xtx suspension settings

[STAIN]

The big time body roll comes at high speed corners--60mph+-- with soft preload and soft compression settings. Been there.
Didn't say that removing preload would raise front of sled.
Is everyone running thier skis at full width? It does make a difference!!!!
I actually went back to my stock skis with Bergstrom tripple points with great success. These skis an't as bad as everyone says for TRAIL riding, I don't care what you say. I might be putting my brand X skis back on my RX

 

[mewaschuk]

only have 300 mile so far but so far have. Coming from Doo ZX chassis short track. I'm ~200lbs with gear.

FRONT: 4.75" gap from spring nut to under side of upper "dummy lock ring. 8 click for from hard compression. Stock ski w/ Stud Boy Deuce bars.
REAR: Just swtiched from Med to Soft on the torsion spring. Just bounced around. Limiter strap stock, full out. Transfer rod, max coupling.


Comments: Med rear spring was so stiff there was no compression. Need to lean out a decent amount (AKA "active rider") i cant see any way around this with the high profile of this sled. But active riding, the sled handles pretty good. Not too much sttering effort, no bottomoing out yet.

 

[**sj**]

SJ....."The XTX Whisperer"

I can't wait to try these setting. Just need some snow after this massive January thaw!!!

-Dog-

not at all...just a yamisquirrel trying to get a nut...trying to make it better for my fellow ty brotheren!

 

[**sj**]

remember...rider weight is more profound with these sleds as they carry more weight over the skis than most other sleds...

removing front preload lowers the fron of the sled...and once the compression is set properly will rail the best this sled can all things being equal...

imho my skis (simmons) or pilots...or pilot 6.9's or powderhounds with ski savers and shapers are the setup for this sled...def needs a wider ski

wewaschick...with your torsion set to soft..was your compression on full stiff? if not as you are bounding around you should be adding compression until its run out of effect...then next step would be medium with low compression again....adding it as you go away til the bounce is gone...

this is assuming you are avg weight around 210? and have increased your center shock spring setting?

 

[**sj**]

as one of my followers (private skledfreak) has said...
the yam shock guy should be fired...

in my opinion the valving and spring rates are all screwed up...
the front springs need to be softer or a softer initial valving (take the compression out to start and add back in to taste) sure dual or triple rate springs are nice...but it pisses me off to even think I need to spend that kind of coin on a new sled....
second the center shock is valved to soft and non linear...those who said they are bouncing I hope you will try the center spring adjustment...and if you are 250 plus considering the stronger spring...
most of the handling woes revolve around the center shock/spring problem...if this shock is collapsing too easily you will have poor ride and heavy steering

 

[sgilbert]

The big time body roll comes at high speed corners--60mph+-- with soft preload and soft compression settings. Been there.
Didn't say that removing preload would raise front of sled.
Is everyone running thier skis at full width? It does make a difference!!!!
I actually went back to my stock skis with Bergstrom tripple points with great success. These skis an't as bad as everyone says for TRAIL riding, I don't care what you say. I might be putting my brand X skis back on my RX

agreed, with as soft as I have front set to tame low speed with these simmons, I can see stiffer sway bar

 

[**sj**]

move your link to the front hole and increase your compression on the front shocks a bit ...a wider ski will be helpful as well...

 

[sgilbert]

move your link to the front hole and increase your compression on the front shocks a bit ...a wider ski will be helpful as well...

sway link?

 

[**sj**]

yessir none of these adjustments are the panacea..

small changes that add up...add a more "active" rider and you can have good handling..

 

[sgilbert]

I didn't even notice that other hole till now. dont see that changing anything, its the same distance from a arm pivot. whats the yamaha reason for the other hole?

 

[**sj**]

increases the swaybars stiffness/point of action

 

[sgilbert]

with the tie link between sway and arm, dont see the ratio changing. Am I missing something?

 

[mewaschuk]

wewaschick...with your torsion set to soft..was your compression on full stiff? if not as you are bounding around you should be adding compression until its run out of effect...then next step would be medium with low compression again....adding it as you go away til the bounce is gone...

this is assuming you are avg weight around 210? and have increased your center shock spring setting?

compression at orig setting (cant remember the click count). center shock orig setting as well. compression adj is the next round of tweeks. thanks!

 

[**sj**]

guys the compression needs to be adjusted at the same time as the other adjustments...they are a big part of the valving which opposes the spring you are adjusting...when you are "bouncing" you need to remove the compression until you start to blow through the stroke then add in some compression til you find the sweet spot..
one issue for most is the amount of adjustability makes the combinations truly confusing

 

[STAIN]

You can also adjust for " bouncing " with your rebound adjustment