Transfer blocks

[NYTurbo]

Going by what my dealer said, possibly he is incorrect. Says there is 3 springs and the installed is the medium one.. buddy of mine bends his but it sits to low afterwards for my liking but it does transfer better.

 

[Doc Harley]

Guys with blocks & rod completely removed. How does that work? When it scissors back, what stops it?

 

[Never Satisfied]

I never hit the wheels with my J&t kit.... have you? I rode my viper 3000 miles with the block out. And i pretty much wheelie at every chance. Lol just saying. Oh and im a big guy fully squat that 137” too.

Exactly, with the blocks out it should be out of control, especially if you are a big guy. Too much compression valving and too much spring in the 137. I did put some softer torsions in my wife's 7000, Hygear directed me to them a couple years ago, made it tolerable for her but we have a 2 up kit on there with a kid most of the time. Before that when they both got one there was no sag at all. That is not how a suspension should work.

 

[**sj**]

Supposedly 14 and up had a suspension change... the scissor was pre loaded before and the torsion spring 18.5 lbs... after to now... scissor is straight up and comes already with what used to be the lighter spring at 16.5 lbs..... if there's a lighter spring yet I'd love to know what it is but am not encouraged after country cat checked for me...

 

[Doc Harley]

Sj, I didn't check as of today but im sure hygear will make anything? I checked their site. Like $165.us for a set.
I'll call them on Monday.

 

[**sj**]

Yes

Sj, I didn't check as of today but im sure hygear will make anything? I checked their site. Like $165.us for a set.
I'll call them on Monday.

Yes... they will... I'm hoping to find a unmodded factory spring

 

[1100saber]

Have you tested them? If you haven't I suggest you do to before claiming a gain. If you want better track angles just sack out the suspension. You are far better off doing this than changing wheel size most of the time. I have however seen case where machines run faster when in the air too. You always need to test the theory on the machines in the conditions they will get run in.

I have done the testing on the same day at the drag strip on timers. Larger front drivers (yes, I adjusted to have the same ratio) actually robbed a very slight bit of ET. IMO I prefer to run smaller front drives for a lower final drive ratio at the track while adjusting gearcase for speed to be run.

Adjusting back wheel size to a 1" larger wheel did nothing for speed or et either way. I could not test this during the same day however as I need to move the wheel up on the rail to keep all wheels on the same contact plane. Testing was done one day apart at the strip with similar temps and corrected altitude.

I tested this wheel size and front drive size stuff on my 700 Improver, on my 1000 Improver and my 800 Pro-Stock drag sled that would outrun all the 1000 Pro-Stock sleds for years. This testing was done in 1/4 mile runs on Asphalt and 660 for on the ice at speeds just under 150 MPH, my 1000 Pro-Stocker did run just shy of 160 MPH in 1/4 mile all using small rear wheels and small 10 tooth 2.52" front drives. I saw absolutely ZERO gains using larger rear wheels and actually a slight decrease in performance going to larger front drivers, so you will never make me a believer.

I have many ET and speed records that still stand to this day NOT using large wheels and drivers so I get a kick out of the people that think they have to switch to them or insist that they work for a performance gain, because they did nothing for me when I tested those theories at speeds up to 160 MPH drag racing on ice and asphalt. I would also go speed running at the end of the drag season and set NSSR speed records as well. So the small wheels and drivers certainly don't seem to be to hurting things too bad there either.

The theory that larger wheels and front drives are more efficient comes from the aftermarket trying to sell you stuff you do not need IMO.

Thanks for that. Large rear idler wheels do look good. So do the 22”’s on my truck.

 

[Doc Harley]

Thanks for that. Large rear idler wheels do look good. So do the 22”’s on my truck.

22's huh....anyway... Check this pic out.

 

[Doc Harley]

So I strapped the back down to line things up. Yuck! I don't see this being awesome. Barely hitting the rod?

 

[geez150]

What if you take the rod out and then strap it down to see how things look? Too bad there wasn't more "meat" on the rails to drill new holes and relocate the rod and blocks.

 

[Doc Harley]

Well......I guess I'm not the only one running around like that. Doesn't seem to bother anyone else.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Well......I guess I'm not the only one running around like that. Doesn't seem to bother anyone else.

I ran all last season like that, no issues whatsoever, thinking about pulling the shaft as well for this year.

 

[Doc Harley]

I ran all last season like that, no issues whatsoever, thinking about pulling the shaft as well for this year.

I'm following DMCTurbo......

I think guys running loose snow and hard pack vs guys running on ice are two totally different set ups? Am I mistaken?

Also pulling the strap as tight as possible.....IDK??? How does that effect trail riding?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Take the rod out but don’t pull the front limiters tight. You don’t have enough studs for that. If you strap the limiters tight it will unload the front of the track off the ice and spin. you can only do that if your running alot more picks or chisels. Turn down your rear skid spring and ski springs, but leave the front skid spring turned up.
With the amount of studs you have it probably still will spin, but it’s worth a try.
This setup is for running on the ice, I wouldn’t trail ride it.

 

[DMCTurbo]

I'm following DMCTurbo......

I think guys running loose snow and hard pack vs guys running on ice are two totally different set ups? Am I mistaken?

Also pulling the strap as tight as possible.....IDK??? How does that effect trail riding?

Like clutch master said. I'm going to test with the rod in and out, I'm expecting to have to tighten the straps some with the rod out. I removed the rod on my nytro rtx and it transferred awesome but I had to adjust my limiters to keep the skis down. It's all about testing testing testing.