Nice Rumble
Expert
Anyone buy and install the Ulmer Track Rub Eliminator Kit? I haven't had any issues with rubbing on the shock and no studs in the middle of the track. However, if I do look closely at the track I can see two small parallel barely visable lines where the track has lightly touched the rounded shock mount. I just figured it's cheap insurance in protecting a very expensive part now that there is no longer a warranty.
How hard to do the install and how did you do it? Torque settings on the bolt?
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Acc.htm
How hard to do the install and how did you do it? Torque settings on the bolt?
http://www.ulmerracing.com/Acc.htm
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
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- USA
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- 2014 Yamaha SR Viper LTX, 2014 Yamaha SR Viper RTX SE, 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 162 (turbo), 2015 Yamaha SR Viper MTX SE 153
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TurboTime
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Nice Rumble; I just installed one a couple of days ago. We'll worth the $ for the protection, especially if you run studs up the middle. Easy to install, just make sure when pulling out the bolt you insert the one provided by Ulmer at the same time so the shock does not get a chance to move out of place making for a tougher job. Make sure the brass inserts are facing the shock.
GL,
Kevin
GL,
Kevin
Nice Rumble
Expert
Thanks Kevin. I'll order one today. Murphy's law, if it can, it will.
TurboTime
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
NR:
To Install: Use a sled lift, jackstand, etc to lift the rear of the suspension barely off the ground so the shock is fully extended has very little weight on it. Remove the bolt and insert the Ulmer bolt at the same time, install the track rub kit. The brass collar on each wheel goes against the shock mount.
To Install: Use a sled lift, jackstand, etc to lift the rear of the suspension barely off the ground so the shock is fully extended has very little weight on it. Remove the bolt and insert the Ulmer bolt at the same time, install the track rub kit. The brass collar on each wheel goes against the shock mount.
Bigger Hammer
Extreme
Does anyone know if the this would be needed on an 07 attak w/studs and what it costs ?
Nice Rumble
Expert
I think the Attak has rubbing blocks already installed. The Apex does not.
Cost is $25 plus shipping.
Thread here:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=rubbing
Cost is $25 plus shipping.
Thread here:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=rubbing
Kit install
I have a kit from Allen, and after looking into installing the kit w/o pulling the skid, I have decided to pull the skid-I tried getting the shock bolt/nut loose as it is in the sled, but it is very tight(maybe the shop guy over-tightened it?) so rather than risk rounding off the bolt or nut, I will do it the hard way, as I hear it is easy to remove the skid anyways.
I have a kit from Allen, and after looking into installing the kit w/o pulling the skid, I have decided to pull the skid-I tried getting the shock bolt/nut loose as it is in the sled, but it is very tight(maybe the shop guy over-tightened it?) so rather than risk rounding off the bolt or nut, I will do it the hard way, as I hear it is easy to remove the skid anyways.
Nice Rumble
Expert
I did the install today and you don't need to remove the skid. That's overkill. Use a breaker bar to loosen the nut, 14mm. Just raise the rear of the machine with a racing stand or sled lift.
Then use a jack to play with the height of the track to the point where the bolt becomes fairly loose. I had to rotate the shock by hand to take tension off the bolt. Insert the new bolt as the old bolt is being removed to keep the shock in place. Place opposite bearing on bolt as soon as it comes out other side as the track get's in the way if you wait before installing nut. New bolt with 17mm head. Re-use OEM nut.
I took Srxspec's advice. He's right.
"On mine, it helped to unbolt the back mount on the transfer rod as well. This gave me a little more play to take the shock bolt out and back in."
I applied some blue thread lock and tightened down. No torque values were listed anywhere as there are no instructions.
Looks like a good set up and no worries of track doing damage to shock. Without it you would not know of the damage until it's too late. Cheap insurance.
Then use a jack to play with the height of the track to the point where the bolt becomes fairly loose. I had to rotate the shock by hand to take tension off the bolt. Insert the new bolt as the old bolt is being removed to keep the shock in place. Place opposite bearing on bolt as soon as it comes out other side as the track get's in the way if you wait before installing nut. New bolt with 17mm head. Re-use OEM nut.
I took Srxspec's advice. He's right.
"On mine, it helped to unbolt the back mount on the transfer rod as well. This gave me a little more play to take the shock bolt out and back in."
I applied some blue thread lock and tightened down. No torque values were listed anywhere as there are no instructions.
Looks like a good set up and no worries of track doing damage to shock. Without it you would not know of the damage until it's too late. Cheap insurance.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
i thought the attak had those anti-rub pads already
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Expert
Look at my avatar.
Won't that 17mm head rub on the track drive lugs it's alful tight with the 14mm
tsiceman said:
I have an 03 and installed the kit, had to use a washer between the bearing and the shockmount otherwise the bearing would'nt turn once tightened. This put both the bolt head and nut 1/16 of an inch further out so i thought the same thing. However once i got the track aligned properly the lugs barely touched. I talked to Allen about this and he explained that the track actually raises up under power so the only time it will possibly touch is when going real slow or backing up. Also put a set on the wifes 05 and they don't touch at all.
My biggest concern was i ran out of threads for the nut, the bolt is about 1/16th of an inch too short with the washers hoping that won't be a problem, plan to keep a close eye on it for a while.
Nice Rumble
Expert
tsiceman said:
Look how far the head is from the top of the bearing.
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