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Who is running TAPP Primary clutch??

so im thinking you got the short bolt with no washer on your arm and no set screw? on clicker 1 ? and your rpm r 8500 ? is this correct ?
 

the set screws in end of arm are more for lower rpm shift and belt grab, washers on the bolt are for top rpm, the short bolt really doesnt allow for washers, so i would take out the set screws and put the medium bolt in with 4 washers per arm first leave clicker on 1... then if you rpm is low move clicker up.... if its still high ... put long bolt in with 4-6 washers... then go from there... if you get to 5 with the clicker to hit your target rpm... pull 1 washer off each arm and move clicker back to 1 and start again with now 3 washers per bolt or whichever your count is remember always do evenly... all 4 arms or across from each other... keep doing same untill you hit proper rpm with clicker in the 1-3 position then on any given day you can just +/- a click for adjustment of rpm dep on conditions.
 
max rolph said:
the set screws in end of arm are more for lower rpm shift and belt grab, washers on the bolt are for top rpm, the short bolt really doesnt allow for washers, so i would take out the set screws and put the medium bolt in with 4 washers per arm first leave clicker on 1... then if you rpm is low move clicker up.... if its still high ... put long bolt in with 4-6 washers... then go from there... if you get to 5 with the clicker to hit your target rpm... pull 1 washer off each arm and move clicker back to 1 and start again with now 3 washers per bolt or whichever your count is remember always do evenly... all 4 arms or across from each other... keep doing same untill you hit proper rpm with clicker in the 1-3 position then on any given day you can just +/- a click for adjustment of rpm dep on conditions.
Click to expand...
Switch to the medium bolts with 3 washer in all 4 arm , no set screw and clicker at 1....went from 102 to 110 at 8250 on the same surface and same temp ...sounds like im on the good direction, im not sure if the 36 angle is a little to small for the tapp clutch for the final angle ...
 
what rpm should you be running? now adjust clicker to get rpm, unless you are high now, take one washer off, the 36 angle is what most are using prior to the tapp becoming popular... ie stm, ive had suggestions her to go to a 44-43/34-32. because the tap is soo aggressive . chalk or sharpie your clutch to see how high its going in that given distance
 
I run a 46/36 with my TAPP and it works amazing, but I’m running a bit more hp than most
 
if your clutch are shifted out and your at the target rpm andyou need more speed... only way is more gear! thats why i said mark your clutchs to see where belt is... if its only going to 1/2" from top of primary then loosen sec spring one hole and see if it pulls it through and belt goes higher.
 
max rolph said:
if your clutch are shifted out and your at the target rpm andyou need more speed... only way is more gear! thats why i said mark your clutchs to see where belt is... if its only going to 1/2" from top of primary then loosen sec spring one hole and see if it pulls it through and belt goes higher.
Click to expand...
I will try a 46-40 vs a 46-36 and see if the top end can get faster
 
I try to get the difference bettween the oem and tapp clutch .. im not sure those too clutch could run the same angle ....any yammy guy here try the oem yam clutch vs the tapp clutch with the same roller secondary angle ?
 
modsrx said:
I try to get the difference bettween the oem and tapp clutch .. im not sure those too clutch could run the same angle ....any yammy guy here try the oem yam clutch vs the tapp clutch with the same roller secondary angle ?
Click to expand...

Yes, what works with the stock primary works with the TAPP.
 
Im thinking to change my gearing , im running 21-38 maybe i should try 21-39 21-40 .. that clutch doesnt shift like the oem and it sucks ..not sure what to try now .. sled got rpm correct but it doesnt work like it was before with the oem clutch ...backshift is not good and upshift is worst too ...maybe i should go back to a new oem and sale that non performance clutch ....maybe the weight of the clutch is the problems thats why i was thinking to changer gearing
 
Nothing wrong with the TAPP. You have something else going on.
 
modsrx said:
Im thinking to change my gearing , im running 21-38 maybe i should try 21-39 21-40 .. that clutch doesnt shift like the oem and it sucks ..not sure what to try now .. sled got rpm correct but it doesnt work like it was before with the oem clutch ...backshift is not good and upshift is worst too ...maybe i should go back to a new oem and sale that non performance clutch ....maybe the weight of the clutch is the problems thats why i was thinking to changer gearing
Click to expand...

If you have a 1100 Cat turbo I don't think you'll get much for answers here unless a 998 owner had a TAPP on an old 1100 sled. The place you want to be is HCS Cat turbo forum where the 1100 are, or check with Tommcat as he is the 1100 an TAPP guy to get you headed in the right direction. You just need to find the balance with it. Sounds like you are out to lunch on the whole setup. just getting RPM doesn't make it right.

I just threw a TAPP on my sled and two others and they are spot on and work fantastic. All 998's however. TAPP is far better than any of the OEM primaries, other than rough roller axles that eat roller bushings prematurely they are great.

I had a 1100 Cat turbo that used the stock clutch, but can't help you much with it.
 
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