mbarryracing
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2006 Yamaha Attak Turbo
2015 SR Viper RTX-DX
1996 Vmax 600XT
Do they take up more thickness, do you have to compensate on your overall rod length setting?
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
Just ride faster and that noise will disappear
j/k Good write up. Do us a favor and spot check the grommets after 1500 miles or so, and report back.
j/k Good write up. Do us a favor and spot check the grommets after 1500 miles or so, and report back.
Rappa
Veteran
mbarryracing said:Do they take up more thickness, do you have to compensate on your overall rod length setting?
Yes they take up slightly more thickness but I think that they will compress and have more "give" so it's probably the same.
I would never compensate my rod length...
RacerDave
Expert
I agree with Dan. Great idea, but I think it will become a maintenace issue with say 500-1,000 miles. Hope I'm wrong and you say so next season.
timc
Extreme
I made this mod last Summer on advise from someone @ TY who had made this fix. It worked great. Clunking was 100% gone. After 1500 miles this year, it's back. However, it's easy to do and I'd rather do it again than listen to and feel the "clunk".
TimC
TimC
tttario
Expert
This seems to be more prevelent on Attak's than Apex's. Longer track must be the culprit throwing off geometry on the sharp bumps.
Is the Attak skid just an extended Apex skid or are the mounting points located differently?
Is the Attak skid just an extended Apex skid or are the mounting points located differently?
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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ttt
RacerDave
Expert
It was one of the first odd noises I heard on my Apex, @ 20 miles.
SledFreak
TY 4 Stroke God
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- Current 2020 ThunderCat. - SOLD!
Anyone see what happens when you leave those bushings out. More weight transfer?
FX4
Newbie
have taken a 2006 and 2008 transfer rod apart 2008 has new softer rubber bushings that help with the clunking will fit in to the 2006 2007
just order three from your local dealer 8gm473840000
just order three from your local dealer 8gm473840000
SumpBuster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 18 sidewinder; 06 Apex RTX
Good thinking..I put some rubber 'shims' made from Power company matting or tractor tire tube....can't remember, along with the original washers...they got rid of most of it, but the real solution is to pick up the pace so the suspension doesn't want to 'rock'..that's when it clunks. At faster speeds, the whole suspension moves up and down as one unit...and works very well. Those little stutters are where these things shine..if you can crank it up, do so..very quiet except for face cracking grins..lol
And anthing thicker in there will change when it couples. It has to.
And anthing thicker in there will change when it couples. It has to.
graphics1988
Newbie
transfer rod - aftermarket
I know this original post is old (if 3 weeks is considered old)...but i have an 08 APex GT 40th, and when i first got the sled, i thoguht it was gonna fall apart from all the noise!....It bangs and crashes at all speeds for me, if i hit a 3 or 4 section of 2 foot bumps, and I hit it at any speed (even 80-90mph) it smashes and bangs thru the whole section. I thought about adding the O-rings before, but i "think" Bender has an aftermarket transfer rod that works like a charm....If i remember correct. I know its a "simple" fix doing the O-ring change and its cheap. (and a good idea)...its just a shame we all spend so much coin on a sled that needs to constantly be "fixed". My front bushing on my A-arms are all shot too!, i know its warranty (but i'm bringing the Nylatron bushings from Pioneer) when i tell the dealership to replace them.....that doesn't look like a fun job!....anyway, good post...cheers
I know this original post is old (if 3 weeks is considered old)...but i have an 08 APex GT 40th, and when i first got the sled, i thoguht it was gonna fall apart from all the noise!....It bangs and crashes at all speeds for me, if i hit a 3 or 4 section of 2 foot bumps, and I hit it at any speed (even 80-90mph) it smashes and bangs thru the whole section. I thought about adding the O-rings before, but i "think" Bender has an aftermarket transfer rod that works like a charm....If i remember correct. I know its a "simple" fix doing the O-ring change and its cheap. (and a good idea)...its just a shame we all spend so much coin on a sled that needs to constantly be "fixed". My front bushing on my A-arms are all shot too!, i know its warranty (but i'm bringing the Nylatron bushings from Pioneer) when i tell the dealership to replace them.....that doesn't look like a fun job!....anyway, good post...cheers
rock doc
VIP Member
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- 2018 Sidewinder XTX SE. Previous 2011 Nytro xtx, 2016 Apex GT, 1998 Polaris Indy 600 xlt
bender after market transfer rod??
Is there an aftermarket transfer rod available?
Is there an aftermarket transfer rod available?
graphics1988
Newbie
yup, heres the transfer rod....i will look for the article
TS3 Transfer Adjustment System from Bender Racing, i think its $170 bucks, i will look for the article on it...it sounded great!
TS3 Transfer Adjustment System from Bender Racing, i think its $170 bucks, i will look for the article on it...it sounded great!
rapeape
Expert
Though I have no problems with the clunking, this post has got me thinking of a repair.
I think that those light duty rubber grommets used to fix the noise will disintegrate in a few hundred miles and you'll be back to square 1.
Would it be possible to put in a solid bar instead of the transfer rod? If not, why?
Thanks
Kevin
I think that those light duty rubber grommets used to fix the noise will disintegrate in a few hundred miles and you'll be back to square 1.
Would it be possible to put in a solid bar instead of the transfer rod? If not, why?
Thanks
Kevin
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