tuner 3 skis

[WVTurboLTX]

I have tuners with snow trackers , and are very good , with NO darting also .

My tuners never darted. The reason I don't like them is how bad they push in loose conditions.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Well i'm gonna ride it to see what happens, then adjust accordingly. I know we're all super excited, but this sled is not a Viper or a 9000. It's heavier up front than Viper & distributed different than 9000. Different shocks, different geometry, snappier so front lifts quicker. I have a set of Pilots, but those push bad in any amount of powder. I HOPE these ski's are close. I'll be almost $17,000 win BEFORE winter & the guy on my left shoulder is getting nervous. I might be better with a CRACK addiction compared to this snowmobile addiction I have...but then again, i don't think they have a CRACK forum that's as fun as this TTY...

 

[Sledroll]

What about deeper snow...I'm thinking it sinks like a rock..

I don't do a lot of deeper snow riding , but when I break some trail at the beginning of the season , it is really not an issue , as the 144 seems to keep me up and going on the Apex XTX , so the weight must be more to the middle of the sled .

 

[Sledroll]

My tuners never darted. The reason I don't like them is how bad they push in loose conditions.

Don't all skis push in loose ?
What do you think is the real difference why some are better than others ,as it doesn't seem to be the height of the keel , as the tallest keel skis are not the best .
Is it the positioning of where the spindle attaches , and how much keel is in front or behind that point ?
And what seems to make a difference is the weight transfer and skis lift .
But if you are switching skis on a sled the weight transfer and skis lift should be a constant , unless the height of the spindle bolt is a couple inches different .

Why do people rave about the Curve skis ?
Do they dig in more ,because the curved part of the ski that is missing behind the spindle , isn't there to lift the keel from digging in ?

 

[sheetwright]

Tuners remind me of the poor man's simmons gen one. Control darting, handle decent in loose snow, but slide into corners, and feel uncomfortable in icy conditions. Especially if you are a higher speeds guy. Just like other yamaha past skis, it makes you play the upgrade carbide game. C&a razors while adjusting your center shock preload to take the weight off is the ticket on these cat chassis. My .02

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Don't all skis push in loose ?
What do you think is the real difference why some are better than others ,as it doesn't seem to be the height of the keel , as the tallest keel skis are not the best .
Is it the positioning of where the spindle attaches , and how much keel is in front or behind that point ?
And what seems to make a difference is the weight transfer and skis lift .
But if you are switching skis on a sled the weight transfer and skis lift should be a constant , unless the height of the spindle bolt is a couple inches different .

Why do people rave about the Curve skis ?
Do they dig in more ,because the curved part of the ski that is missing behind the spindle , isn't there to lift the keel from digging in ?

All skis push more in loose than hard pack obviously but the cures are WAY less. I think what they are doing is the wide keel in the front grabs a lot of the loose snow and funnels it in around the keel and carbide and packs it making them grip then it spits it back out the back. What ever they do works really well. I'm assuming that's what's happening because the faster you go the better they grip in the loose.

 

[snowbeast]

Yeah but they do work at saving the ski bottom thanks for the reply. Good to know. Did you have to buy the mounting kit too or just bolt on ?

Bolted right on.

 

[snowbeast]

Well i'm gonna ride it to see what happens, then adjust accordingly. I know we're all super excited, but this sled is not a Viper or a 9000. It's heavier up front than Viper & distributed different than 9000. Different shocks, different geometry, snappier so front lifts quicker. I have a set of Pilots, but those push bad in any amount of powder. I HOPE these ski's are close. I'll be almost $17,000 win BEFORE winter & the guy on my left shoulder is getting nervous. I might be better with a CRACK addiction compared to this snowmobile addiction I have...but then again, i don't think they have a CRACK forum that's as fun as this TTY...

See,maybe the pilot works for the cats version of the procross and not a viper,i cant say,because the only sled I had them on was my 2013 procross LXR turbo kitty,and they worked well in all conditions,except off trail in deep stuff,to narrow for that. And it was a shortie 129 track,not a 137,but I will find out,because I still have them,and they will go on,my LTX_LE at some point.

 

[**sj**]

Tuners remind me of the poor man's simmons gen one. Control darting, handle decent in loose snow, but slide into corners, and feel uncomfortable in icy conditions. Especially if you are a higher speeds guy. Just like other yamaha past skis, it makes you play the upgrade carbide game. C&a razors while adjusting your center shock preload to take the weight off is the ticket on these cat chassis. My .02

my thoughts the same....or maybe the xcs???

 

[AXR]

All skis push more in loose than hard pack obviously but the cures are WAY less. I think what they are doing is the wide keel in the front grabs a lot of the loose snow and funnels it in around the keel and carbide and packs it making them grip then it spits it back out the back. What ever they do works really well. I'm assuming that's what's happening because the faster you go the better they grip in the loose.

Yes. I think thats is what the curves do. If you look at the bottom of them they curve down on the sides. I am guessing that traps the snow and funnels it to the center and packs it down. Also the 'curve' profile is just like that found in down hill skis that really changed that sport over the old 2x4 style.

Why do people rave about the Curve skis ?

We rave about them because they plain and simple work very well at holding you in the turns. Regardless of what makes them do it. They just do it. I know it sounds stupid that people can really justify spending $300+ on new skis when you already have skis. All I can really say is that you would not believe the difference in handling of them vs the tuners. I had that feeling of 'well how good is good'. I bit the bullet and man was I impressed.

Don't get me wrong there are other options to the curves and those other options I am sure are all better then the stock tuners at cornering. But after trying the pilots on my apex and riding a friends z1 turbo with c&a's and also his el Tigre 9kT 129" with c&a's I was not all that impressed. The pilots had nice light steering and didn't dart. That was about all. The c&a's held decent but would dart like crazy and they also had very heavy steering. That being said. I did not want either of those options so I went with the next big talk of the town, Curve and I am very happy I did. If I were to try and explain how they feel I would say the steering effort is about exactly the same as the tuners on a viper. Which should be just like the feel on the winder as they also felt the same on a friends 1100T lxr, though you do not need to turn the bars very much because they just bite like crazy. They can dart a little bit depending on the conditions but really not very much. Now at first you may get the impression that they feel darty but the best way I can put it is that they are just super responsive and small movements produce a reaction (can have a twitchy feel). While the tuners you can basically wobble all over the place and not have you twitching very much. Reason? they don't get the bite the curves get.

Now after all the Curve talk. The new talk seems to be about the mohawks. If I did not have curves the mohawks would be my other consideration. I think I still would have went curve though. Just because I don't trust the mohawk skis being mounted to their saddles with the carbide studs. If you have a carbide issue and for some reason had to remove them trail side (bent, worn through, etc..) you can't limp back to the trailer because with no carbide there is nothing bolting the ski to the saddle. It may be something that would never happen. But with my luck I would find a way to trash a carbide and be stuck on 1 ski lol.

Honestly if anyone is thinking the tuners will be any different on the winder I highly doubt it. It's still a procross chassis and should behave similar to the viper. All the posts about guys trying to tighten down the front end to get the viper to handle with the tuners should be no different then the SW. If anything the SW would already have the tightened down viper feel with the increased weight in the front. If trying to get more weight to stay down in the front of the viper didn't work. I don't see the added weight of the SW doing anything either.

Sorry for the long winded reply. I just wanted to try to paint an accurate picture of my personal findings.

 

[yamahaex50]

I think I'm going C&A razors and slim jims

 

[**sj**]

I think slim Jim's would make it heavy steering

 

[yamahaex50]

I think slim Jim's would make it heavy steering

Hoping on the soft UP snow it will be perfect. You think shapers instead?

 

[Port-Parts]

I think slim Jim's would make it heavy steering

Not so - Running Woody's Slim Jims on C&As, Curves, or Slydogs (all more agressively keeled skis) is becoming a very popular set-up - the #1 complaint with more aggressively keeled skis with standard carbide runners when compared to stock style skis is heavy steering - this is due to their much longer and deeper keels found on more agressive skis and the heavier steering is usually a complaint when riding on hardpacked trail conditions - what the Slim Jim carbides do is due to the taller height of the U-shaped style Slim Jim carbide the skis keels are raised up off the snow in hardpack conditions which extremely lessens the steering effort and allows all the front end weight to be centered on the carides for precise steering (also due to the dually design - darting is eliminated) - then when used in loose snow the Slim Jim sinks threw the snow and allows the keels to do their work - this set-up works really well in the real world and allows the ski/carbide combination to work really well in all the conditions encountered on the trail.

 

[**sj**]

C&A told me any bar that's elevated off the keel makes it more aggressive and steer heavier..they recommend a round bar ...I'd say the Bergstrom triple points sounds like a winner...

Who knows...maybe Kevin is right