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Timbersled skid question

not fully certain how the air valve got taken out...just happened twice...weird thing, and the air valve is nice and light to pack...as I said I carry two...

yes the bolts that mount the skid to the tunnel...if you have an air gun, it is easy...or if you have a hammer drill it is not bad...

when you let the air out of the shocks...let it all out, then compress them, and let the pressure out with the shocks compressed...or just put a ratchet strap around them to hold them down...skid will slide out nicely...but remember to loosen the track tensioners...
 

mtdream

Dont mean to Hi-jack here but have you come across any problems or disadvantages of running the Anti_stab kit at the Limiter strap location oppsed to at the tip of the rails? I have seen them in both locations. I think it was TTabs that told me that if you have boost it is at little better to run them a the tips of the rails because the track has more of a tendency to curl up as it comes around the drivers and catch the tips of the rails under hard acceleration. I run my at the limiter strap location without any problems but i dont have one of those trick air box things either. Just wondering if you have ever come across any problems running them lower.
Also i dont think you are the only one that has ever had the valve problem because Allen mentioned to watch out for that when he was helping me set up my suspension. I never thought about carrying extra valves just in case. that is a great idea though. Great!!! Here i am added wieght back on the sled by carying more spare parts :o|
 
So, do you guys recommend to run the anti stab kit in place of the rail caps, or should I run them in the limiter strap location? Just remove the limiter strap cross shaft, install the anti kit in it's place?
 
I run mine in the cap location. To me , I dont see the point of running the wheels back behind the farthest point forward. How else will they keep the track from stabbing the rail??

IMAG0250-1.jpg
 
Put them at the rail caps that is where they were meant to go. I modified the cap and i would recommend that as well. What would happen if a wheel should fail and come off on the antistab??
Plus it looks better to!!
 
it is unanimous, put it on the front...is not difficult to do it this way...just a drill bit...
 
Gonna call in a minute to order a set of anti stabs. Allen said to install it between the rail cap and the rubber bumper. But I like how you guys are installing it. Sounds to me that I just need to drill out a bigger hole and install. The way Allen said, I had to trim off some of the back edge of the rail cap, and trim some off the rubber bumper, and then drill some holes in the rails. Thanks for all the help everyone... I owe you some beers. I am new to Yamaha's and definitely new to the whole Timbersled skid and all the parts associated with it. Thanks again.
 
you may have to shave a little off the inside of the rail cap...but it wont be much...that really depends upon the anti-stab kit/diameter, and how precise your drilling is :)
 
as straight as it can be. I got my antistab from allen as well you will need to trim the inside of the cap as well. a sharpie and a razor blade did the trick!!
 
Cool. After further inspection, I see what you are talking about when saying to trim the inside of the rail caps. The diameter of the shaft for the anti stab kit is larger than the diameter of the rail cap, so removing material to make the kit fit flush is what I'm trying to achieve? So just make sure the bolt for the stab kit is centered on the rail cap holes and then trim from there?
 
I used a wood spade bit the same size as the anti stab shaft dia. to enlarge the rail cap hole. Makes a clean look. Suppose a stepped, vari-bit would work also.
 


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