blockoff plate
I bought the schmildt bros blockoff plate last season with good results.Over the summer I removed the tunnel protectors and had the exhaust from the head back ceramic coated.Very little buildup in the tunnel and nothing on the outside of the sled and I have the stock muffler.I run the ice ripper track and all is good.3125 miles 09 fx
I bought the schmildt bros blockoff plate last season with good results.Over the summer I removed the tunnel protectors and had the exhaust from the head back ceramic coated.Very little buildup in the tunnel and nothing on the outside of the sled and I have the stock muffler.I run the ice ripper track and all is good.3125 miles 09 fx
grizztracks
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arteeex said:
Art, If I remember right you did this mod twice. The first time you mounted a shorter plate above the protectors and the second longer plate is fastened to the bottom of the protectors. I'm debating which way to mount it. Do you think one method is noticeably better than the other.
My exhaust donuts pulled the increasingly popular disappearing act so I thought I'd get the plate installed while I wait for parts.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
I am on my second version of the block-off plate. The earlier version was shorter and mounted to the top of the protectors. I don't think the first version was as effective. However, I can't say if this was because it was shorter, above the protectors or both.
With the longer plate mounted under the protectors there has been much less ice build-up, particulaly in the last foot of the tunnel - probably less than 5-pounds. About 2/3 of the longer plate is self-cleaning as it stays warm enough to shed ice. Depending on conditions I can get some ice build-up on the vertical sides of the tunnel but this will usually fall out on a rough trial or with a boot to the side. I certainly have not seen anything like the 50-pound, fanged ice blocks that would occasionally grow back there.
Obviously if you run studs my second version isn't going to be the hot setup. An alternative for a studded track might be to form a simple channel section with 3/4 inch tabs bent up on the two long edges for installation between the two protector rails with rivets or screws. If you go this route, closing off the sides above the protectors may not be absolutely necessary to see a benefit.
I believe the longer plate is the better way to go. If mounted to the top of the protectors you may need to make an allowance to clear the muffler so two won't buzz.
With the longer plate mounted under the protectors there has been much less ice build-up, particulaly in the last foot of the tunnel - probably less than 5-pounds. About 2/3 of the longer plate is self-cleaning as it stays warm enough to shed ice. Depending on conditions I can get some ice build-up on the vertical sides of the tunnel but this will usually fall out on a rough trial or with a boot to the side. I certainly have not seen anything like the 50-pound, fanged ice blocks that would occasionally grow back there.
Obviously if you run studs my second version isn't going to be the hot setup. An alternative for a studded track might be to form a simple channel section with 3/4 inch tabs bent up on the two long edges for installation between the two protector rails with rivets or screws. If you go this route, closing off the sides above the protectors may not be absolutely necessary to see a benefit.
I believe the longer plate is the better way to go. If mounted to the top of the protectors you may need to make an allowance to clear the muffler so two won't buzz.
sly23
Extreme
Just curious, I don't know much about ceramic coating, but it's supposed to reduce the outer heat of your exhaust, therefore allowing you to block off more of your tunnel without worrying about over heating. True? I'm looking into doing a block off and I'm curious why no one talked about this?
sly23 said:
ceramic coating holds the heat inside the pipe...the outer surface can be significantly cooler and therefore be a factor in helping to reduce the snow to steam to cold tunnel icing affect
sly23
Extreme
Therefore you could do ceramic coating and block off your tunnel thoroughly without worrying about over heating under your seat....... After reading again I saw you commented on this sj. Ever bother going through with it?sj said:
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
If you ceramic coated the header pipe you might not need to close off the tunnel as much. Maybe just enough to cover the muffler and half the header pipe. That is how I would start, and work from there.
I have done other exhaust but not the nytro...to add to the complexity...I believe some coatings are better than others...but cant back with scientific data...
IMHO
what I think is happening is the muffler gets super heated...the snow hits this super heated surface and atomizes...and is relatively light compared to a water droplet...the tunnel is cold and the atomized 'fog" or "mist" sticks to cold surface like a "wet tongue on a flagpole"
if its me...the purpose of the block off is to prevent snow from hitting the super heated surface....
so a partial block off is recommended since the surface wouldnt be super heated from the ceramic coating and still let air circulate for addl cooling......the super heated survace drops to just very hot...
in addition when the partial block off plate gets partially heated it raises the temp of the tunnel in general...thereby reducing the extreme temperature differential and the "wet tongue on the flagpole" syndrome...
this is why any block off sees an improvement..
IMHO
what I think is happening is the muffler gets super heated...the snow hits this super heated surface and atomizes...and is relatively light compared to a water droplet...the tunnel is cold and the atomized 'fog" or "mist" sticks to cold surface like a "wet tongue on a flagpole"
if its me...the purpose of the block off is to prevent snow from hitting the super heated surface....
so a partial block off is recommended since the surface wouldnt be super heated from the ceramic coating and still let air circulate for addl cooling......the super heated survace drops to just very hot...
in addition when the partial block off plate gets partially heated it raises the temp of the tunnel in general...thereby reducing the extreme temperature differential and the "wet tongue on the flagpole" syndrome...
this is why any block off sees an improvement..
Sledboy04
Extreme
I ran all last year with my MTX with the tunnel plate blocked off and had the header ceramic coated. No build up of ice or snow at the front of the tunnel. Never had any over heating from sitting and letting the engine idle. Also ran with the Trail Tank. My problem is after the exhaust, the last 18" or so. What a *#!^& pain, kicking the ice off all during the ride. I'm going this year with the MPI tunnel cooler and see if the extra length of the exchangers going past the exhaust helps in the ice build up. Anyone else trying this?
canoehead
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What do you think?
I might have come up with the best solution yet for the tunnel icing issue... I'm installing an aluminum plate along the tunnel protectors. I know your saying "that's not new" But what I'm going to do is use adhesive to attach a cut out Crazy Carpet to the aluminum plate. This plastic will be adhered and riveted to the plate and through the protectors. The Crazy Carpet can be left a little wider and trimmed so it can seal against the tunnel walls. Not only non stick but they come in Blue & Red!! It's my summer job.. Keep you posted.
I might have come up with the best solution yet for the tunnel icing issue... I'm installing an aluminum plate along the tunnel protectors. I know your saying "that's not new" But what I'm going to do is use adhesive to attach a cut out Crazy Carpet to the aluminum plate. This plastic will be adhered and riveted to the plate and through the protectors. The Crazy Carpet can be left a little wider and trimmed so it can seal against the tunnel walls. Not only non stick but they come in Blue & Red!! It's my summer job.. Keep you posted.
revster
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This won't work like this with the stock exhaust. But this set-up has been tested for over 1500 miles in all conditions and works. I get less ice build-up then I did on any of my 2-strokes.
(NOTE: I also have a MTX cooler)
The plate is from OFT, I cut a hole for the exhaust to pass thru....
(NOTE: I also have a MTX cooler)
The plate is from OFT, I cut a hole for the exhaust to pass thru....
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09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
revster that looks good i would like to do something but i have stock exhuast but i can make something work
the hot pipe inside the tunnel is the problem....if that pipe was quality ceramic coated ...or enclosed....or if the pipe had hmmm metal to heat sink the heat from the pipe TO the tunnel surface....equalizing the temperature differential...
the only ture solution is equalizing the temp differential....or heating the tunnel...from the heat of the exhaust...
the only ture solution is equalizing the temp differential....or heating the tunnel...from the heat of the exhaust...
09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
What are you saying not to close it off all the way like that . I was thinkin it may melt the seat or something
it surely will hold heat in the seat area and can melt plastic....
what is happening ...a hot mufller or center pipe is superheated and atomizing the snow on contact....this water "mist" is lighter than a typical water drop and remains aloft from the track fanning ....and hits the cold tunnel and sticks to it like your warm wet tongue stuck to the cold flagpole when you were a kid....once the ice is forming it is the same as the cold flagpole...
if they either dramatically lowered the pipe/mufflers temp to stop the atomizing....or increased the tunnel temp drawing heat from the hot exhaust and becoming its heat sink....it would become a warm flagpole and nothing would stick then...
closing off only helps as it reduces the area of superheated pipe/exhaust....
what is happening ...a hot mufller or center pipe is superheated and atomizing the snow on contact....this water "mist" is lighter than a typical water drop and remains aloft from the track fanning ....and hits the cold tunnel and sticks to it like your warm wet tongue stuck to the cold flagpole when you were a kid....once the ice is forming it is the same as the cold flagpole...
if they either dramatically lowered the pipe/mufflers temp to stop the atomizing....or increased the tunnel temp drawing heat from the hot exhaust and becoming its heat sink....it would become a warm flagpole and nothing would stick then...
closing off only helps as it reduces the area of superheated pipe/exhaust....
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