Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Picked up my Machine today . All the guy could tell me was 2 valves were tight and rest of the exhaust valves were out of spec. I do know the # that was on the shim from factory and what they replaced it with. Machine seams to run a lot better and don't seam to stall when you try to move it before fully warmed up.
Was also told I should run piston ring carbon cleaner in first tank of gas. Any thoughts on this??
Was also told I should run piston ring carbon cleaner in first tank of gas. Any thoughts on this??
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That’s not good if was actually a Tight one.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I know what your saying. I hope it ok now as my symptoms were not as bad as a lot I seen posted. Mine would just drop idle on cold start and stall if mover before warmed up. I never needed to press the gas to keep it going tell warmed up and once warmed up it worked great.
what are you thought on running piston ring carbon cleaner in first tank of gas?
When I picked up my viper(brand new)
My dealer said run a carbon cleaner every other tank,I said really, it’s brand new.There response was just do it.
Handed my a couple of bottles.
All they do is Yamaha snowmobiles and marine so didn’t question.
They also replaced the chain case oil with there Marine stuff and said it holds up to the stress a lot better.
8k and never blew a case or bearing.
Excessive carbon buildup was a thing they explained.
I like running the engine med Yamaha sells. Never hurts.
I miss the 5 valve head also. WAY less spring pressure.
When I take header off I will scope the valves and piston. Take pics. Wash will tell.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
what about sea foam
Great stuff. Use it all the time on the auto/ truck side of things.
Honestly, I would use it for the initial big blast carbon removal, then in season riding use the engine med that Yamaha sells.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
are you talking about the sea foam you add to your gas?
I can tell you what works better. Water. Get engine good and hot. Put some nice clean water in a spray bottle. Hold throttle about half way and very carefully spray a mist of water into intake. Be careful if you hydro lock engine from too much water it’s all over with. I don’t see how carbon has anything to do with tight valve. If anything it would cause valve to hang up making lash bigger not smaller.
Allan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I don't know either. the mechanic suggest I run some ring and carbon cleaner in first tank of gas. Like you i think carbon would give you more lash.
Don't know if my thinking is right or not but for valves to get tight the valve would have to be pulled into the head for one reason or another or valve stretched?
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Yes.white bottle with red lettering.
The best way would be to have just enough fuel in the tank... 1/2 gallon then dump a whole can in tank, run sled to circulate through injectors, intake track ect. Use the engine med stuff while your riding.
Cat sells a extension harness that I used to run sled with entire front clip removed from sled, makes off season maintenance and checkout a breeze.
One of the ways I drained my fuel.Release the quick disconnect fuel line from the fuel rail and cycle pump.
Tight valve in that design is a indication of the valve face deterioration causing the valve to travel further into head seat.
Carbon cleaner is for overall maintenance. Excessive carbon would hang the valve open and cause loss of compression and excessive cylinder leakage.
Carbon cleaner is for overall maintenance. Excessive carbon would hang the valve open and cause loss of compression and excessive cylinder leakage.
