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Will I be happy with this move??? (ZX2 skid)

Ok guys new question----Can someone help me out with this by maybe taking a picture of the rear mount points of your ZX2 skid??? What I am doing is making a 06 Apex mount kit fit a 07 Apex RTX---I got the mount plates in correctly and I got my front arm bolted in place as well. When I whent to bolt the rear arm there was a LARGE gap in between the tunnel and the suspension arm!!! I got looking at my spacers and wonder if I have them either spun backwords or what!!! Now on the small spacers I find that the dimensions are correct when you spin them around and have the "cuped" end facing the tunnel but it seem's to me that there would be no strength there nor is there anything to hold the carrier wheel in place!! Any help/photos/insite would be much appreciated as I am stumped on this!! :dunno:
 

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The cupped part fits inside the opposite of what you have pictured. I just measured my spacers on the rear because I have the suspension out and they measure 1.25" the ones you have look less then a inch? Did it come from a previous yamaha tunnel or something else?

AD uses the spacers compensate for all different width tunnels.
 
It came from a 06 Apex---The front spacers are diffinately correct. The back ones I am starting to believe that they don't even belong with this kit--They fit sloppy on the shaft--They are too short to hold the carrier wheel in place and they are steel instead of Aluminum. Guess I better call ADB and get a set of rear spacers.
 
In my kit and all kits I have installed all 4 spacers are made from aluminum. I recommend talking to ADBoivin and have them send you new ones for the rear shaft.
 
9 or 10 tooth

Hi all

I'm doing the same to my 2007 Apex GT. I'm converting the machine to a 136 at the same time.
So I bought the ZX2 136 with the cobra track.
I want to get the No Slip Drive Sprockets, stock on this machine is the 10 tooth. It seems alot of people are using the 9 tooth.
Should i get the 9 or 10 tooth?
Does any one change their gearing as well?

Thanks for any help
 
I thought the stock drivers were 9 tooth? Double check to be sure!
It depends on if you ever want to run a bigger track. You can just barely fit a 1.5" lug track with 9 tooth drivers. Some may argue you may compress snow and air up front between the track and front exchanger, and actually loose power from it. I want to say I had to remove the tunnel and front exchanger protectors to get a 1.5" lug track to fit.

My personal choice would be to go with the 8 tooth 2.52 pitch extroverts. That way you can put on a 2" track if you ever wanted to. By actually dropping a tooth on the drivers, you are gearing it down slightly. I never changed gears on my sled. I went from 121" to 144", but I had the RTX which came geared slightly lower from the factory to begin with.
 
Thanks for the reply
I checked at Dennis Kirt and it said 10, I'll verify tonight if it's 9 or 10.
I'm only using the 1.25 Cobra so the 9 tooth will work.
 
I just checked the online Yamaha parts fisch for both a 2007 Apex GT and a 2007 Apex RTX.

The part numbers were identical:
8BW-47531-00 Track Drive Inner
8BW-47532-10 Track Drive Outter

I know for a fact my RTX had 9 tooth drivers. Do not use the 10 tooth drivers.

If you go with the 8 tooth, you will be gearing down slightly at the same time and more than likely will not have to change your chain case sprockets.
 
Did I notice a drop, no. Was there one, theoretically...yes. However I never really cared about top speed myself.
The RTX came stock at least one if not two teeth lower geared on the top sprocket compared to the GT.
Going from a 121" to a 144" most people would gear down I assume, but I left mine as is when running a 1.25" lug track.

There are a lot of people more knowledgeable than me on this site that could either support or shoot down this theory, but if you gear down, it is possible you could get more top end. While it seems counterintuitive, there are trains of thought that say by gearing down, you aren't lugging the motor and transmission as much, and it allows you secondary to shift all the way out giving you the highest possible ratio. I know I read somewhere that most factory sleds are over geared from the factory and never achieve full clutch shift. I have never dug into the theory on this personally, but it makes sense to me. I think you will tend to see the topic of over shifting/under shifting come up more on the mountain forums. In that arena, track speed is everything.

I hate to tell people this because I think there is a bad stigma that goes with the title, but I am a degreed mechanical engineer. Far more relevant than that is I call myself a glorified grease monkey. I've turned wrenches most of my life, and the hands on experience is what I tend to dwell on mostly.

I should point out I had two drive axles. one with 9 tooth extroverts for when I run flatlands with a 144" ripsaw, and one with 8 tooth extroverts I would throw in when I did a track swap. I had a custom mount plate assembly I designed and fabricated that allowed me to to set back my suspension. When I went out west I ran a 151" x 2" Camoplast series IV track.
 
I run flatlands up here. You say you run the 9t on the flatlands, any reason. I'm an electrical engineer and probably over thinking this 8t 9t thing. Just don't want to make the wrong choice

Thanks again
 
Thanks for the help guys. I checked and my sled has the 9T sprocket.

I'm going to play it safe and purchase the 9T no slip, but I'm going to drop the top gear from 24T to 23T. This will make it the same as the Attack.

As a side note the ZX2 showed up yesterday, really cool, can't wait to ride.
 
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