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Tunnel Dammage Due to Ice

Decided to pull the tank today and sure enough the rivets on top of the tunnel to heat exchanger were loose, with one just starting to wear into the tunnel.
Luckily I have no tunnel or louvre damage.

Are rivets the only option when reinforcing this area ?
 
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There have been a number of various fixes posted here on TY. Do search for ice damage or tunnel damage. Some have installed reinforcing plates inside tunnel, some substituting bolts for rivets, etc. IMO, at minimum add additional rivets (replace/add larger structural rivets, not cheap ones Cat uses).
Most of the time when resuming riding after a stop, I back up a short distance to eject any large chunks of ice sitting on top of track.
 
Thanks Turboflash,
I’m very proactive with keeping my tunnel ice free, I think the loose rivers were caused by using cheap rivets like you said.

Any chance you have links to this fix ? I did some searching and only found this thread.
 
I guess post #53 & #62 show some fixes that seem "permanent." Even factory Yamaha bulletins cautioned dealers and owners of ice buildup. I always de-ice tunnel with a long wood shovel handle to knock loose ice way up in tunnel, run track in reverse on stand to eject it prior to parking sled for the night (outside). It's wise to keep a close eye on this as it is a source of problems for the Sidewinder.
 
i use stavex rivets whenever i do anything involving a tunnel on a sled. can be done by hand but the hydraulic pop riviter is my go to for them as they hurt when you are doing a bunch of them. there is one for a cordless drill as well but have not used it yet and i do own one.
 
i use stavex rivets whenever i do anything involving a tunnel on a sled. can be done by hand but the hydraulic pop riviter is my go to for them as they hurt when you are doing a bunch of them. there is one for a cordless drill as well but have not used it yet and i do own one.
I bought one of those drill riveters , and was surprised how well it works .
 
mine is a matco tools branded one but i have seen them on amazon and ebay.
 
I am fixing the same situation on mine tomorrow. When I take off and reinstall the braces along the gas tank, is there anything I need to do to line it all back up? I couldn't find it but I thought that I read that you can bolt it back in such a way that the chassis is not aligned properly
 
I have taken the tank off my 20 a hand full of times for cleaning tunnel, Inspection and fixings the rivets and my braces always lined up perfectly.
I would think if something has moved the bolts wouldn’t line up like they’re supposed to.
 
IMO, make very sure all the rest of the pyramid spars are tight before taking the gas tank ones off. If all the rest of them are tight, including the aluminum ones on the sides are tight, when you put the tank ones back on they should line up. If not, put a floor jack with a board on it right at front drive sprockets and lift upward some. You should see the holes in spars line up easily.
 
Looks like I need to pull the exhaust manifold off to do anything. What do you guys use for a torque value? I obviously won't be able to torque 2 of the nuts.....
 


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