mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Grimm said:It's a pretty simple fix. Here's how I did it. Do one side at a time.
- Raise the rear of the sled off the ground to release pressure on the suspension so that the pivot arm won't move when removing the bolts.
- Remove the pins on the revolver plate.
- Remove the bolt holding the pivot arm.
- Remove the smaller machine screw (I think you need a 5mm allen key to do this). Releasing the track tension granted me easier access to this screw, as I found it difficult to get my hand on inside of the rail. I slipped my hand in between the track and the slider.
- Remove the revolver plate.
- Replace the rubber bushing(s). They just slip into place. I found only one bushing on each side that was mushed up. It was the one where the pin can be set on positions 3,4 or 5.
- Replace all parts in reverse order. Make sure that the fender washer between the rail and the pivot arm shaft hasn't slipped out of place or all together. Be sure to use red loctite on the pivot arm bolt and torque is to spec, 50 ft/lbs I believe.
I haven't ridden yet since my install to see if they'll last. I have a feeling they won't as the bushings don't feel durable.
Another R&D failure.... I guess it could be worse. I will be on the lookout for these.
Question though, if you guys are using red loctite on these bolts and may need to replace the bushings again how will you remove the bolts? Will enough torque still release these bolts with the strong loctite?
thegrizzly1
Lifetime Member
Yes, you should still be able to back the bolts off with enough torque even with loktite applied. Make sure you use the correct size socket, and on this application I would suggest a 6 point socket to loosen. A rounded off head would really suck at this point.
You bring up a really interesting point though. Not really a good way to heat the shaft through all that plastic!
You bring up a really interesting point though. Not really a good way to heat the shaft through all that plastic!
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
I haven't required heat to loosen the bolt yet.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
thegrizzly1 said:Yes, you should still be able to back the bolts off with enough torque even with loktite applied. Make sure you use the correct size socket, and on this application I would suggest a 6 point socket to loosen. A rounded off head would really suck at this point.
You bring up a really interesting point though. Not really a good way to heat the shaft through all that plastic!
Exactly! It makes for quite the looks at the hardware when you ask about red loctite removal on a PLASTIC snowmobile suspension!
192 Woodys
Pro
Don't have replacements yet and am supposed to leave for a short trip on Friday. Only have one that is a bit mushed up, everything else looks good. Should I have any worries about a 200 or so mile trip on (hopefully) groomed trails.
Jeff\ADBoivin
Extreme
Hi guys,
The rubber Pieces in the Revolver is only there for noise perpest. you can run with out it and it will be ok.
The suspension will be quieter with it. i am testing a stiff rubber right now. i should have it out soone.
So no worry about the pieces of rubber in the revolver.
The rubber Pieces in the Revolver is only there for noise perpest. you can run with out it and it will be ok.
The suspension will be quieter with it. i am testing a stiff rubber right now. i should have it out soone.
So no worry about the pieces of rubber in the revolver.
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