06vectorgt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Should the rest of us pull the bolts for inspection?
I suppose it couldn't hurt anyhow, loctite with #242?
I suppose it couldn't hurt anyhow, loctite with #242?
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I would definitely look at that very particular bolt identified in the picture. Try to loosen it with a socket and check it out. Then loctite red, which I think is 242.
BADSLED
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I know the Expert X skids were known for shearing bolts as well...
SnoWarrior
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Grimm, what spacer are you talking about?
The only thing that was missing on mne was a flat washer on the inside between the shaft and the rail mount. I bought a 1/4" x 1-1/2" fender washer and drilled it out for the bolt size. It was the same thickness as the washer on the other side.
And yes I used red loctite on both bolts.
I don't think the bolt would have sheered if it didn't back out.
The only thing that was missing on mne was a flat washer on the inside between the shaft and the rail mount. I bought a 1/4" x 1-1/2" fender washer and drilled it out for the bolt size. It was the same thickness as the washer on the other side.
And yes I used red loctite on both bolts.
I don't think the bolt would have sheered if it didn't back out.
06vectorgt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
SnoWarrior said:I don't think the bolt would have sheered if it didn't back out.
I was wondering if this hardware needed to be replaced with a Grade 8.
Any thoughts about this?
SnoWarrior
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06vectorgt said:SnoWarrior said:I don't think the bolt would have sheered if it didn't back out.
I was wondering if this hardware needed to be replaced with a Grade 8.
Any thoughts about this?
I don't think so. I really beat the crap out of the skid for 2 days straight. I usually don't ride that aggressive, just thought I would give it a good test.
If those bolts were going to break, they would have done it then. The one I had break backed out half way before it snapped. (no loctite on that one) If it had not come loose, it would not have broken off.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
SnoWarrior said:Grimm, what spacer are you talking about?
The only thing that was missing on mne was a flat washer on the inside between the shaft and the rail mount.
On top of the aforementioned washer, the round bushing that is set inside the rail is missing. It's about a half inch thick and the bolts passes through this bushing, through the rail and then through another round bushing, then the washer and into the shaft for the front arm. On the parts diagram for the suspension, it is labeled as part #3, aluminum spacer.
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Mine is ok. I look at them to day, still tight. I will look to see if my washers are there. Thanks for the info
SnoWarrior
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Ok Grimm, Thanks. My spacer was still in the rail. I also checked the rubber stops on the revolver, and they were fine.
Jeff\ADBoivin
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Guys, Don't back off the bolt, just re-torque them to the proper torque as a safety.
If it move when you re-torque, Then back it of and use locktite again.
The Torque for every bolts, except the track adjustement at the back, is 50 FT/Pounds.
Second, We use Red locktite, so no, the 242 blue is not enought.
also, i had a couple phone call on the rubber pieces inside the revolver coming apart. Make sure you push enought with the wrench before putting your pin in.
Read the manuel, there is some position where you can't put the pin at the same time.
Guys, Don't back off the bolt, just re-torque them to the proper torque as a safety.
If it move when you re-torque, Then back it of and use locktite again.
The Torque for every bolts, except the track adjustement at the back, is 50 FT/Pounds.
Second, We use Red locktite, so no, the 242 blue is not enought.
also, i had a couple phone call on the rubber pieces inside the revolver coming apart. Make sure you push enought with the wrench before putting your pin in.
Read the manuel, there is some position where you can't put the pin at the same time.
kinger
VIP Member
Re: AD Boivin
Jeff - it clearly states in the manual that the rear axle is to be locktite and tq'ed to 50 ft-lbs. What spec should it be?
Jeff\ADBoivin said:The Torque for every bolts, except the track adjustement at the back, is 50 FT/Pounds.
Read the manuel, there is some position where you can't put the pin at the same time.
Jeff - it clearly states in the manual that the rear axle is to be locktite and tq'ed to 50 ft-lbs. What spec should it be?
Roadrunner
Expert
Re: AD Boivin
Track adjustment and rear axle are two different bolts.
kinger said:Jeff\ADBoivin said:The Torque for every bolts, except the track adjustement at the back, is 50 FT/Pounds.
Read the manuel, there is some position where you can't put the pin at the same time.
Jeff - it clearly states in the manual that the rear axle is to be locktite and tq'ed to 50 ft-lbs. What spec should it be?
Track adjustment and rear axle are two different bolts.
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Was in Canada this weekend and EXACTLY the same thing happened to me. Bolt backed out and sheered off. Was lucky enough to get it back to the hotel and extract the broken piece and replace with a temporary bolt.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Shane, on the extracted broken bolt, was there loctite on it?
06vectorgt
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Pulled both bolts on mine today - they had traces of gray colored junk on them, if that's loctite I have never seen anything like it.
I Red Loctited them and re-installed @ 50ft/lb's
This bolt problem is BS along with all the other lack of support I see from ADB!
I Red Loctited them and re-installed @ 50ft/lb's
This bolt problem is BS along with all the other lack of support I see from ADB!
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