Never Satisfied
Pro
I used to take the black blocks out and sand them down thin on setting #1. Then you can put them in and have more contact area. You can also move the shaft down and back. Did that on a couple sleds before I started making the shocks better. Drill another hole 1/4" away from the stock hole and it makes a big difference.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
I'll give this a go. Wish I had a sander. Hmm.....
On trick to these things is to just tighten the bolts for shaft lightly then jump on back to force scissor into the blocks or rod.This positions the flat to the flat of scissor. Better yet is to have a big buddy sit on bumper doing the same and tighten the shaft bolts. If its not perfectly flat to flat the blocks will break or if no blocks will damage the arm.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Ok, what about this. Front skid shock. Spring has zero preload. I cannot loosen collar to adjust spring.
1) Tried spanner to loosen up. Nothing.
2)Hammer & screwdriver to chisel it loose. Nada.
Suggestions??
1) Tried spanner to loosen up. Nothing.
2)Hammer & screwdriver to chisel it loose. Nada.
Suggestions??
boostfever
Veteran
If the little mark on the upper ring is from the hammer and chisel, then you are hitting the wrong ring, not trying to be a smart #*$&@, just appears that was the one being hit.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Bottom collar to the left. Top. Collar to the right. Just to break it loose. Is that right?
NYTurbo
TY 4 Stroke God
Loosen the bottom collar first.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
Ok.....I'll tap it on the left. I'll try a squirt of something. It's obvious I didn't beat anything up. I was like tap tap tap. Nothing. Then went to top, tap tap tap nothing.
Last edited:
The factory cranks the living snot out of those. Big hammer and a nice piece of aluminum does least damage. Big Screwdriver and big hammer does trick too but will nick it. By now you probably don't care though. Hit it like you mean it! One nick is better than many.
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Its kinda like when you double nut something, best to spin both at the same time, in opposit directions. Even with the spanner wrenches, its hard to do while in the chassis. Soak them down with something, try to have someone else hold one, while you WHACK the other.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
I won that battle......
I think I'm better at riding them than I am at working on them. But not by much. Lol!
I think I'm better at riding them than I am at working on them. But not by much. Lol!
harbor freight ...cheap and good enough
JT, just wondering what you torqued the studs at.....and if you have hit them again since installing? reason i ask is it doesn't look like they are seated very deep as is. Get them seated a little more and you'll get that much more penetration.
Doc Harley
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2016
- Messages
- 3,711
- Age
- 56
- Location
- Here & there
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- '17 Sidewinder LTX SE
I'm glad you asked b4 I buttoned things up. Lol! How do you feel about 35in lbs? Nylon backers.
35 lbs sounds high if you're using Aluminum big nuts. I think 15 lbs is recommended. I hit mine again after each of the first 2/3 rides. I realize there's no snow, but even hitting them after the rubber has had a chance to compress will make a difference.
