Ulmer Dyno

Dalton helix will match OEM Yamaha angles. STM will be 6 degrees steeper. If you bought a Dalton 35, it will shift virtually the same as OEM. If you buy a STM 35, it will shift closer to a 41 degree angle.
100% . I was running a STM helix and have some post on here somewhere. I showed the difference with a angle finder. Knapp kind of called me out on this. He was right about the STM being much steeper. Good call Allen and info here.
 
FYI.....I just did TAPP setup vs Arctic Cat ADAPT (primary & secondary), I'll try to post some information here soon.

Gains vs the Cat clutches on consistency as the clutch shifts out is fairly significant.
 
FYI.....I just did TAPP setup vs Arctic Cat ADAPT (primary & secondary), I'll try to post some information here soon.

Gains vs the Cat clutches on consistency as the clutch shifts out is fairly significant.

I should add, this is at bigger pump gas power (160+ hp to the track on pump gas setting).
 
FYI.....I just did TAPP setup vs Arctic Cat ADAPT (primary & secondary), I'll try to post some information here soon.

Gains vs the Cat clutches on consistency as the clutch shifts out is fairly significant.

Good stuff Allen. One thing I fogot to mention, if you are using the button spider, It takes some time to break it in. When new they are pretty sticky with pressure on the buttons from the o-rings behind, arms don't always move freely and buttons don't slide well. Putting time on the TAPP will allow for less arm weight and the clutch to move more freely. On a roller spider its just the arms and you will not notice the stiction at all really, so its a non issue on the roller spider.
 
Allen thank you again for sharing. Always very interesting seeing the correlation between different components. So was this enough info for your customer to pull the trigger on the billet stuff?
 
I just did another Thundercat, this one was with a steel spider Adapt primary, but the results were the same as I've seen before. Heat soaked, there is some inconsistency in the shift out. When the clutch is cold it works great, as you do continuous back to back to back runs, the track horsepower falls off with each run. Install a TAPP or Yamaha primary and I can make 5 runs back to back to back to back to back and be within 1-2 horsepower no matter what.
 
I just did another Thundercat, this one was with a steel spider Adapt primary, but the results were the same as I've seen before. Heat soaked, there is some inconsistency in the shift out. When the clutch is cold it works great, as you do continuous back to back to back runs, the track horsepower falls off with each run. Install a TAPP or Yamaha primary and I can make 5 runs back to back to back to back to back and be within 1-2 horsepower no matter what.

Great report on the new steel spider ADAPT Allen!

These new Cat clutch guys/engineers seem to have forgot their past in that the further the buttons are out on the swing circle, the more efficient and consistent the clutch will shift time after time. They went backwards & brought the button circle inward towards the shaft. I questioned this thinking when I saw this new design on the ADAPT. Totally questioned why they would have done that knowing it was going backwards in time. I swear they can't design a decent clutch to save their soul. Made of inferior materials and a poorly engineered design this ADAPT is.
 
FWIW - Allen & I did not see this issue with my aluminum spider ADAPT on his dyno.
Over 2 separate sessions about 3 months apart (approx 100+ pulls in total) it was very consistent on back-to-back pulls.
So, maybe it's something with steel spider that causes the problem? Or, maybe it was just my particular setup that made it not happen?
 


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