Track clip came off blew apart going wide open on lake, pics

[the Wolfman]

Hope you make out alright with the repairs, and good that you are alright.
Here's my CSI imitation.
We've had 3 sleds do the same thing to the track, all due to a heavy hit on the lake ( ice ridge , ice fishing plug or just plain rough frozen slush) first off comes the snubber at the front of the rail, usually shearing off the slider hold screw ( I noticed both parts missing on yours) and then not too much later another hit to the track, the rail hits spears the clip bars, ripping the track to shreds, kicking the slider off and massive deceleration that causes the roll over. Was the lake really rough when it happened?
It's a good idea to check the snubbers once in awhile, and I'd bet 4 out of 10 guys that check will find them loose, and a few will find one missing.
It's about the only thing that do that to a track.

 

[ApexDriller]

Hope you make out alright with the repairs, and good that you are alright.
Here's my CSI imitation.
We've had 3 sleds do the same thing to the track, all due to a heavy hit on the lake ( ice ridge , ice fishing plug or just plain rough frozen slush) first off comes the snubber at the front of the rail, usually shearing off the slider hold screw ( I noticed both parts missing on yours) and then not too much later another hit to the track, the rail hits spears the clip bars, ripping the track to shreds, kicking the slider off and massive deceleration that causes the roll over. Was the lake really rough when it happened?
It's a good idea to check the snubbers once in awhile, and I'd bet 4 out of 10 guys that check will find them loose, and a few will find one missing.
It's about the only thing that do that to a track.

Lake was rough but soft wet snow, bare in spots, +10 celsius, I was given er, I admit but I always ride that speed cause the machine can take it imo (maybe change my mind on that a bit). I bought it to giver. Only 1 or 2 scratches on tank cover from handlebar bent up against it. I straightened it first thing by hand to where it is now, I will replace bars but all else is good, works, starts good, all good that way. Rails, limiter strap and spacer nfg, too as expected.

And as far as checking those caps on the rails, I recently put them back on this past fall, had whole thing apart, serviced the Ohlins EC, put it back together, 650 miles later, whamo. I riveted them and filled them with silicone but they were used, same sliders too, I just trimmed them up a bit too match, thought it was good enough. Other guys I rode with were sticking to their sliders,when we stopped for a break. Maybe they got hot and melted up/wore out. Hard to know, couldnt find pieces of them.

Looking for a 1 5/8 , moulded studs ??

Pretty much bang on with CSI report.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

I speared my track one time with one of my SRX's. I was flying down the lake one spring doing around 170km/hr. I slowed down to turn around and wham the track speared. One of the end caps from the rail had come out. They were only riveted on so when I replaced the caps, I re-installed with a bolt. I can't imagine what would have happened if I was going wide open.

 

[chiefsledhead]

Not critizing, but whenever a part breaks or something happens, you ususally look at what happened just prior to the "break". You said you tightened the track yesterday, could you have tightened it too much??? Or unevenly??I know they stretch, but i have only tightened mine twice in 10000 miles and it shows no evidence of tearing. I run mine as loose as possible without it ratchiting Just my $.02.
I am glad you are okay, and BTW, they make parts everyday.( for all kinds of sleds)

 

[Shiek]

pict

Hope you noticed your w-arm is broke also

 

[biffdotorg]

So should those end-caps be bolted or riveted? Mine are riveted and I think in the Yamaha parts page it shows rivets in the end of each rail holding those caps on. Is that not sufficient? Or is a bolt with loctite a better solution?

 

[YammyRX1]

So should those end-caps be bolted or riveted? Mine are riveted and I think in the Yamaha parts page it shows rivets in the end of each rail holding those caps on. Is that not sufficient? Or is a bolt with loctite a better solution?

I filled them with silicone to make them snug and used a bolt and nut with Loctite. I got that from a thread that Rockerdan posted with some other upgrades:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... light=mono

 

[ViperTurboPete]

The rivets eventually loosen....which eventually has the potential to fall out. So, I am not taking any more chances. I bolt mine on with lockwashers and loctite.

 

[sleddog66]

Anti-stabs will prevent this

 

[kbrandt]

Did you need to have your track quite tight so it did not ratchet? Just wondering if this could have been part of the problem or not. I have the same sled and I can't believe how tight I need to keep my track so it does not ratchet at take off. Also wondering how you liked or disliked the clutch kit you put in? I installed a power programmer 3 and have been very happy with the performance gains, now looking for clutching ideas.

KB

 

[darv]

My brother in law had the same thing happen to him hope you are ok

 

[yamahatd]

I had the track blow of my RTX at 110mph on a rail bed, thank goodness is was a strait run. I thought I blew a belt until untilIi grabbed the brake and nothing happened. No rolling or crash, just a lot of damage under the tunnel. the track only had 1500mi. It was a pre-drilled ripsaw with 144 down the middle. The RTX skid rubbing on the inside is whatIi blame this on, Yamaha thought different.

The damage was, front heat exchanger, muffler, headers(OK, but scratched), rear tunnel damage and snow flap. I swapped the skid for a used M-20 136 Airwave and so far so good. Total cost of damage $2800 and I did the work myself

 

[ApexDriller]

Did you need to have your track quite tight so it did not ratchet? Just wondering if this could have been part of the problem or not. I have the same sled and I can't believe how tight I need to keep my track so it does not ratchet at take off. Also wondering how you liked or disliked the clutch kit you put in? I installed a power programmer 3 and have been very happy with the performance gains, now looking for clutching ideas.



KB

Yeah the track seemed to stretch more than normal, I had to tighten as well not to ratchet. Clutching seemed to work fine, higher rpm, power is always there. Going back to stock. I never drove it a mile with stock springs, weights and helix. Should be a new ride after zx2 and new track and 3 grand, lol...im thinking 1 5/8" x 144" x 15" (if I can find one) for track, throw in a new driveshaft with anti-ratchet sprockets while I got it apart....

 

[APEX 06]

Anti-stabs will prevent this

X2