Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Curve skis are probably the #1 handling upgrade that can be done to the Sidewinder hands down !!! Any sled for that matter, 2degree Celsius, soupy snow conditions, wore out, icy base, trail condition ( not sure yet on hard pack fresh groom) I rode back to back one Sidewinder with C&A razors, 6" carbides, one with Curves xs, 6" slim Jim's and mine with Tuners 7.5" inside and 6" outside carbides, (and I thought my Tuner set up worked boy was I wrong), I could not pack up my sled fast enough to buy a pair of them. These skis just work and perfectly ( if I might add Tom Mr. Sled is spot on with this set up) they are effortless to steer, virtually no darting, and they carry the whole sled through the turns consistently and with domination. You can literally dodge a rock in the middle of a turn with ease, basically change direction, heck I was able to S turn in the turns (no need to lift the sled to avoid it) these skis just WORK !!! don't know what else to say, I was not believer and was going to install C&A because that's all I used in the past and mainly the cost, glad I didn't... and instead picked up a set of Curves instead. Can't wait to ride again when the trails set up. A BIG shout out to Curve Industries for making a top notch ski !!!
SideHogger
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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X2 100%Curve skis are probably the #1 handling upgrade that can be done to the Sidewinder hands down !!! Any sled for that matter, 2degree Celsius, soupy snow conditions, wore out, icy base, trail condition ( not sure yet on hard pack fresh groom) I rode back to back one Sidewinder with C&A razors, 6" carbides, one with Curves xs, 6" slim Jim's and mine with Tuners 7.5" inside and 6" outside carbides, (and I thought my Tuner set up worked boy was I wrong), I could not pack up my sled fast enough to buy a pair of them. These skis just work and perfectly ( if I might add Tom Mr. Sled is spot on with this set up) they are effortless to steer, virtually no darting, and they carry the whole sled through the turns consistently and with domination. You can literally dodge a rock in the middle of a turn with ease, basically change direction, heck I was able to S turn in the turns (no need to lift the sled to avoid it) these skis just WORK !!! don't know what else to say, I was not believer and was going to install C&A because that's all I used in the past and mainly the cost, glad I didn't... and instead picked up a set of Curves instead. Can't wait to ride again when the trails set up. A BIG shout out to Curve Industries for making a top notch ski !!!
yamaha06
VIP Member
Just got in my new rubbers since I initially received the outdated ones. So I have read that the taller section of the rubber goes to the back of the ski?
In my picture I would be putting the left side of the rubber to the back of the ski? They said it was to help with keeping the tips of the ski up, but then I was thinking wouldn't it make more sense if the taller section was at the front of the ski? Maybe it has something to do with spindle geometry not to sure.
In my picture I would be putting the left side of the rubber to the back of the ski? They said it was to help with keeping the tips of the ski up, but then I was thinking wouldn't it make more sense if the taller section was at the front of the ski? Maybe it has something to do with spindle geometry not to sure.
Attachments
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
Taller part of the rubber block to the rear as per instructions, maybe to reduce or eliminate darting. Let us know how they work facing the front if you go that route.Just got in my new rubbers since I initially received the outdated ones. So I have read that the taller section of the rubber goes to the back of the ski?
In my picture I would be putting the left side of the rubber to the back of the ski? They said it was to help with keeping the tips of the ski up, but then I was thinking wouldn't it make more sense if the taller section was at the front of the ski? Maybe it has something to do with spindle geometry not to sure.
AXR
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Past: 2015 Sr Viper R-TX SE, 2008 Apex RTX, 2002 Sx Viper, 1997 XTC 600, 1991 Doo Formula Plus.
If you put the thicker part at the front it will push the front of the ski down more, as thicker rubber puts the front of the ski farther away from the spindle. Putting the thick part to the back (the way it's meant to go) in turn makes the front have less distance to the spindle there fore raising the front up higher to climb out of ruts/other ski tracks easier.
yamaha06
VIP Member
Sounds good guys I put the taller part of the rubbers to the back of the ski. What did you guys set your toe out to? 1/4" or 3/8" over all? And have you noticed any darting with your toe out settings?
Motorhead
TY 4 Stroke God
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3/8" toe out and no darting at all but I do have SJ. Did try to get it at 1/8" but that involved turning only one side adjuster and handlebars were off a bit, so left them At 3/8" with perfectly straight handlebars and tried them out.
Just incredible, one hand control now if I want with 0 darting, much like all my past sleds once Woodys doolys are applied. These are my first SJ though, but they act the same except they don't seem to push in corners.
Not sure if it is the curve/SJ combination or that the dooly's just pushed on Yamaha skis.
Only negative with curves for me is the width, harder loading and unloading with new style crossover trailer. Unlike my old clamshell which have a wide open back when tilted, these new style crossover's are enclosed with steep ramp, and the back ramp door opening has 1 1/2"of aluminum on each side for support, so your opening size is smaller then 101".
Just incredible, one hand control now if I want with 0 darting, much like all my past sleds once Woodys doolys are applied. These are my first SJ though, but they act the same except they don't seem to push in corners.
Not sure if it is the curve/SJ combination or that the dooly's just pushed on Yamaha skis.
Only negative with curves for me is the width, harder loading and unloading with new style crossover trailer. Unlike my old clamshell which have a wide open back when tilted, these new style crossover's are enclosed with steep ramp, and the back ramp door opening has 1 1/2"of aluminum on each side for support, so your opening size is smaller then 101".
Keith Schmitz
Pro
Can I ask what you didn't like about the C&A's? I have a set I'm gonna throw on, but now you've got me nervous...Curve skis are probably the #1 handling upgrade that can be done to the Sidewinder hands down !!! Any sled for that matter, 2degree Celsius, soupy snow conditions, wore out, icy base, trail condition ( not sure yet on hard pack fresh groom) I rode back to back one Sidewinder with C&A razors, 6" carbides, one with Curves xs, 6" slim Jim's and mine with Tuners 7.5" inside and 6" outside carbides, (and I thought my Tuner set up worked boy was I wrong), I could not pack up my sled fast enough to buy a pair of them. These skis just work and perfectly ( if I might add Tom Mr. Sled is spot on with this set up) they are effortless to steer, virtually no darting, and they carry the whole sled through the turns consistently and with domination. You can literally dodge a rock in the middle of a turn with ease, basically change direction, heck I was able to S turn in the turns (no need to lift the sled to avoid it) these skis just WORK !!! don't know what else to say, I was not believer and was going to install C&A because that's all I used in the past and mainly the cost, glad I didn't... and instead picked up a set of Curves instead. Can't wait to ride again when the trails set up. A BIG shout out to Curve Industries for making a top notch ski !!!
super1c
Moderator
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X2. Running 3/8 toe. And the trailer ramp is a bit narrow for these skis. Have to be pretty dead on loading!3/8" toe out and no darting at all but I do have SJ. Did try to get it at 1/8" but that involved turning only one side adjuster and handlebars were off a bit, so left them At 3/8" with perfectly straight handlebars and tried them out.
Just incredible, one hand control now if I want with 0 darting, much like all my past sleds once Woodys doolys are applied. These are my first SJ though, but they act the same except they don't seem to push in corners.
Not sure if it is the curve/SJ combination or that the dooly's just pushed on Yamaha skis.
Only negative with curves for me is the width, harder loading and unloading with new style crossover trailer. Unlike my old clamshell which have a wide open back when tilted, these new style crossover's are enclosed with steep ramp, and the back ramp door opening has 1 1/2"of aluminum on each side for support, so your opening size is smaller then 101".
Pstn head
TY 4 Stroke Master
The C&A worked very well, lots of bite, I wouldn't be worried one bit, they performed excellant but the Curves are more precise and easier to steer, more consistent through out the whole turn.Can I ask what you didn't like about the C&A's? I have a set I'm gonna throw on, but now you've got me nervous...
Doowithblue
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18- RTX LE
Has anyone used the leading edge? I tried them and took them off. Found it actually took away some steering for me.
AXR
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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Past: 2015 Sr Viper R-TX SE, 2008 Apex RTX, 2002 Sx Viper, 1997 XTC 600, 1991 Doo Formula Plus.
I have the 4" leading edge. I really don't notice it doing much. I would not spend the $ again.Has anyone used the leading edge? I tried them and took them off. Found it actually took away some steering for me.
Do any loops fit the Curves other than the curve loop?
Motorhead
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Do any loops fit the Curves other than the curve loop?
I would say no whereas both the loops and mounting hardware (front loop hardware) look unique to this ski !
Teamblewbyu
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'12 800 X Etec, 11' 800 XRS Etec, 10' 600Etec, 04'800PRO XR 01' 440 Pro-X
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