Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
I understand there is a PB80 for the Viper. I'm in a bit of a spending freeze at the moment (plus the season is all but over) because we made extra payments on both properties so it will have to wait, but I have a quote.
For the moment put the pink secondary back in at a 6-1 wrap shim the helix and try that.
That was going to be my suggestion as well, try the stock secondary spring. The red spring works good but with the few miles I have on this year using it it seems like it needs to run fairly loose to allow the secondary to keep shifting, I ended up with 3-3 using the red spring and 6-1 with the stock spring to be comparable in performance and speeds. With that helix it is already machined so that it will shift farther and the pocket where the spring sits is cut a little deeper too so no need to shim the helix.
Bad Attitude
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- 2014 Yamaha Viper LTX SE
Very interested!!
TD Max
Lifetime Member
I started a new thread regarding my initial experiences pink versus red secondary.
jetpilot785
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I haven't tried going back to the stock secondary spring as the stock spring was coil binding and holding the shift back. As far as the red spring goes, I just left it as Ulmer sent it to me after the machining and spring install. I guess I just figured it was good as is and I just had to figure out the primary to achieve desired results. Not sure if dropping down the spring to a 3-3 like barry did if I will like it on the trail. I like quick backshafting for aggressive trail riding and Barry likes to drag race so the two of us want our sleds to do 2 different things so not sure how much backshift I will lose reducing the spring pressure. I guess I will have to dedicate a day to f'ing around with it and see what I can come up with.
I think I am still going to try and convert to the Team Industries clutches as I had great luck with them in the past and they use compression springs in their secondaries instead of torsion springs so more side bite on the belt for little to no slippage and no rotational sheave movement which eliminates belt scrubbing. That may also help with the belt dust/squeaky brakes issue. My brakes have faded over time due to the dust glazing over the pads reducing efficiency and they squeal to a stop. It just sounds terrible for a brand new high tech looking machine to roll up to a stop and sound like a damn jalopy. Plus it's irritating to listen to in the trails when I blip the brake to set the sled up for the corner.
I think I am still going to try and convert to the Team Industries clutches as I had great luck with them in the past and they use compression springs in their secondaries instead of torsion springs so more side bite on the belt for little to no slippage and no rotational sheave movement which eliminates belt scrubbing. That may also help with the belt dust/squeaky brakes issue. My brakes have faded over time due to the dust glazing over the pads reducing efficiency and they squeal to a stop. It just sounds terrible for a brand new high tech looking machine to roll up to a stop and sound like a damn jalopy. Plus it's irritating to listen to in the trails when I blip the brake to set the sled up for the corner.
Studroes144
TY 4 Stroke God
I haven't tried going back to the stock secondary spring as the stock spring was coil binding and holding the shift back. As far as the red spring goes, I just left it as Ulmer sent it to me after the machining and spring install. I guess I just figured it was good as is and I just had to figure out the primary to achieve desired results. Not sure if dropping down the spring to a 3-3 like barry did if I will like it on the trail. I like quick backshafting for aggressive trail riding and Barry likes to drag race so the two of us want our sleds to do 2 different things so not sure how much backshift I will lose reducing the spring pressure. I guess I will have to dedicate a day to f'ing around with it and see what I can come up with.
I think I am still going to try and convert to the Team Industries clutches as I had great luck with them in the past and they use compression springs in their secondaries instead of torsion springs so more side bite on the belt for little to no slippage and no rotational sheave movement which eliminates belt scrubbing. That may also help with the belt dust/squeaky brakes issue. My brakes have faded over time due to the dust glazing over the pads reducing efficiency and they squeal to a stop. It just sounds terrible for a brand new high tech looking machine to roll up to a stop and sound like a damn jalopy. Plus it's irritating to listen to in the trails when I blip the brake to set the sled up for the corner.
If you do end up going with new clutches and want to sell the D&D clutch kit let me know, got two buddies wanting to buy them but weights are on back order.
ViperBill
Pro
will you also need to change the primary to the ac clutch. Its my understanding that the belt angle is diferent between the yami and ac. If the team is made for the ac it would use their belt angle.
jetpilot785
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will you also need to change the primary to the ac clutch. Its my understanding that the belt angle is diferent between the yami and ac. If the team is made for the ac it would use their belt angle.
That's fine, I would look into the Gates belts as I am hearing a lot of guys are liking them and saying their belt dust is severely reduced. doesn't matter to me what the angle is as long as it does the job.
mattyg1405
Expert
If the angle of the belt doesn't match the angle of the sheaves, it will not do the job.That's fine, I would look into the Gates belts as I am hearing a lot of guys are liking them and saying their belt dust is severely reduced. doesn't matter to me what the angle is as long as it does the job.
jetpilot785
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If the angle of the belt doesn't match the angle of the sheaves, it will not do the job.
I understand that brother. What I meant is I don't care if it's a yamaha, arctic cat, skidoo or Polaris belt angle. As long as whatever angle the clutches require does the job, I don't care. I will use the gates or whatever equivalent belt that the clutches are set up for. So if it requires the arctic cat angle, then I will buy either the arctic cat belt or the gates equivalent ZR 7000 belt.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
If you change both then yes you will more than likely have to use there belt , but I'm putting a call in to team to ask
mattyg1405
Expert
Haha I thought you meant something else!I understand that brother. What I meant is I don't care if it's a yamaha, arctic cat, skidoo or Polaris belt angle. As long as whatever angle the clutches require does the job, I don't care. I will use the gates or whatever equivalent belt that the clutches are set up for. So if it requires the arctic cat angle, then I will buy either the arctic cat belt or the gates equivalent ZR 7000 belt.
ViperBill
Pro
I guess what I was saying if the team matches the ac belt you will not be able to use the yamaha primary as they will both be diferent.
STAIN
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It seems strange that some have so much belt dust. I have none--the 8jp seems to be ok for me. Something has to be causing the dust beside the belt. Somewhere these clutches are not preforming normally. I wish we could find out what is going on. Yamaha clutches in the past have been bulletproof.
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Maybe everyone else is just getting better and Yamaha just stays the same , but just putting the team secondary with yamaha primary will work just fine
STAIN
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Maybe, but Yamaha clutches never bound up or slipped belts like these do. And the 8JP is a SOFTER belt, it should grab harder. I don't get it, something is different. If it gets figured out someone here at TY will do it.
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