Martens199
Expert
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- 2008 Yamaha nytro 153 mcx190
2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
Right side front rail to upper cross bar.
Left side front of rail to upper cross bar
Left side right before anti stab at the end of the rail (no gap)
Right side right before anti stab at front of rails (gap)
Chain case side
Clutch side
Found that the one rail seemed higher than the other today. Although the track walks over to the left and the left rail was the lower one. Weird...
Ding
Lifetime Member
Generally the track walks to the opposite side from the one that causes the track to be tighter at that point.
Martens199
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- 2008 Yamaha nytro 153 mcx190
2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
Yeah that's why when I saw this I got excited, but the left side would be the tighter side (lower rail) and its walking to the left. So this seems irrelevant.
Generally the track walks to the opposite side from the one that causes the track to be tighter at that point.[/Q
On the shaft where upper wheels are on is there still spacers at each wheel? Some had plastic and some had washers. Both have been known to fail. This can cause the upper wheels to be out of position.
Martens199
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- 2008 Yamaha nytro 153 mcx190
2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
Your taking the aluminum spacer between the drop bracket and idler? They look fine.
Martens199
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2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
Rails seem straight.
Ding
Lifetime Member
The front arm might be tweaked somehow, or where it mounts (either end) is egged out. I don't know that skid real well, but looking again at all of these pictures it has to something like this. I would pull the skid and remove the shocks/springs. Then carefully move it through the travel to see if something is amiss. With the front arm laid flat (compressed) it is likely that one side hits the bumper well before the other side.
Martens199
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- 2008 Yamaha nytro 153 mcx190
2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
Yeah that's a good idea. I will try that. It seems to run straight on the drivers on a stand, but once on the ground and driven around the track walks left.The front arm might be tweaked somehow, or where it mounts (either end) is egged out. I don't know that skid real well, but looking again at all of these pictures it has to something like this. I would pull the skid and remove the shocks/springs. Then carefully move it through the travel to see if something is amiss. With the front arm laid flat (compressed) it is likely that one side hits the bumper well before the other side.
"shagman, post: 1253376, member: 21719"After more inspection there is a little wear on the inside of the brake side driver. Here are the measurements.
Chain case side.
Measured from the inner snap ring groove outside edge to edge of driver hub next to shaft with calipers.
New shaft was 5.16", Old shaft was 5.32". I got 5.403
Brake side.
Measured from snap ring groove outside edge to edge of driver hub next to shaft with calipers.
New shaft was 4.535", old shaft was 4.661". I got 4.757
The reason I took the measurements from these locations is that the snap rings center the shaft in the sled and my track was centered well up front from the factory.
After taking measurments and looking over the old shaft and the wear on the drivers I'm going to leave the new ones where they are as it will give more clearance where its worn. Just a note: The wear is very little from what i have seen on other sleds over the years. 5800 miles on sled.
Here is my 8000mi drivers and how I measured which I hope is same as Shagman did. These are obviously worn but have always been tight to middle of track. I will either move them or replace them. Any advice? Never owned a sled with Extroverts before.
Chain case side.
Measured from the inner snap ring groove outside edge to edge of driver hub next to shaft with calipers.
New shaft was 5.16", Old shaft was 5.32". I got 5.403
Brake side.
Measured from snap ring groove outside edge to edge of driver hub next to shaft with calipers.
New shaft was 4.535", old shaft was 4.661". I got 4.757
The reason I took the measurements from these locations is that the snap rings center the shaft in the sled and my track was centered well up front from the factory.
After taking measurments and looking over the old shaft and the wear on the drivers I'm going to leave the new ones where they are as it will give more clearance where its worn. Just a note: The wear is very little from what i have seen on other sleds over the years. 5800 miles on sled.
Here is my 8000mi drivers and how I measured which I hope is same as Shagman did. These are obviously worn but have always been tight to middle of track. I will either move them or replace them. Any advice? Never owned a sled with Extroverts before.
Last edited:
Any luck with yours Martens?Yeah that's a good idea. I will try that. It seems to run straight on the drivers on a stand, but once on the ground and driven around the track walks left.
Martens199
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2015 SRViper mtx se 162 mcx270
No luck yet. I haven't had time to take the skid out yet. Still wearing and vibrating while riding. Frankly just a little fed up at this point. Been measuring and looking at this thing so many times now, but can find anything helpful yet. As for my drivers location on the shaft. Mine seems perfect. Track centered in the tunnel and the drivers and centered in the track eyelets. Only when I drive it, it miss aligns.
Any luck with yours Martens?[/QUO
No luck yet. I haven't had time to take the skid out yet. Still wearing and vibrating while riding. Frankly just a little fed up at this point. Been measuring and looking at this thing so many times now, but can find anything helpful yet. As for my drivers location on the shaft. Mine seems perfect. Track centered in the tunnel and the drivers and centered in the track eyelets. Only when I drive it, it miss aligns.
Well if yours are like mine or better you have nothing to worry about. Looked at a bunch of sleds. My wear is normal. Still worked fine. The track while riding is all over the place. That is also normal. Maybe nothing to worry about?
Freakboy
Newbie
I think the center shock is causing the track to walk all over .cause the shock is #*$&@ it's not keeping the track taut enough
When the skid goes up and down that 110 spring it's all so why the skid bottom s out and to much ski pressure
I'm talking to yamaha about it
When the skid goes up and down that 110 spring it's all so why the skid bottom s out and to much ski pressure
I'm talking to yamaha about it
Freakboy
Newbie
And going to check what holes my skid is set at . you are right there's a problem . the skid bottoms out
And the clips where on the skid and the track walks all over wearing the drivers wearing the track
At the rear skid mounts real bad when side Hilling and making the front heavy. yamaha told me
They will replace my worn skid parts. but that's bull #*$&@. they will fix what's worn . but they need
To fix what's causing the skid and track wear out and I think it's the center shock not keeping
The track tight enough under suspension travel
And the clips where on the skid and the track walks all over wearing the drivers wearing the track
At the rear skid mounts real bad when side Hilling and making the front heavy. yamaha told me
They will replace my worn skid parts. but that's bull #*$&@. they will fix what's worn . but they need
To fix what's causing the skid and track wear out and I think it's the center shock not keeping
The track tight enough under suspension travel
Freakboy
Newbie
If yamaha will not fix what's causing the problems I'm going try zbros shock and spring and four wheel kit
My sled is a 15 viper mtx my ceter shock is coil over the rest are fox floats
My sled is a 15 viper mtx my ceter shock is coil over the rest are fox floats
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