unchained
Expert
Nice pics for not being camera savy!
lucky_7
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I don't know....I would think it would for sure weaken the spring and cause a point where the spring would yield.
Let us know....thanks!
Let us know....thanks!
Absolutely! A lot of people might argue the process but the presentation is fantastic.unchained said:
I don't blame anyone for being skeptical and I don't want to be the reason for anyone breaking something, but it's working great, might even be a little on the stiff side, it now matches the floats in the front, actually hoping for a little sag in, I'll keep you posted if you want
RSD how many miles do you have on your FX nytro?
I ask because even from 200 to 300 miles I noticed my FX Nytro RTX rear torsion springs were still getting softer and softer.
SO yours may just soften down to where they are perfect!
I ask because even from 200 to 300 miles I noticed my FX Nytro RTX rear torsion springs were still getting softer and softer.
SO yours may just soften down to where they are perfect!
NyTrOMaNIaC
TY 4 Stroke Master
What a great idea ! I'm on stock settings, being 75 psi in the floats and medium on the rear torsion springs, and although I only have 205 kms on the sled, I already feel like I should move to the hard position on the rear springs. This may very well be the answer to a lot of things, more ride height/clearance and better impact absorption is what I'm considering doing it for. VERY interested to see how this plays out ! Thanks for showing us this RSD 
My rtx has 160 miles on it, 80 with the spring mod, I've now got my compression clickers at 5 and gonna go to 8 or 10, (5 being 5 clicks from full stiff), might only bend 3/4 of an inch next time instead of 1 inch. we'll see if they get softer after a while.
Superman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I must not bonzai like some of you guys. I have no complaints with my RTX. I have yet to take a shot that says "too soft" with the skid. I'm going to be slowing down the rebound and lowering the floats 10 psi from the 75psi I'm at now.
300 miles springs are doing well still feels a little stiff but no bottoming, putting in different coupling blocks soon, probably will get stiffer.
unchained
Expert
Anyone experiment with anti bottoming blocks like what the prototypes had?
NytroFever
Newbie
Aren't there optional springs you can buy??
I did that for my polaris (bought the thicker diam. springs)
These look the same to me. The wire diameter should be stamped on it. Go to a polaris dealer and see which one will match and get the higher strength one. $40 each.
I also bought one of those optional '4th' setting torsion blocks, they work. Got it off ebay last spring.
robszr800 is his ebay handle. He sells those billet blocks for $28. I know he makes them for Cat and Polaris....maybe Yamaha too??
I did that for my polaris (bought the thicker diam. springs)
These look the same to me. The wire diameter should be stamped on it. Go to a polaris dealer and see which one will match and get the higher strength one. $40 each.
I also bought one of those optional '4th' setting torsion blocks, they work. Got it off ebay last spring.
robszr800 is his ebay handle. He sells those billet blocks for $28. I know he makes them for Cat and Polaris....maybe Yamaha too??
Attachments
Very informative thread going here.Phazer owners are having same complaints.In my opinion raising spring rate or even having less sag is couterproductive since it will affect coupling and higher ride hieght will affect handling.Shocks prevent bottoming without affecting either of those.My goal is to have lowest possible ride hieght without bottoming or loss of nice ride.So far my change to Custom axis skid shock has allowed me to back off my torsion spring setting to all the way soft still doesnt bottom.With stock shock it bottomed all the time and when set to stiffest setting rebound was way to fast.Next step is to get a softer torsion spring to lower rear ride hieght and possibly ZPS the center shock.So far ride quality is awesome but handling could be better.High C.G. is in my opinion biggest cause of ski lift in corners.
Bodacious
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I wonder if a shorter torsion bar link would help with body roll and ski lift?
unchained
Expert
Car leaf springs have helpers stacked below the loaded springs so again, why wouldnt something like the prototype anti bottoming blocks be effective on a sled?
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I did the same thing to the torsion springs on my 07 Apex RTX.
Prior to doing this I searched everywhere for springs that would give more pre-load and got nowhere. I even tried Yamaha's optional "heavy duty" springs for the 07 RTX which actually lower the sled (while being a little bit stiffer).
In the end I basically cold "unwound" the stock springs to provide a lot more ride height.
With the 07, once the ice built up under the tunnel, out of about 10" of travel, the sled was sinking up to 8" from fully extended (almost bottoming out). This is with something like 60+ lbs of ice under the tunnel, a loaded trunk and my ~240lbs ready to ride.
I aimed for 5" worth of extra pre-load as the end result and started off with something like 6-7" worth.
The springs settled down after a few 100 miles, giving me about 4" of extra ride height (which I could lower if I wanted to using the adjuster blocks).
Now after almost 4000 miles, the sled still has almost 4" extra ride height available over stock and the suspension is still holding up perfectly.
In the near future I'll be revalving the shocks (far too little damping, especially high speed compression) and at that point I figure it will be just the way I want it.
I'm tempted to try to crank the springs up a little more (to get that missing inch back), but I am concerned that the springs won't handle this a second time and might fail.
Ideally I'd still like to find more appropriate springs. Unfortunately Yamaha doesn't seem to have any plans to offer new springs.
Prior to doing this I searched everywhere for springs that would give more pre-load and got nowhere. I even tried Yamaha's optional "heavy duty" springs for the 07 RTX which actually lower the sled (while being a little bit stiffer).
In the end I basically cold "unwound" the stock springs to provide a lot more ride height.
With the 07, once the ice built up under the tunnel, out of about 10" of travel, the sled was sinking up to 8" from fully extended (almost bottoming out). This is with something like 60+ lbs of ice under the tunnel, a loaded trunk and my ~240lbs ready to ride.
I aimed for 5" worth of extra pre-load as the end result and started off with something like 6-7" worth.
The springs settled down after a few 100 miles, giving me about 4" of extra ride height (which I could lower if I wanted to using the adjuster blocks).
Now after almost 4000 miles, the sled still has almost 4" extra ride height available over stock and the suspension is still holding up perfectly.
In the near future I'll be revalving the shocks (far too little damping, especially high speed compression) and at that point I figure it will be just the way I want it.
I'm tempted to try to crank the springs up a little more (to get that missing inch back), but I am concerned that the springs won't handle this a second time and might fail.
Ideally I'd still like to find more appropriate springs. Unfortunately Yamaha doesn't seem to have any plans to offer new springs.
