ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
SledFreak said:
So do I, consider it the start of a good setup for hard play.....
gomer
Extreme
Loose is fast!! Sorry, had to. Really though, I like to be able to throw/slide mine into a sharp corner. Also nice if it starts to push some to be able to whack it, and get the sled to rotate some.
chaseme25
Veteran
Here's a PDF of the settings I used. They are based largely off of SJ's posts. My sled handles and rides great now. These settings are a great baseline setup. This is also under the Suspension Settings sticky along with the spreadsheet if anyone wants to update it.
jteets3
Newbie
Amen htlo1r!! Cannot believe anyone would want to make this thing harder, your killing yourself if you do. I can't get the suspension soft enough but i don't ride on the trials either. I got the feeling i'm after now but it kills hi-fax in a hurry 4th set in 2000 miles and thats in deep snow. Putting an Ezryde under it soon tired of spending money on poor engineering
sr12345
Extreme
I have an 09 XTX, and it's the first sled I've owned. I weigh about 215 lbs, and ride mostly trails. On a recent club ride, I was having difficulty keeping up with other riders through moguled trails, and seemed to be getting thrown up and down more than they were. While on the ride, I only felt the rear bottom out a time or two at speed across some of these bumps.
On the rear suspension, can someone please provide a brief explanation on what the following do, and what ride problem they solve:
- Limiter straps
- Frontmost rear shock
- Rearmost rear shock
- Torsion spring
- Transfer bars (are these the two heavy round bars going down towards the next-to-last wheel on the skid?)
My current rear setup is:
- the limiter straps at the longest (stock) setting,
- the frontmost rear shock preload almost at full,
the knob on the rearmost rear shock is 6 clicks in (or out)--in other words, midway
-I just found out my torsion springs were Heavy on one side, Medium on the other. I've now set them both to Soft.
-With no rider on the sled, from the jam nut to the cylinder the transfer rods (?) feed into, I have about 3/4" of rod showing.
And the front setup is the compression and rebound knobs on the front backed way out, with the front springs pre-loaded about 3/4 of the way down.
Can someone suggest changes to make to my setup to improve the ride over bumps for group trail riding? I find the sled has a real tendency to push in soft snow at low speed, unless I hang my weight way out. Thanks for your help.
On the rear suspension, can someone please provide a brief explanation on what the following do, and what ride problem they solve:
- Limiter straps
- Frontmost rear shock
- Rearmost rear shock
- Torsion spring
- Transfer bars (are these the two heavy round bars going down towards the next-to-last wheel on the skid?)
My current rear setup is:
- the limiter straps at the longest (stock) setting,
- the frontmost rear shock preload almost at full,
the knob on the rearmost rear shock is 6 clicks in (or out)--in other words, midway
-I just found out my torsion springs were Heavy on one side, Medium on the other. I've now set them both to Soft.
-With no rider on the sled, from the jam nut to the cylinder the transfer rods (?) feed into, I have about 3/4" of rod showing.
And the front setup is the compression and rebound knobs on the front backed way out, with the front springs pre-loaded about 3/4 of the way down.
Can someone suggest changes to make to my setup to improve the ride over bumps for group trail riding? I find the sled has a real tendency to push in soft snow at low speed, unless I hang my weight way out. Thanks for your help.
take all the preload and compression out of the front...with the sled in the air....loosen the front shock springs til they rattle...then tighten a tad...move the swaybar link to the forward hole...
center spring spring ....if it gets too tight it will destroy the spring to shock ratio and ride ....when you say preload you are saying the tightest in the range the owners manual states?
ski mount with both spacers to outside helps some but most of the push you describe is the crap skis...throw a set of simmons on it and be done..
last ...start out with all the compression out of the rear skid shock...and add to taste...
transfer should be at 1/3rd to 1/2 with the more choosen loosening the front end more in the twisties
center spring spring ....if it gets too tight it will destroy the spring to shock ratio and ride ....when you say preload you are saying the tightest in the range the owners manual states?
ski mount with both spacers to outside helps some but most of the push you describe is the crap skis...throw a set of simmons on it and be done..
last ...start out with all the compression out of the rear skid shock...and add to taste...
transfer should be at 1/3rd to 1/2 with the more choosen loosening the front end more in the twisties
nre
Newbie
where should i set my center shock to start out? im 310 with all my gear on.
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[/quote]nre said:
Im fairly certain there is a stiffer spring at the least...
If I was you Id have the center shock revalved and resprung by pioneer and the rear revalved as well
nre
Newbie
it rides well now i just want a little less steering force and darting. i know new skis would help im trying to do it the chea way for the rest of the season. center shock spring is about half way, should i try half of that?
tighten the spring a bit more...loosen your front shock springs,,,,verify slight toe out....if you have your torsion on hard...try a bit of riding on med with middle compression on the rear shock..
sgilbert
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I've got mine about right. rear torsions on med. front of rear tuned up 3 or 4 threads from stock, which made a huge difference in steering effort. have simmons with spacers at full wide which somehow also reduced steering effort. now just make very minor spring adjustments on front shocks. the steering relocate made a huge difference in being able to muscle it. this thing rails with very little steering input. riding behind my buddy with an fx shorty, whatching his stock skis push around corners with them fully turned, I'm tucking his flap with very little steering input, goes exactly where pointed with no darting at all. also can turn circles inside his circles. never thought a longtrack could handle this great
fyi there was some question as to the transfer rods and their relation to ride....when no transfer is tuned in ....the suspension is coupled which means both shocks move for hits (better for big bumps)...and the slide rail stays relatively flat...the upside to this is pretty much no bottoming and the ability to reduce or totally eliminate any ski lift in the corners ....the downside is obviously poor hookup when racing and I believe some loss in top end...(along with a firmer ride and feel of the stutters and trail chatter)
on the other extreme is total transfer...trmendous squat and hookup... increased top speed...the shock have the ability to work independantly (smoother in stutters and trail chatter) but the negative being inside ski lift in the twisties..you can dial out some of the inside ski lift for this temporary setting with more compression on the front shocks ...
along with my other settings be willing to adjust these to suit your riding style ...
on the other extreme is total transfer...trmendous squat and hookup... increased top speed...the shock have the ability to work independantly (smoother in stutters and trail chatter) but the negative being inside ski lift in the twisties..you can dial out some of the inside ski lift for this temporary setting with more compression on the front shocks ...
along with my other settings be willing to adjust these to suit your riding style ...
nre
Newbie
Thanks I will try that this after noon and let you know, I have most of that right so far, I will try the center shock and see what that dose for me. Its already way better than when I got it.
keep it going
saythey
Extreme
I just tried to have my front springs loose and without rattle. The problem is the front end will always bottom out coming over a big approach. I tried all adjustments on the comp and rebound. I even turned the spring to max and comp all in and it will still bottom out the odd time.
