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Transfer blocks

I tried leaving just the transfer rod without the blocks, it started to bend the metal bumpers on the H frame where they usually hit the plastic on the transfer rods. I also tried thinner material on the rod but it did not last. So I took the rod completely off and did not like the noise it made (banging)coming out of the hole. So I put it back on and just leave it on thinnest setting.
Then again I just trail ride and just love beating on all sleds.
Yes there is a noticeable difference when rod was off!
 

31cccat said:
Usually tightest or drill out where it works best. Depends on conditions obviously and rider size
Click to expand...
That's what I figured, pull the limiters tight, take out the blocks and shaft, she'll transfer like a mofo, yet keep the skis down and probably gain top end because your approach angle will be improved.
 
1100saber said:
not to get off topic, but I wouldn't agree that there is no benefit to having better track angles...especially if radar running, top speed on ice is the game. Larger drivers, and large rear wheels make for less rolling resistance.
Click to expand...


Have you tested them? If you haven't I suggest you do to before claiming a gain. If you want better track angles just sack out the suspension. You are far better off doing this than changing wheel size most of the time. I have however seen case where machines run faster when in the air too. You always need to test the theory on the machines in the conditions they will get run in.

I have done the testing on the same day at the drag strip on timers. Larger front drivers (yes, I adjusted to have the same ratio) actually robbed a very slight bit of ET. IMO I prefer to run smaller front drives for a lower final drive ratio at the track while adjusting gearcase for speed to be run.

Adjusting back wheel size to a 1" larger wheel did nothing for speed or et either way. I could not test this during the same day however as I need to move the wheel up on the rail to keep all wheels on the same contact plane. Testing was done one day apart at the strip with similar temps and corrected altitude.

I tested this wheel size and front drive size stuff on my 700 Improver, on my 1000 Improver and my 800 Pro-Stock drag sled that would outrun all the 1000 Pro-Stock sleds for years. This testing was done in 1/4 mile runs on Asphalt and 660 for on the ice at speeds just under 150 MPH, my 1000 Pro-Stocker did run just shy of 160 MPH in 1/4 mile all using small rear wheels and small 10 tooth 2.52" front drives. I saw absolutely ZERO gains using larger rear wheels and actually a slight decrease in performance going to larger front drivers, so you will never make me a believer.

I have many ET and speed records that still stand to this day NOT using large wheels and drivers so I get a kick out of the people that think they have to switch to them or insist that they work for a performance gain, because they did nothing for me when I tested those theories at speeds up to 160 MPH drag racing on ice and asphalt. I would also go speed running at the end of the drag season and set NSSR speed records as well. So the small wheels and drivers certainly don't seem to be to hurting things too bad there either.

The theory that larger wheels and front drives are more efficient comes from the aftermarket trying to sell you stuff you do not need IMO.
 
KnappAttack said:
Have you tested them? If you haven't I suggest you do to before claiming a gain. If you want better track angles just sack out the suspension. You are far better off doing this than changing wheel size most of the time. I have however seen case where machines run faster when in the air too. You always need to test the theory on the machines in the conditions they will get run in.

I have done the testing on the same day at the drag strip on timers. Larger front drivers (yes, I adjusted to have the same ratio) actually robbed a very slight bit of ET. IMO I prefer to run smaller front drives for a lower final drive ratio at the track while adjusting gearcase for speed to be run.

Adjusting back wheel size to a 1" larger wheel did nothing for speed or et either way. I could not test this during the same day however as I need to move the wheel up on the rail to keep all wheels on the same contact plane. Testing was done one day apart at the strip with similar temps and corrected altitude.

I tested this wheel size and front drive size stuff on my 700 Improver, on my 1000 Improver and my 800 Pro-Stock drag sled that would outrun all the 1000 Pro-Stock sleds for years. This testing was done in 1/4 mile runs on Asphalt and 660 for on the ice at speeds just under 150 MPH, my 1000 Pro-Stocker did run just shy of 160 MPH in 1/4 mile all using small rear wheels and small 10 tooth 2.52" front drives. I saw absolutely ZERO gains using larger rear wheels and actually a slight decrease in performance going to larger front drivers, so you will never make me a believer.

I have many ET and speed records that still stand to this day NOT using large wheels and drivers so I get a kick out of the people that think they have to switch to them or insist that they work for a performance gain, because they did nothing for me when I tested those theories at speeds up to 160 MPH drag racing on ice and asphalt. I would also go speed running at the end of the drag season and set NSSR speed records as well. So the small wheels and drivers certainly don't seem to be to hurting things too bad there either.

The theory that larger wheels and front drives are more efficient comes from the aftermarket trying to sell you stuff you do not need IMO.
Click to expand...
Good real world testing info.......thanks for sharing
 
I like having the transfer blocks for trail riding. The 137's are set up pretty bad stock. I have sent my shocks out to Hygear and they soften the rear so the suspension actually works and can be adjusted. Cat claims the torsions in setting one are for a 180-200 lb rider. More like 280-300 IMHO. Hygear says the center valuing is pretty good so I will just add a dual rate spring to help the sharp hits.
 
I also agree with Mike but he is talking race sleds. Once you are slammed I don't think wheel or driver size matters much. For trail you have to be careful going too big on the drivers, once they hang out of the chassis they will take bigger hits and you can bend a drive shaft. Big rear wheels are a joke, never worked. If the wheel pushes the track away from the rail it will slow you down. Grass and ice require different set ups but suffice it to say all the wheels need to be on the same plane in relation to the rails.
 
I see there are definitely two maybe three types of racing going on here.
For me, I'm a trail guy looking for a little advantage in transfer when I need it.

What about softer torsion springs and/or rear shock with compression settimg? Full soft when I need it?

IDK.....
 
krm said:
With the JT 4 wheel kit you can't .You''ll hit the wheels .
Click to expand...

I never hit the wheels with my J&t kit.... have you? I rode my viper 3000 miles with the block out. And i pretty much wheelie at every chance. Lol just saying. Oh and im a big guy fully squat that 137” too.
 
krm said:
With the JT 4 wheel kit you can't .You''ll hit the wheels .
Click to expand...

I never hit the wheels with my J&t kit.... have you? I rode my viper 3000 miles with the block out. And i pretty much wheelie at every chance. Lol just saying. Oh and im a big guy fully squat that 137” too.
 
jtmetal said:
I see there are definitely two maybe three types of racing going on here.
For me, I'm a trail guy looking for a little advantage in transfer when I need it.

What about softer torsion springs and/or rear shock with compression settimg? Full soft when I need it?

IDK.....
Click to expand...


Softer torsion springs help, quite a bit.
 
NYTurbo said:
Softer torsion springs help, quite a bit.
Click to expand...

Unless I'm missing something... there ate no softer torsion available
.. even from cat... what hygear is doing is bending the short leg to delay outs contact with the block thereby reducing pre load... if anyone has the softer spring from cat that would be great less than 16.5 lbs
 
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