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xtx suspension settings

sgilbert said:
here I am trying to figure out how to keep steering light and have aggressive handling, then looked over the posted pics of the race sled. what if one was to make tie rod mount extensions like on race sled. lose a few inches of steering but have much better steering leverage. might work with these simmons there is absolutley no oversteer even with front springs at minimum, meaning it turns aggresively with smallest amount of steering input

That was my first thought when I noticed the tie rod extensions... A nice opportunity for after market companies, surprised no one has jumped on it yet.
 

Pull the limiter 1 hole tighter from stock and you will not need to change the centre spring !!!!!!!
 
if you pull it tighter you'd have more ski pressure...seems most are trying to eliminate ski pressure...
 
It will lower the c of g of the sled let it corner flat , allowing you to run less front spring, and use the`compression dampening to stop body roll.
Also lets you get deeper into the sway bar !
 
gsxr...
ran the simmons today with both spacers on the outside...added the thin washer between the spindle and mount shoe to keep it from sanding away...was tight but fit...went with center hole...great!
 
made my own steering relocate out of lawnmower parts. we'll call it the O.F.U.C.K. relocate kit. also at same time studded114, turned front of rear up alot and made spindle/tie rod extensions like on race sled. made it 10mi/one beer stop and removed extensions. scratch that idea. steering efort was nothing, but the amount of input for minor corrections was way too unnaturel/scary. would say stock ratio is just right. raising front/of rear spring pressure helped alot. think went a little too, far and plan to go back a little. could probably sneek ski pressure up a little.the relocate I did is coppied from oft and like that alot. very natural feel. my buddies shorty is fine without it, but definitly helped muscle the long track
 
scmurs said:
sgilbert said:
made my own steering relocate out of lawnmower parts. we'll call it the O.F.U.C.K. relocate kit.

This sounds a little scary. Anything against buying one from us?

Had to ask.

scmurs

www.oftracing.com
no nothing against buying and still may. what I made is nowhere as light durable or safe, was there and wanted to try it. not one of those guys that will buy anything just to try. kind of like the tierod mounts I made, complete waste and hated it, now I know.....
 
the other reason I made mine is was looking to relocate, not replace. plastic blocks were fine and like on my apex, drilled and grease, they are smooth as silk and I'm sure do a better job at absorbing vibration etc. also drilled the a arms and greased, no more squeek
 
Loosening the preload (front end) helps this sled in reguards to handling. Backing off the compression and rebound to min does not work. I bottomed out the front end on a smooth groomed trail. I set it back to standard as in the manuel, which works way better. IMO, you need to tighten the limiter 1 hole position and put transfer to a min or somewhere between min and the mid point to get it to rail. Yes, the front end will be heavier, but you will have to live with it. After market spring and shock calibration is what this sled needs ,as well as, a 43" ski stance. As far as the heavy steering, I have not heard alot about heavy steering with this sled as most are complaining that it just does not turn and high sides, which does not roll the sled through the Apex of the corner. That is the real problem with this sled. The handling is what it is, junk.....
 
sorry andy...must be partly due to your lightweight or everyone elses regular weight 200lbs + - yes my shocks are revalved...but Ive got the fronts all the way out and loose springs...stiff center...and soft torsion with little compression...yesterday I moved the simmons skis all the way wide..both spacers outside...sled was on rails ....at higher speeds on the lake too!

the idea is to take all the spring and compression away except for the center(which is adjusted to your weight) and add spring and some compression in for weight and riding style to taste...
 
SledFreak, minimizing transfer also maximizes coupling on this skid, right? If that's the case, I think that's an exellent way of civilizing a nasty/grabby front end in the corners. Betting you noticed the rear sliding around a little more on occasion as well as part of that move?
 
SJ....thanks for the post. It got me in the ballpark and I tweaked from there. I put in 171 studs and C&A Razors this fall and it threw the balance I had right out the window. Take his advice fellow TY'ers, his setup may not be perfect for you, but it's a great baseline to start from. You will actually feel the difference a click makes. Cheers
 
ahicks said:
SledFreak, minimizing transfer also maximizes coupling on this skid, right? If that's the case, I think that's an exellent way of civilizing a nasty/grabby front end in the corners. Betting you noticed the rear sliding around a little more on occasion as well as part of that move?

Yes, but I like it loose....
 
SXRPILOT said:
SJ....thanks for the post. It got me in the ballpark and I tweaked from there. I put in 171 studs and C&A Razors this fall and it threw the balance I had right out the window. Take his advice fellow TY'ers, his setup may not be perfect for you, but it's a great baseline to start from. You will actually feel the difference a click makes. Cheers

glad to hear....these buggers just need a bot of tuning to get them closer to the way they should be..
 


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