Torsion spring set up

[HUS457]

Hey group, where does your rear arm sit in reference to your coupling blocks?

Unloaded, my rear arm is just shy of 90 degrees to the ground. Leaning slightly toward the blocks with about a 1&1/2” gap between itself & the blocks. I’m 200-205lbs with no gear. When I sit on the sled with no gear, the rear arm collapses to about a 3/8” gap between itself & the blocks. That is with the cams in position 3. With a 20l linq fuel caddy it’s about 1/8” from the blocks.

I previously had the cams in position 2 but noticed the bump stops on the skid are starting to split from contact with the springs under compression.
Fox QS3 shock in position 2.

Did I notice bottoming out? Yes of course. But we have the only snow in about a 750klm radius so everyone in the Maritime provinces is here and the main trails are beat. So I expected some bottoming out.

What does everyone think? How far should your rear arm be from the blocks when a rider loaded with gear is on the sled? Tx

 

[Simplespeed]

Put your spring adjustors on stiff setting ( most tension ) Remove the plastic blocks around the Aluminum rear bar and install radiator hose to dampen on contact.. You want as much travel out of rear Sissor as you can get. Set your front track spring up so you get maximum travel out of front shock rod but not so loose you lose spring retainer.. Not alot ( maybe a inch of threads ) after adjusting.. by doing this you make use of your entire spring when needed on large moguls. Adjust your front springs so you get maximum travel out of front springs.. Measure Floor to bumper height before sitting on sled. Fully dressed sit on sled, measure Sag and you should not have more than three inches.. After these adjustments take sled out and test and make finer adjustments. Suspension are to each his own.. This set will turn and rail around a corner if you run a good carbide set up…..

 

[Simplespeed]

Take the front bumper of sled and push down hard toward floor and after it bottoms pull up and notice the travel you have.. After adjustments do the same and see what set up gives you the most travel.. Travel without bottoming gives you your best ride but your still have to have your adjustments make the sled turn around a corner.. So after adjustments go test and test and determine your results cause this chassis flat out works and when set up right is a joy to ride..

 

[1nc 2000]

Couple different things here.
Qs3 shocks do need servicing every couple of years. Also nitrogen leaks out of the filler valve.

The center shock and spring also help hold the sled up when doing these type of checks.
If you are bottoming out the center spring under your feet this will also aid with the rear bottoming.
Recommend installing the Cat 160/260 center spring with only 2 to 3 turns of preload on it.
This makes a huge difference to keep from bottoming and the ride is better for all conditions on the trail.

 

[HUS457]

Tx fellas. I’ll have to play around with it. I have snow tracker semis on my stryke’s. Last season I dialled all the preload out of the front ski shocks & then added a turn. Our snow has been dry so far and I notice the sled has been pushing a bit in the turns. Then when it grabs I’ll get some inside ski lift. Harder to tell with eps but I’m thinking I may be overweighted on the fronts?

 

[HUS457]

Put your spring adjustors on stiff setting ( most tension ) Remove the plastic blocks around the Aluminum rear bar and install radiator hose to dampen on contact.. You want as much travel out of rear Sissor as you can get. Set your front track spring up so you get maximum travel out of front shock rod but not so loose you lose spring retainer.. Not alot ( maybe a inch of threads ) after adjusting.. by doing this you make use of your entire spring when needed on large moguls. Adjust your front springs so you get maximum travel out of front springs.. Measure Floor to bumper height before sitting on sled. Fully dressed sit on sled, measure Sag and you should not have more than three inches.. After these adjustments take sled out and test and make finer adjustments. Suspension are to each his own.. This set will turn and rail around a corner if you run a good carbide set up…..

Simplespeed, I just want to make sure I’m understanding, so I should dial out all preload on my centre shock & then add 1 turn approx like I did on the ski shocks?

 

[1nc 2000]

You will bottom out all the time with the center spring that loose.

 

[STAIN]

Your suspension "sag" is what you need to concentrate on .
Lift the back of the sled off the ground and set down. Pick a spot to measure height from and record it. Fully compress the rear skid and re-measure. Again, pick up the rear of the sled and set it back down. Now sit on the sled and remeasure. That is your "sag"
Your sag should be roughly 1/3 of you first measurement. Adjust springs accordingly. Dont be afraid of running the springs at 2 different settings. I run mine at 1, and when we saddlebag I only move 1 side to 2.
Remember, springs hold the sled up, not the shocks. That said, the shocks may need a rebuild.
Also remember, that fuel caddy out on the end of the tunnel is really leveraging the suspension.
This is a handy quick guide---https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1208/6906/files/Setting_Ride_Height-min.pdf?10699155368412448410

 

[Kevin]

You will bottom out all the time with the center spring that loose.

I loosened my front spring 4 turns in the hunt for more ski pressure. 4 way blocks on # 4 and bottoming out sometimes. Guess I need to go on a diet

 

[1nc 2000]

Well, I'm 220, 3.3 gallons of gas on back of tunnel, saddle bags.
Qs3 shocks set on medium.
Rear torsion on soft
Heavier center spring adjusted to my liking and love the ride for trail riding.
Steel Barn of parts center shock lower cross shaft.
Tunnel reinforcement at front skid mount and heavier cross shaft.
I have hygear dual rate up front and have tried their setting then kept going stiffer a turn at a time until I didn't bottom in the big hits.
Also racewerx coupler block set on position 2.
Sled has good transfer and goes thru the rough without bottoming.

 

[1nc 2000]

Guys in the first post he states his rear springs are already on position 3 and he is bottoming out.

 

[maim]

i would service the shocks 1st and then take it for a ride. if it is still bottoming, you most likely need the next rate of spring heavier.

 

[Simplespeed]

Simplespeed, I just want to make sure I’m understanding, so I should dial out all preload on my centre shock & then add 1 turn approx like I did on the ski shocks?

Let me get you a picture of front shock set up.. no not all preload, but adjusted so you don’t wheelie.. I will get back to you tomorrow as Iam not near my sleds….