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Tunnel Dammage Due to Ice

Good luck with those two nuts lol.. I seen a post where Yamamarc modified a wrench to get at them easier.
When I removed my header to drill out the rivets, luckily I had several sets of wrench’s and found they all grab the nut at different spots/angles which made it easier to remove and reinstall them.
 

I bailed on removing the manifold, couldn't get the hardest nut so I stopped. I figured that once jackshaft comes out (something I'm unwilling to do right now) I can get it from the bottom.

I just bent everything back and will monitor it closely
 
The trick is to get a few different brand wrench as they all grab the nut differently and keep rotating between them till the nut is loose enough to turn by hand.
 
When I do my seasonal maintenance I'll have the sled up on milk crates. When I fixed the front of the tunnel, louvers and added 5/8 headed rivets. I came up from the bottom thru the engine oil drain plate to get that manifold nut. PIA but can be done. Be sure to start that nut first on reassembly!
 
Hello. The radiator plate is slightly bent due to ice. I want to fix it. Does it need to be heated or can it be gently straightened without heating?
 
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I designed it and had them made at a shop with CNC machines. I do have 15 extra I made, and will sell. I do have a shop and do some work on sleds for people who know of me. I try not to be to busy because as you can see by my mileage I like to ride and ride as much as I can. I'm in the UP of Michigan riding this weekend, nothing better than spring riding.I will sell them, not sure how to do this as I am not a vendor and don't want to break any Totallyamaha rules. I will sign up to be a vendor so I can forward my contact info for anyone wanting one of these tunnel plates. You do need to drill holes in plate for rivets, it is critical to line up along front edge to match to heat exchanger. Plate is about 1/6" thick stainless steel, I can check exact thickness when I get back to my shop on Monday. It does make the job easier to have a drill press to use for drilling stainless for rivets. This is a major modification so be prepared for removing gas tank, exhaust header, etc to preform install. I have been involved with all of installs thru my shop of 8 sleds, most with no damage to tunnel and didn't want any issues like I had. Price for plate and 14 rivets is $50 plus shipping.
Would it be posssible to ship to this address, 17000 du diamant Mirabel, Quebec, Canada. Do you have some plate left, very good design.
Alain.
 
I just sold my last one but already have more being made. I can contact you when I get a new batch. I will ship to you. Give me your email or phone number and I can contact you.
 
I want to try to fix it. Do I need to heat the metal? Is it aluminum or alloy?
Screenshot_20220324_202551.jpgScreenshot_20220324_202504_com.android.gallery3d_edit_276370824507306.jpg
 
Like they say - “there is quitting” and then is “quitting while you are ahead”.

I would really want to get a good look At it before i did anything, which means remove the drive cogs and the cross shaft. If it is weakened enough, you will just break that fin off or worse.

And yes, if you gotta do it - use a heat gun and warm it up. I would use vise grips with the wide mouth - ones welders use to hold steel together.
MS
 
Thought I would some pics of Craig's plate on my sled. I started to have the tunnel / icing problem too. All rivets were loose. 3/16 big head stainless rivets sucked it down tight. I probably weakened it slightly by cutting a notch out to go around the radiator hose. i couldn't bring myself to drain it down. I also lined it up to keep the vents open which I had to bend back. All of mine were pushed closed. I was able to use existing rivet holes without pulling the track. Drilled a few extra with a 90 degree angle drill under the jackshaft.
 

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