping out, for sure!
I was hoping to not get into all the grounds, but I'm at that point, I guess. General shape of the sled is immaculate, and only 1013 kms. Most connections are clean, no corrosion. There's been three owners thus far, so I don't necessarily agree with the odometer..
Bought the damn thing for my daughter, who is a sled head like her father and brothers...so want to fix it and move on lol