Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
..SNAKEBIT.. said:
Snakebite, maybe chime in on how that setup works when you get a few miles on it.. To me it should work, but it really depends on the muffler length/thickness. The Excell Vector/Muffler setup is what I really would like to use, but I am pretty sure I am going to have to fabricate a very thin muffler to get it to work with the powerclaw/AC skid.
One question. What is the inside diameter of the Excell Vector Header?
Thanks,
OTM
..SNAKEBIT..
Expert
mine is not very round ID @ 1.75 / OD @ 1.88
I slide a 2" od exhaust pipe over it
OK MY BIG QUESTION
should I dump it straight out the back or
make a 180' turn pipe and dump it foward?
last year it went straight out BUT the end was right at the
flap and melted the he11 out of it when the track caught the flap and pulled it foward
I slide a 2" od exhaust pipe over it
OK MY BIG QUESTION
should I dump it straight out the back or
make a 180' turn pipe and dump it foward?
last year it went straight out BUT the end was right at the
flap and melted the he11 out of it when the track caught the flap and pulled it foward
beeze455
Expert
Has anybody found out the solution with the ratcheting and a loose track. I am still running mine pretty tight and was wondeirng. thanks.
FYI tonight I decided to completely loosen my front shock 100%. It cannot get any looser and my rear shock should be at 145psi.
FYI tonight I decided to completely loosen my front shock 100%. It cannot get any looser and my rear shock should be at 145psi.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Beeze:
My guess is what you are looking for is a pretty small adjustment in the suspension because my 153 takes only six turns of the 3/8-16 track adjuster bolt to go from the front of the adjuster (full slack) to tight. Thats 6/16" or 3/8". you are probably looking for 1/2 that...or less (shorter track and we are talking CHANGES in tension).
Part of the tension problem might be that their isn't enough rail ahead of the front rail axle mount to compensate (add tension) for big hits to the back of the skid... Or when you stomp on the gas at WOT the back has a tendency to squat, and the front to extend. So if there isn't enough of an angle ahead of the front axle mount the track will get slacker..
I'd might try 2 things, and no cast in stone here, merely educated guesses
1. Limter strap: With your current track tensioned the way you have it. Suck up your limiter strap one or 2 holes and see if the track tension changes...it should get looser. I know it will mess up the handling, but its only to test.
If your track slackens noticably in the higher limiter position, readjust to your current tension and test it out to see if it still ratchets.
2 Consider lowering your drop bracket holes. When I lowered my mtx from the upper drop bracket holes to the lower holes (exactly 1 inch), the track slacked off quite a bit, as it affected overall geometry. Similar to above, moving holes might subtly improve the front track angle under power, which affects tension, but I would see this more of a power fix than a trail one.
If solution 1 works, then I'd probably try solution 2, as it is less of an impact on handling.
FYI, my tunnel mounts are 31.25 apart, but I cannot see this making a track tension difference.
OTM
My guess is what you are looking for is a pretty small adjustment in the suspension because my 153 takes only six turns of the 3/8-16 track adjuster bolt to go from the front of the adjuster (full slack) to tight. Thats 6/16" or 3/8". you are probably looking for 1/2 that...or less (shorter track and we are talking CHANGES in tension).
Part of the tension problem might be that their isn't enough rail ahead of the front rail axle mount to compensate (add tension) for big hits to the back of the skid... Or when you stomp on the gas at WOT the back has a tendency to squat, and the front to extend. So if there isn't enough of an angle ahead of the front axle mount the track will get slacker..
I'd might try 2 things, and no cast in stone here, merely educated guesses
1. Limter strap: With your current track tensioned the way you have it. Suck up your limiter strap one or 2 holes and see if the track tension changes...it should get looser. I know it will mess up the handling, but its only to test.
If your track slackens noticably in the higher limiter position, readjust to your current tension and test it out to see if it still ratchets.
2 Consider lowering your drop bracket holes. When I lowered my mtx from the upper drop bracket holes to the lower holes (exactly 1 inch), the track slacked off quite a bit, as it affected overall geometry. Similar to above, moving holes might subtly improve the front track angle under power, which affects tension, but I would see this more of a power fix than a trail one.
If solution 1 works, then I'd probably try solution 2, as it is less of an impact on handling.
FYI, my tunnel mounts are 31.25 apart, but I cannot see this making a track tension difference.
OTM
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I've ran C to C's anywhere from 31-32 and it doesnt seem to make a difference. If I collapse just the front arm or rear arm alone the tension stays pretty tight. It's when both arms collapse at the same time that the track gets super loose.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Nikolai:
A bit off topic, but running the same BDX front shock mount that bent on you....and thinking its pretty flimsy for the hits it takes. Love to keep them as they get rid of the big cat idlers, but wondering if it would work with a 4130 steel shaft or better yet, running two 20mm bearing on a 7075 aluminum shaft and machining a UHMW cover over the bearing to get them to 2.5" OD.
Won't be as light as BDX but both should be more durable.
I also have a steel lower shock shaft from Cat so clearly durablity has been an issue.
OTM
A bit off topic, but running the same BDX front shock mount that bent on you....and thinking its pretty flimsy for the hits it takes. Love to keep them as they get rid of the big cat idlers, but wondering if it would work with a 4130 steel shaft or better yet, running two 20mm bearing on a 7075 aluminum shaft and machining a UHMW cover over the bearing to get them to 2.5" OD.
Won't be as light as BDX but both should be more durable.
I also have a steel lower shock shaft from Cat so clearly durablity has been an issue.
OTM
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
If I had a lathe I'd have already made a chromoly shaft. I'll have one early this summer and that's one of the fist parts I'm making.
beeze455
Expert
I think I am going to move my skid forward.
Mine does not ratchet, but my track is tight and my buddy with mainly the same suspension never has an issue and he runs it loose. Many on the AC forum run almost 3" of slack!
Read a ton about ratcheting. In a nutshell I found. Tighten your track, Drivers may be having a problem fitting between the nubs and a little grinding on the drivers is required or if you have a track like OTM and avids, so need to cut every other nub off.
I have none of these issues.
Started reading about setbacks on other sleds and many complained about ratcheting. The response was mainly because the tips where too far back.
I have an inch plus of tightening on the rear and I wanna run the track loose anyways.
Not sure when I will do this because I am busy riding in my free time. : )
Mine does not ratchet, but my track is tight and my buddy with mainly the same suspension never has an issue and he runs it loose. Many on the AC forum run almost 3" of slack!
Read a ton about ratcheting. In a nutshell I found. Tighten your track, Drivers may be having a problem fitting between the nubs and a little grinding on the drivers is required or if you have a track like OTM and avids, so need to cut every other nub off.
I have none of these issues.
Started reading about setbacks on other sleds and many complained about ratcheting. The response was mainly because the tips where too far back.
I have an inch plus of tightening on the rear and I wanna run the track loose anyways.
Not sure when I will do this because I am busy riding in my free time. : )
beeze455
Expert
Well, my undertunnel is gone somewhere. Some hiker is gonna be like WTF?
LOL
LOL
hugger70mtnmax
Expert
How do you not notice losing something like that??? Was the muffler that loud that it did not sound any different with it fallen off? It also seems like it would make a pretty big racket coming off.
yamaha1973
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
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- 2014 Viper XTX SE
hugger70mtnmax said:
X2 that had to be crazy loud
beeze455
Expert
When we unloaded it that night it was very loud and me and my friend where both like jesus that muffler is loud. It may have come loose on the trail and fell off on the way home. not sure.
Off Trail Mike
Gone Riding!
Beeze:
Not surprised. had my Yoshi pop off the header once, and dislodge parallel to the header.....Power was better...faster acceleration, but while driving, didn't really notice anything was wrong, but when I stopped I knew something was amiss.
Do you think the track caught it or did it just fall off?
One sidebar question: How is your slider wear on the AC skid? First trip I had none. Second trip, I have wear on one hyfax but not the other??? Not to the limit yet, but pretty close. My bad really cause I haven't installed the scratchers yet and did like 30 miles @ 60mph on a loose snow groomed trail.
Can't decide whether to put them in the middle idler location or drill holes behind the front idler wheel. I am using an 08 rails, and the stupid things don't have scratcher mounts like the 09+ M's and xf's do.
Are you using the scratchers on trail all the time?
OTM
Not surprised. had my Yoshi pop off the header once, and dislodge parallel to the header.....Power was better...faster acceleration, but while driving, didn't really notice anything was wrong, but when I stopped I knew something was amiss.
Do you think the track caught it or did it just fall off?
One sidebar question: How is your slider wear on the AC skid? First trip I had none. Second trip, I have wear on one hyfax but not the other??? Not to the limit yet, but pretty close. My bad really cause I haven't installed the scratchers yet and did like 30 miles @ 60mph on a loose snow groomed trail.
Can't decide whether to put them in the middle idler location or drill holes behind the front idler wheel. I am using an 08 rails, and the stupid things don't have scratcher mounts like the 09+ M's and xf's do.
Are you using the scratchers on trail all the time?
OTM
beeze455
Expert
Not sure what happened, but I put a 32 dollar resonator on it. I had moved my exhaust clamp the day before and am thinking it came loose. My new setup is tight and give the track more room.
Sliders. Went thru a pair on my fourth trip--trails where hard with a dusting on top and smoked them coming back from the mountain to the truck--i could smell them. Now leave my sliders down all the time. Scratchers really help.
Sliders. Went thru a pair on my fourth trip--trails where hard with a dusting on top and smoked them coming back from the mountain to the truck--i could smell them. Now leave my sliders down all the time. Scratchers really help.
beeze455
Expert
No pics. I moved it.
So I moved the front to almost under the stock hole and the back is adjusted to more reflect the geo mod setup. My rear wheels are all the way back and the track is looser, but normal M series guys would say it is tight. No ratcheting in the yard. Gonna run it for a few days and see.
seems more like a cat setup and am gonna run 130psi and the spring 5 threads up.
So I moved the front to almost under the stock hole and the back is adjusted to more reflect the geo mod setup. My rear wheels are all the way back and the track is looser, but normal M series guys would say it is tight. No ratcheting in the yard. Gonna run it for a few days and see.
seems more like a cat setup and am gonna run 130psi and the spring 5 threads up.
