fordtech831
Newbie
06 nytro er, having issues. No studs, just changed factory carbides to snow studs brand sport series 4 inchers, havent played with the float settings, they are at 80 psi.........the rear of the sled is all over, ski float on inside ski is real bad, rear spring is at medium and shock is in the middle of the click settings........any tips? I have to experiment, I know, but is there any general ballpark setting to start with? Any help is appreciated.
BonelNytro
Pro
turn your front shocks down to 65 psi first of all thats pretty stiff.
fordtech831
Newbie
Thank you, this is all new to me..........love the powerplant, and the way the sled is layed out, it just seems to "fit"........I realize that you cant make 15 changes at once and expect to know which worked and which didnt.
TrailxRider
Expert
BonelNytro said:
Agree. I changed mine from 75psi to 55-60 range or until my front bars were parallel and it made a huge difference in tippyness for me.
I put my rear on soft since I'm only 160 lbs and I may put it to med if I start to bottom it out but hadn't yet. I turned the rear clicker 10 clicks to the left and that softened it up a little more. My sled still pushes in the corners unless I goose the throttle. Strill trying to fix that though.
theCATman
TY 4 Stroke Master
I got my Nytro at the end of last season & finally got it dialed in decent.
THE #1 thing you can do is to adjust the transfer rods nuts all the way up. This will stop the sled from throwing all that torque back & unloading the skis. Unthread the top one all the way off & then back onto the threads so that it's only on about 3 threads & then bring up the bottom/jam nut and lock them together TIGHT!!
2. new 10" single carbides
3. Floats at 55 PSI (this HAS to be set with the front end off the ground)
4. Limiter straps tightened 1 hole from loosest
5. Front track shock at zero preload (with track off ground)
6. Rear springs are for ride height mainly. They do firm or soften the skid some, but adjusting the clicker does more for hard/soft settings.
7. I personally have my clicker at 8 clicks from full hard (all the way screwed in) & the spring blocks at Medium setting. The rear end will still bottom off nasty g-outs & higher jumps, but that's the nature of the beast with this skid from what I've read & experienced.
These are my personal settings, others I'm sure are a little different, but I too had a very $hitty handling Nytro until I did these changes.
By the way, I weigh 200 lbs. with gear
THE #1 thing you can do is to adjust the transfer rods nuts all the way up. This will stop the sled from throwing all that torque back & unloading the skis. Unthread the top one all the way off & then back onto the threads so that it's only on about 3 threads & then bring up the bottom/jam nut and lock them together TIGHT!!
2. new 10" single carbides
3. Floats at 55 PSI (this HAS to be set with the front end off the ground)
4. Limiter straps tightened 1 hole from loosest
5. Front track shock at zero preload (with track off ground)
6. Rear springs are for ride height mainly. They do firm or soften the skid some, but adjusting the clicker does more for hard/soft settings.
7. I personally have my clicker at 8 clicks from full hard (all the way screwed in) & the spring blocks at Medium setting. The rear end will still bottom off nasty g-outs & higher jumps, but that's the nature of the beast with this skid from what I've read & experienced.
These are my personal settings, others I'm sure are a little different, but I too had a very $hitty handling Nytro until I did these changes.
By the way, I weigh 200 lbs. with gear
Yeller
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
With dropping the pressure in the floats to where the a-arms are sitting parallel to the ground, are you guys bottoming out the front end on rough trails?
srt20
Extreme
I go a good 250lbs with gear on. Floats are at 40-45psi. I have yet to bottom out the floats with small jumping even. The rear suspension on the other hand, is crap.
TrailxRider
Expert
rik said:
not yet but I don't have many miles on my sled and hadn't pushed it much yet so I haven't hit any big bumps to really test it.
Angus viper
Pro
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2007
- Messages
- 150
- Age
- 51
- Location
- SW Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2015 sr viper se
i'm running 60 psi (a-arms parallel)! i'm 280lbs without gear & i have hit both big and small bumps! the fox floats work great hav'nt bottomed them out yet! they also seem to handle the corners a bit better at this psi! i'm still working on the rear skid! this my be a little more of a challange! but need more SNOW to get it dialed in!
BlkNytro
Expert
I run around 80 psi
easy sleder
Extreme
Running floats at 55 psi, 13 mm swaybar on snowtrackers, sled rocks 
easy
easy
fordtech831
Newbie
Thanks for all the help everyone!, Dropping the floats to 55 psi worked wonders, and as for the rear, the spring is at medium, I am adjusting the clicker as I go, and the transfer rods havent been touched yet..........I really appreciate all the help and will keep you posted on the other changes too. Thanks again, what a difference!
