Summer storage.

[cannondale27]

I do, only because the skid is already out for inspection, so upon reinstall it does not get tightened till next fall. Only enough now to be run up and trued.

Thats not a bad idea I think. Noticed that the track develops a kink from bends even after a week. probably doesnt hurt anything but why not.

 

[Sevey]

If you have the time, I think its best to have the rear end raised and slack the track off for the summer. That way its not under tension. MS

 

[CooperT]

I got the rear lifted, I'll loosen track off.

 

[NOS-PRO]

I know, I'm different.... LOL

Remove skis and put roller skis on
Remove suspension, take out rear shock and put strut in
Swap snow track to asphalt track, reassemble and hopefully win the points championship for 2016

 

[yamahaguy]

Summer Storage, We have a walkout basement and I couldn't find a better place to store our sleds then right in the house, am I wrong guys?

 

[CooperT]

I know, I'm different.... LOL

Remove skis and put roller skis on
Remove suspension, take out rear shock and put strut in
Swap snow track to asphalt track, reassemble and hopefully win the points championship for 2016

Yes you are different, maybe a little too much! Lol

 

[NOS-PRO]

 

[super1c]

Summer Storage, We have a walkout basement and I couldn't find a better place to store our sleds then right in the house, am I wrong guys?

I thought of this but i dont think my wife would like replacing one of the couches with a snowmobile. Me im ok with it!

 

[Sevey]

Yamahaguys if you pull that off - you rock. Gonna try it with my wife. Of course we need the walk out. Lol. Ms

 

[yamamarc]

Summer Storage, We have a walkout basement and I couldn't find a better place to store our sleds then right in the house, am I wrong guys?[/QUOTE
Ha that is probably the best spot no mice climate control
Just place a TV in front of them grab a cooler fill with ice and a few Molsons have a seat and you got a Saturday night

 

[jsslye]

Engine oil and filter? Bueller? Bueller??? Did I miss the obvious? Add changing the engine oil and filter at the end of the season to the list - probably the most important thing! Chain case oil too. for that matter, while you're sitting there with half the sled torn apart to do the oil (bless my '09 Nytro - it was so much easier!!!) I don't care if I get 500 miles of 2000 miles a season, I do it every year. If you're not going to change it, at the very least put some form of engine oil storage conditioner and stabilizer in there and run it - you don't want all those high tolerance beautifully machined engine components bathing in dirty oil all summer long. Yeah yeah save the discussion of the engine oil interval of 2500(?) miles, and especially the oil filter interval of 12,000 miles - for $50 for the kit I'd rather pay that than run new and clean oil through anything less that an equally new and clean filter. Fogging the engine is an extra measure of protection I take - having the cylinder walls coated with a little bit of fogger gives me peace of mind that the first start next season will do no undue harm to the cylinder wall and piston rings. I do it to the EFI small block in my boat so why would I not do it in my sled.

 

[Dreamsover2]

Engine oil and filter? Bueller? Bueller??? Did I miss the obvious? Add changing the engine oil and filter at the end of the season to the list - probably the most important thing! Chain case oil too. for that matter, while you're sitting there with half the sled torn apart to do the oil (bless my '09 Nytro - it was so much easier!!!) I don't care if I get 500 miles of 2000 miles a season, I do it every year. If you're not going to change it, at the very least put some form of engine oil storage conditioner and stabilizer in there and run it - you don't want all those high tolerance beautifully machined engine components bathing in dirty oil all summer long. Yeah yeah save the discussion of the engine oil interval of 2500(?) miles, and especially the oil filter interval of 12,000 miles - for $50 for the kit I'd rather pay that than run new and clean oil through anything less that an equally new and clean filter. Fogging the engine is an extra measure of protection I take - having the cylinder walls coated with a little bit of fogger gives me peace of mind that the first start next season will do no undue harm to the cylinder wall and piston rings. I do it to the EFI small block in my boat so why would I not do it in my sled.

With only 36 miles on this oil change /season, I think I will be ok. What do you thInk?

 

[jsslye]

I think I would be looking for a bridge to jump off! ;-)

 

[NOS-PRO]

With only 36 miles on this oil change /season, I think I will be ok. What do you thInk?

Depends on if you keep it inside or outside. If you keep it inside, I would use the same oil next season for a few rides then change it. If you keep it oustide, the temps can change so much and create moisture/condensation and will need to be changed. Just my .02

 

[NOS-PRO]

I know I posted about asphalt racing in my earlier comment, but here is what I do to my other 7 sleds.

Fill to the top with premium (I only run premium in my sleds anyway). The reason for this is to eliminate the open area so condensation doesn't get in there.
Usually add just a little Isopropyl also.
I do not change oil, I put in fresh at the beginning of the season.
Start the sleds once every 2 months and let them get really warm so if there is any condensation....it will evaporate with the heat.
Rotate tracks at the very least and if I have a clean out stand I will rev the sleds with a little water on the slides.

I do not keep a battery tender on the sleds, but do put a charger on them a day before I fire them up. Never had an issue with gunked up carbs, dead battery or track/belt issues. I work on peoples sleds and from using regular (10% ethanol) you wouldn't believe how the fuel deteriorates and gunks up. Adding stable only makes it worse.