Testing Viper "ECU voltage flash"...

[Janne339]

Testing cold starting at -13 degrees Celsius. We has rain last week so all snow is gone. But now its colder again and hoping there will be some snowing also.

 

[Janne339]

Starting without extra battery to ECU. Voltage drops to 8,4 volt when turning the key. On left side you see RPM

 

[Janne339]

Starting with extra battery to ECU and extra ground to "tcl" and motor block. No voltage drops. Left side you see RPM.

 

[Janne339]

If someone will test on their own sleds?

Red to (+) on extra battery. Black to (-) on extra battery. Extra ground from (-) extra battery to motor block.

 

[Janne339]

If voltage drop is an issue, it might be helpful to install a polarized electrolytic capacitor at the +12 volt input to the ECU. This capacitor would release its stored charge to try and maintain the +12 volts during the voltage lag caused by the inrush current of the starter motor. If people are interested, I could do a little research into what value of capacitor would be best for this application. This capacitor would also have the additional benefit of "shunting" some unwanted AC transient signals created by the starter motor to ground. Sometime computer processors can get confused when their DC supply voltage has transient AC voltages on it. If the ECU was not designed with solid filtering, this could easily be the problem. Additionally, many electrolytic capacitors fail prematurely and sometimes if a bargain brand is used they can be bad from the start. Theoretically, this filtering could be done at the battery but it is always best to do your filtering right at the destination, into this case the ECU. It might be possible to do it at the fuse box too.

Great Vilas!! Awesome!
A person with knowledge about 12 volts electric system and wiring harness is maybe what the Siemens/ Continental synerject easy-u1 ECU needs!

This ECU works on the Ducati Monster bikes. And thats bikes works very nice...

 

[Janne339]

Is that guy on this forum?

 

[cannondale27]

Is that guy on this forum?

Yes. There are others also. Yellowknife is one I think about a lot.

 

[Dinner]

Did a few quick tests before I have to leave. With the sled sitting over night, initial battery charge was 12.44V. Once I turned the ignition on, it dropped to 11.8V, then leveled out to 12V. Initial starter draw is 180 Amps while pulling battery voltage down to 10.5V. The battery that is on my sled is good for 300 something CCA (I forget the exact number). When we first turn the ignition on, with the accessories and fuel pump running I'm seeing a 6 Amp draw. Once the fuel pump quits it's cycle, Amp draw levels out to 3.3-3.4 Amps.

I will do some more testing like you've done with the second battery, etc once I have a chance...hopefully tomorrow!

 

[Vilas]

What software program are you using to see the voltages and RPM? I should really have that so when I do some testing with capacitors I can keep an eye on the data.

 

[Janne339]

What software program are you using to see the voltages and RPM? I should really have that so when I do some testing with capacitors I can keep an eye on the data.

I'm running MCX turbo and use MCX DLU (display & log unit). MCX DLU is able to save and log all data from MCX gen5.

MCX gen5 is something equivalent Power Commander.

 

[Janne339]

Someone have a complete electrical diagram? Side 148 in 2015 Viper service manual I found a electrical diagram. But very small text that can not be read?

 

[grizztracks]

Someone have a complete electrical diagram? Side 148 in 2015 Viper service manual I found a electrical diagram. But very small text that can not be read?

Check the FAQ I have legible schematics there. The Viper (Arctic Cat) schematics are not as easy to understand as Yamaha's so it takes a bit more effort to follow the flow. If you have any questions let me know. I've become somewhat familiar with them.

http://ty4stroke.com/threads/anyone-have-a-legable-wire-schematic.141871/#post-1297360

 

[Bamboo]

wonder if this guys idea could be incorporated.
http://laserhacker.com/?p=110

 

[cannondale27]

Yes kind of but the going theory here is to keep the ECU,Dash,Pump etc alive and steady without a battery while starting. We shouldn't need to worry about the starter if it starts correctly and quickly. All theory right now but a darn good one from the evidence I see here. Of course there are probably other contributing issues out there which contribute to the big problem sleds. It might be that Yamaha is taking the easiest and cheapest route to a so called fix with a reflash when they should be rewiring the whole sled. The capacitor idea is the next best thing to rewiring since it adds another component which could fail. That's a great article Bamboo. Capacitors have come a long way. Someday we will be adding Capacitors to our electric motors or Propulsion units of some sort for Boost!

lasersaber on July 3, 2013 at 11:10 am


If you did that you would not need to use the LiFePO4 battery. It might extend the life of your car battery. It would remove a large part of the cranking amps from the battery when starting the car.

 

[Bamboo]

Re wiring the sled is not a option I'm my books. We just need a smaller version of this and we should be set. http://www.maxwell.com/esm/
i personally use a EarthX battery. While they are great. But truly suck when really cold. Every time Ive had starting issues is when its been really cold out and the battery has not been able to perform as needed. For now I just take the battery inside and re install in the morning. With a warm battery even at -40C the sled fires up no problem. But with it cold and not sending proper voltage the ECU reacts like a drunk teen.