09nytro
TY 4 Stroke God
Here are the rivits I used part#90267-48177 , they pull way tighter then the cat ones
And use a Air Rivet Gun.
1049triple
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Mine does the exact same thing.
A note to Cat engineers:
A pop rivet is typically used to join 2 thin pieces typically sheet metal where you would have a hole through the metal. The rivet grip range needs to be longer than that of the pieces being joined.
In the case of the joint in question, the aluminum brace is a diecast material and is solid. While a pop rivet will expand in this application it will not draw together well. What I did was drill the vacant hole completely through at 3/16". I then back bored the hole from the other end at 7/32" leaving a top side hole depth that exceeded the grip range of my 3/16" stainless rivet. This allowed the rivet to expand slightly into the counter bore and draw down tight. Had the brace been off the sled I would have hollowed it from the end to allow a pocket for the rivet to expand.
My suggestion to the mfr is to hollow the end of this brace and use 2 rivets preferably stainless steel due to the potential high stress.
We'll see how my fix holds. It was a bit awkward to drill out the old rivets with the tank installed and my bulky drill so I left as is for now.
A pop rivet is typically used to join 2 thin pieces typically sheet metal where you would have a hole through the metal. The rivet grip range needs to be longer than that of the pieces being joined.
In the case of the joint in question, the aluminum brace is a diecast material and is solid. While a pop rivet will expand in this application it will not draw together well. What I did was drill the vacant hole completely through at 3/16". I then back bored the hole from the other end at 7/32" leaving a top side hole depth that exceeded the grip range of my 3/16" stainless rivet. This allowed the rivet to expand slightly into the counter bore and draw down tight. Had the brace been off the sled I would have hollowed it from the end to allow a pocket for the rivet to expand.
My suggestion to the mfr is to hollow the end of this brace and use 2 rivets preferably stainless steel due to the potential high stress.
We'll see how my fix holds. It was a bit awkward to drill out the old rivets with the tank installed and my bulky drill so I left as is for now.
Last edited:
buddah
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Turns out I lied........I looked closer earlier this evening........right side only but definitely there.............
After 250 miles mostly rough out of Munising it looks like the fix is working. Now I need to work on tunnel lap.
sparky72
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Good! I posted a while back and got no replies, thought I was the only one with the same issue. Mine is worse than the pic, and have many rivets with the paint cracked around the heads. Its at the dealer now for repair, which is fine, but what happens when I'm out of warranty??? I hope Yamaha does something about it.
I sent the pics to my dealer just pointing out the area of concern and this is what I was told:
Appears sled is showing some normal wear, the gray smut created from flexing and friction of aluminum is not unusual. I suppose one could try to rerivet in hopes of tightening things up a bit.
Appears sled is showing some normal wear, the gray smut created from flexing and friction of aluminum is not unusual. I suppose one could try to rerivet in hopes of tightening things up a bit.
Turtle
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Mine has the same areas of smut. It seemed to be quite a lot when the sled was new. But now with over 2000 miles, the smut is much less. Some spots don't even have smut anymore. I guess I'm not too worried about it as you have to expect the frame flex a little bit. I think we notice it the most because we simply have white tunnels. Those with bare or black tunnels I doubt even notice it.
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RacinJason15
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I also have it after a long ride... around areas where sheet metal meet and rivits hold the tunnel together..
Sharkboyz Plungerz
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My white tunnel / running board has paint chips about the size of a quarter missing where my right foot rests. I dropped it off at dealer last Friday for 500 mile checkup. He said he has not seen that before.
We'll see if and how they address the issue. I told him, imagine how it will look at 3 thousand miles if this is how it looks at 500 miles. Only issue I have, this sled rocks! I only remember I had an Apex when I look at old pictures.
We'll see if and how they address the issue. I told him, imagine how it will look at 3 thousand miles if this is how it looks at 500 miles. Only issue I have, this sled rocks! I only remember I had an Apex when I look at old pictures.
swampcat
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Its called"rivet smoke" and its NEVER a good sign. Its a indication of a LOOSE fastener. Be it a rivet, bolt or whatever. I dont care what anyone tells you, its NOT a good sign.
Yes if its loose it is. But most of these are just where the powder coat didnt adhere. All the dirt and grime collects where ever there is a edge. It looks bad. But Unless rivet is actually loose thats all it is. Looks.
Agreed
And working to tighten things up a bit. The running board brace was just step one.
6000mi and none other than those brace rivets have actually come loose. I saw the so called "smokin" rivets with under 300mi. I am just saying no reason to worry so far. You should see all the loose Rivets on Phazer. It will happen eventually to any sled.
