I've been reading these forums alot since I decided and subsequently brought home my 05 RX1. Now, let's take these Xenon lights for example. There's a reason they cost 500-1000 extra to have them on an automobile, as they have a whole separate electronic system with them. Now I'm hearing that some say these 12 dollar bulbs are no better than stockers. I have a tendency to believe them. I have to wonder if in fact they are true Xenon bulbs.......using Xenon gas? As to performance, I'm no stranger to hopping up sleds, and have skinned plenty of knuckles messing with clutches, carburation, etc. over the years. My REV was pretty good stock, so that's how I left it. My ZR800 responded awesome to cut heads, some clutching and carb work. My 2000 SRX motor was good stock, but responded well to more aggressive clutching. I had a Mach 1 (617cc) once that I put pipes on, but geared it DOWN to make it faster. Every sled is different. I've heard most everyone here claim the ECP kit and airbox mods will make the sled faster. Now I spent some time with my dealer this past weekend, who's done alot of grass dragging over the years, and knows Terry Bender personally. He knows I want the best performance out of my RX1 and he's telling me, and Terry Bender has also told him, that I should just leave it stock. I'm thinking the truth is somewhere in the middle. Have any of you guys actually taken a real test of any performance increases with a stopwatch or a radar gun? Those things I'm not reading here, maybe I haven't dug deep enough. What I'm not interested is wasting a bunch of money on something that may make my sled faster in a 1000 feet, but slower in 2000+ feet, which is more real world to me (long lake runs). I'm not interested in having a clutching setup that may get me to 100 quicker, while throwing my backshift out the window. Alot of products make you think you're going faster, but the stopwatch/radar guns don't lie. I'm not accusing anyone of anything, because i have zero experience with the RX1. I just know that every sled is different, as to how they respond to mods. I'd be interested in some comments......
One other thing, I have great respect for the guys who do take the time, and who are trying to get more performance from the RX1. I'm not in any way trying to demean their efforts either. But, I've also learned over the years that sometimes the dyno may show one thing, and the real world another. I've also seen alot of guys who spend all this money on clutching and motor work, but don't even have the traction to hook up the power.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
wolfie said:I've been reading these forums alot since I decided and subsequently brought home my 05 RX1. Now, let's take these Xenon lights for example. There's a reason they cost 500-1000 extra to have them on an automobile, as they have a whole separate electronic system with them. Now I'm hearing that some say these 12 dollar bulbs are no better than stockers. I have a tendency to believe them. I have to wonder if in fact they are true Xenon bulbs.......using Xenon gas?
WHO SAID THAT THE $12 Bulbs arnt better?? THEY ARE!!
As to performance, I'm no stranger to hopping up sleds, and have skinned plenty of knuckles messing with clutches, carburation, etc. over the years. My REV was pretty good stock, so that's how I left it. My ZR800 responded awesome to cut heads, some clutching and carb work. My 2000 SRX motor was good stock, but responded well to more aggressive clutching. I had a Mach 1 (617cc) once that I put pipes on, but geared it DOWN to make it faster. Every sled is different. I've heard most everyone here claim the ECP kit and airbox mods will make the sled faster. Now I spent some time with my dealer this past weekend, who's done alot of grass dragging over the years, and knows Terry Bender personally. He knows I want the best performance out of my RX1 and he's telling me, and Terry Bender has also told him, that I should just leave it stock. I'm thinking the truth is somewhere in the middle. Have any of you guys actually taken a real test of any performance increases with a stopwatch or a radar gun? Those things I'm not reading here, maybe I haven't dug deep enough. What I'm not interested is wasting a bunch of money on something that may make my sled faster in a 1000 feet, but slower in 2000+ feet, which is more real world to me (long lake runs). I'm not interested in having a clutching setup that may get me to 100 quicker, while throwing my backshift out the window. Alot of products make you think you're going faster, but the stopwatch/radar guns don't lie. I'm not accusing anyone of anything, because i have zero experience with the RX1. I just know that every sled is different, as to how they respond to mods. I'd be interested in some comments......
What are you interested in ?? TOP SPEED?? If so leave it stock and just have the secondary helix machined to create a overdrive in it!! I had a post a while back about top speed seen on a Rx on radar and it was i believe 119mph on a lake!
If you want quicker in the 1/4 mile get the supertune kit for simons cpr.. It is alot better than stock, as stock clutching only allows the engine to spin arouind 9500rpms , not where the sweet spot is, 10,300 is where you want it!
Also the stock springs in the carbs (CV springs) do not allow the carbs to open fully.. Hense why most of us are using Holtzman carb CV springs!!
Freddie's ECP kit addes HP and Torque threwout the range (he has many years of dyno and drag racing experiece) and Untill you ride one with the kit you wont beileve the difference!
Any performance you do to a sled is always left in the hands of the person tuning it... Just because you throw parts at a sled doenst make it faster unless it works well as a WHOLE!! All correct things must be done to the sled with the ecp kit includding syncroizing the carbs!!
Have a great day and let me know if i answered all your questions!
Brian
Mighty
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Clutch it and get an ECP K&N kit and you'll be fine. Do a search for ecp and you'll find many posts in their favor. One that comes to mind was the son and dad that had matching RX-1's. They ordered two kits , ran the sleds stock and they were tied, installed one kit in the son's sled and it beat Dad's convincingly. They then put the kit on Dad's and they were even again. I have read similar claims in reference to clutching, and Heavy Hitters appear to be the overwhelming favorite.
RippinV
Expert
AMen, only way to get xenon lights is xenon lights with gas and seperate electric unit called a balaster. However, I did replace the standard holegen lights on my truck with Sylvania silverstars and have noticed a huge difference in lighting effect. Same wattage but a much whiter light than standard holegen. I am ordering H4s today for the sled and will post pics after they are installed.
Peace!
Peace!
Mighty
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High Intensity Discharge (HID) lighting technology replaces the filament of the light bulb with a capsule of gas. The light is emitted from an arc discharge between two closely spaced electrodes hermetically sealed inside a small quartz glass tubular envelope capsule. To operate, they require ballasts, which supply proper voltage and control current. The amount of light produced is greater than a standard halogen bulb, while consuming less power, and more closely approximating the color temperature of natural daylight.
In all High Intensity Discharge lamps, light is produced by passing a current through a metal vapor. Free electrons colliding with an atom in the vapor momentarily knock an electron into a higher orbit of the atom. When the displaced electron falls back to its former level, a quantum of radiation is emitted. The wavelength of radiation depends on the energy zone of the disturbed electron and on the type of metal vapor used in the arc tube.
Although it produces 5% of its output when first ignited, the HID light requires a few seconds (usually 15-20) to come up to full output. Also, if power to the lamp is lost or turned off, the arc tube must cool to a given temperature before the arc can be re-struck and light produced. Halcyon HID lights only require a brief (15-30 second) cooling period before they can be re-lit.
In all High Intensity Discharge lamps, light is produced by passing a current through a metal vapor. Free electrons colliding with an atom in the vapor momentarily knock an electron into a higher orbit of the atom. When the displaced electron falls back to its former level, a quantum of radiation is emitted. The wavelength of radiation depends on the energy zone of the disturbed electron and on the type of metal vapor used in the arc tube.
Although it produces 5% of its output when first ignited, the HID light requires a few seconds (usually 15-20) to come up to full output. Also, if power to the lamp is lost or turned off, the arc tube must cool to a given temperature before the arc can be re-struck and light produced. Halcyon HID lights only require a brief (15-30 second) cooling period before they can be re-lit.
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To the Xenon light question. I bought a pair this week to see if they made any difference. I installed just one and compared the difference in light color. The Xenon light is a much whiter light that the stock bulb was. Actually, the stock bulb looked yellow in comparison. That is all I can say about it since I have not actually rode with these lights but I will find out this winter.
If you are a high mileage rider keep it stock. The stock clutch performs well under almost all conditions.
Super tune HH clutch kits reduce clutch life considerably. The smaller diameter rollers wear faster than normal especially with the narrow load bearing surface of the HH weights. You have a mess when the rollers shatter. The higher RPM contributes to oil burning.
ECP kits are very expensive and plug with snow. You have to watch for the snow build up under continiously changing conditions. Many riders experienced loss of top speed. Their answer was to turn the motor faster.
A onened air box with 170 mains and a ventury extractor for the crank case breather will give more trail performance than the ECP air kit.
Just my opinion over a season where most of us rode 6000 plus miles and some 10,000 to 13,000 miles. We tried it all.
Super tune HH clutch kits reduce clutch life considerably. The smaller diameter rollers wear faster than normal especially with the narrow load bearing surface of the HH weights. You have a mess when the rollers shatter. The higher RPM contributes to oil burning.
ECP kits are very expensive and plug with snow. You have to watch for the snow build up under continiously changing conditions. Many riders experienced loss of top speed. Their answer was to turn the motor faster.
A onened air box with 170 mains and a ventury extractor for the crank case breather will give more trail performance than the ECP air kit.
Just my opinion over a season where most of us rode 6000 plus miles and some 10,000 to 13,000 miles. We tried it all.
Here we go again
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Everyone play nice, no BS here :ORC
snowsweat
Pro
I agree with some of the guys who are questioning various mods. Some work, some don't. For some mods, it is very easy to tell if they are working (seats, suspension, carbides). Others, not so easy. Usually, you give up something (fuel mileage, reliability). When someone tells me their kit makes more horsepower or turns higher rpm with stock reliability, they either know little about physics or motors.
snowsweat
Pro
Oops. I forgot to finish the last sentence. How about this: "or they are trying to sell you something."
Mighty
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Fact: User after user have confirmed that both Heavy Hitter clutching calibrated to Matt and Jeffs specs and ECP's air kit work period! Both independently and even better when both are used together
BlueByYou2000 said:Here we go again
Simple question, not trying to start anything here. I do however, detect some people on this board, who seem to have "boltonitis", and I'm trying to find out what works and what is more compromise than benefit.
Mighty
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You will not find a more honest-fact based site on the net then this one right here. Of the many posts I have made I have yet to get any bogus info. The members here are very knowledgeable and are straight shooters.wolfie said:BlueByYou2000 said:Here we go again
I do however, detect some people on this board, who seem to have "boltonitis", and I'm trying to find out what works and what is more compromise than benefit.
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