KHEXX
Pro
I'm toying with the idea of studding my track this year but i have a couple questions...Does adding the rotating weight to the track suck up some HP or some top end MPH? I hook up pretty well with a low engaged clutch and I am an experienced rider who does probably 90% trails.....
Also a bit worried about the small clearance between the track and the heat exchanger...
Also a bit worried about the small clearance between the track and the heat exchanger...
raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
96 up the middle 1.375 was nice for mine. all double backed. Lose a little speed but u wont notice it. 1-2 mph maybee.
Bahr05
Expert
Does anyone have a DXF file or drawing for a stud template for the double backed studs? I would like to cut one out on the waterjet at work. All I have is the standard stud template, and I am ashamed to say it, I have the 13.5" wide template for Firecats.
I actually don't care what brand people ride. The way I look at it, it's better riding something, rather than sitting on the recliner watching it snow!!
I actually don't care what brand people ride. The way I look at it, it's better riding something, rather than sitting on the recliner watching it snow!!
raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
i could post a pic of my track when i get home of the stud pattern. i have the template at home but dont know how id get it on the computer to give ya
KHEXX
Pro
raginyamaha said:
Which studs/backers you using? Are you runnning the ripsaw/stock track?
raginyamaha
TY 4 Stroke Master
i was till i put a new track on this summer. heres what it looked like. they were just a woodys kit that the dealership had and threw in when i bought the sled. never bent or broke any studs and it wasnt from lack of effort... as long as ur using 1.375 you wont have any issues with the heat exchanger either. unless they pull out but i think its a little harder with double backers.
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sorenson1610
TY 4 Stroke God
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Go for it, I'm doing 144 1.450 length studs this year on my stock rip saw. I went with mach studs, with single and double backers. So a double and a single on each row. I pretty much gathered the only draw back from the double backers are if you tear out, it's going to do more damage to the track but they also give more support. Check them out, they are a site supporter too. Talk to Jim, great guy to deal with.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I recommend Fast Trac Air Lite XL backers. They're stronger than aluminum and have a taller neck on them, so you can use the regular steel lock nuts. I don't like the aluminum nuts, they strip out too easy and just can't get them as tight as the steel nuts.
Word around town seems to be the double backers hold better than singles, but I've had good luck with the singles. I prefer round ones too, easier to install, don't have to worry about keeping them "square" like the square backers. If I was studding a single ply track or a Cobra track, I would only use doubles.
Word around town seems to be the double backers hold better than singles, but I've had good luck with the singles. I prefer round ones too, easier to install, don't have to worry about keeping them "square" like the square backers. If I was studding a single ply track or a Cobra track, I would only use doubles.
KHEXX
Pro
sleddingfarmer said:
Do you think 96 down the middle would work? Also saw something about wear on the shock if you stud down the middle....
zeke66
Expert
Whatever you do, I would highly recommend the "tall" nuts for the studs. I also stayed away from dead center just for shock clearance.
I stayed away from the edge of the track, 121 ( or was it 123, I forget ) down the middle. No problems in @2200 miles.
I would also assume, you lose some MPH and also MPG with the added rotational weight/resistance.
Used the round pointed Woody's, Blue aluminumn backers and the tall nuts. I also used the blue locktite on each one.
I stayed away from the edge of the track, 121 ( or was it 123, I forget ) down the middle. No problems in @2200 miles.
I would also assume, you lose some MPH and also MPG with the added rotational weight/resistance.
Used the round pointed Woody's, Blue aluminumn backers and the tall nuts. I also used the blue locktite on each one.
KHEXX
Pro
http://www.johnmaster.net/Hedgehog_Studs_p/h83c.htm
Looking at these..The H83C, he recommended 144 singles wih the airlite backers!!!! Heard these studs are great and he's a local guy!!!
Looking at these..The H83C, he recommended 144 singles wih the airlite backers!!!! Heard these studs are great and he's a local guy!!!
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I don't think 96 is enough for a nearly 140 hp machine.
Johnmaster is a good guy. 144 singles down the center with round air lite xl backers, that is a good combo. Its what I'm running on my sled.
I'd avoid the very center of the track. For shock clearance, and also because thats the place the track will balloon out the most and has the best chance of hitting the heat exchanger.
I used the tall aluminum nuts, but I don't recommend them. They strip out too easily. I stripped a few out and then just put the steel nuts on. I think they work better, you can really cinch them down tight. And with the air light XL backer you don't need the tall nut anyways
Johnmaster is a good guy. 144 singles down the center with round air lite xl backers, that is a good combo. Its what I'm running on my sled.
I'd avoid the very center of the track. For shock clearance, and also because thats the place the track will balloon out the most and has the best chance of hitting the heat exchanger.
I used the tall aluminum nuts, but I don't recommend them. They strip out too easily. I stripped a few out and then just put the steel nuts on. I think they work better, you can really cinch them down tight. And with the air light XL backer you don't need the tall nut anyways
KHEXX
Pro
sleddingfarmer said:I don't think 96 is enough for a nearly 140 hp machine.
Johnmaster is a good guy. 144 singles down the center with round air lite xl backers, that is a good combo. Its what I'm running on my sled.
I'd avoid the very center of the track. For shock clearance, and also because thats the place the track will balloon out the most and has the best chance of hitting the heat exchanger.
I used the tall aluminum nuts, but I don't recommend them. They strip out too easily. I stripped a few out and then just put the steel nuts on. I think they work better, you can really cinch them down tight. And with the air light XL backer you don't need the tall nut anyways
Awesome to hear!! I mentioned o him that I love the setup I have right now, just getting loose in icy conditions. Don't want too much bite in the rear, he recommended 144 with lower exposure singles with the round backers as you recommended...thanks for the info farmer. You goin to the state fair snow show?
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
If you only stud down the center you will still be able to kick the rear end out in the corners if you really try. Especially if you let the inside ski come up a little, then the track will rotate off the ground slightly giving you a little bit of slide.
Studding the outside gives way to much traction IMO, I like to be a little loose
What is the State Fair Snow Show?
Studding the outside gives way to much traction IMO, I like to be a little loose
What is the State Fair Snow Show?
KHEXX
Pro
sleddingfarmer said:
Nice so i can still slide through some of the corners!!! PERFECT!!
There is a snow show at the milwaukee state fair grounds on the weekend of OCT 14,15,16 swap meet outside and inside the state fair pavillion there is all things snow related with all the manufacturers / dealers....
