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ZX2 set ups

Vector--what revolver position?
 

Stain, I'm @ 2 & 4 - Now that I got it working pretty good I worry about getting stranded due to this hardware issue. I guess I'm going to install stainless steel hardware at these critical points and be done with it. Sure wish ADB would step up and resolve all the issues people are bringing up!
 
Gentlemen,

Although I have not yet heard back from Jeff or Dennis, I can tell you it is not a hardware issue at all. It simply a loctite/proper torque issue. I noticed the bolt sheered on my sled while on an 800 mile ride in Canada last weekend. I have no idea how long it was broken for, but I can tell you I rode over some pretty nasty stuff for nearly 50 miles after discovering the problem and I was not babying it all. When I removed the bolt on the other side it showed no signs of wear whatsoever and neither did the suspension itself. If you have not lost this bolt yet, i would simply recommend that you remove both bolts, clean the threads on a bench grinder with wire wheel, clean the threads on the cross shaft and re-install at proper torque.

This weekend I ended up riding with a gentleman who recently sold his injection molding business. I asked him about the X2 and its strength and durability. Although he is not familiar with the particular laminate schedules and composites used but he did say that plastics are equally strong or stronger than steel.

I do agree that Boivin should address this issue on here as a course of good business. The quality and strength of this suspension is yet to be realized. It breaks all conventional wisdom in sled set up and ride quality. It will just take time to find what combination of settings works best for each individual application.

Shane
 
AD Boivin / ZX-2

hi guys,

if you get kick back or feel the suspension is to hard, Check your track tension. You are probably to thigh. Run it until it skip and then go 1 turn to tigh it up,
if this does not change anything, uncouple the revolver system with the pins. it does not matter where you are, just uncouple from where your at.
if you are allready fully uncouple, drop the front of the sled a bit with your fron t spring.

all this should make a big difference.
 
by uncouple do you mean remove the pins completely?
 
I agree with you Shane. That is what I have been saying all along, the bolt did not sheer on its own. It backed out from no loctite, then broke off.

No do not remove pins. If you are set on hole #3, go to #4. If on #4, try #5. That is the coupling adjustment.

Also I don't think stainless hardware will make any difference. It might be worse, as I think stainless is more brittle than steel bolts. (Someone might know better than me.)

I am going to Old Forge area Friday morning to ride. I just have to check track tension again. Does not get cold enough here to get a good measurement. Will post more on ride set up when I get back.

So far on the settings of #4 and 2,4, it has ridden great. (215 undressed, without a beer in my hand)

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:
 
I know that the revolver is the coupler adjustment be he said UN-couple the skid [?] Does this mean to COMPLETLY uncouple? Kind of like removing the rear blocks from an arctic cat or polaris skid or just decrease the current coupling set up? I have seen people uncouple other skids before and didn't know if that what he was saying.
Snowwarrior you are at 2/4 on the revolver and 4 on your springs, correct? I rode yesterday at 1/4 revolver and 4 on my springs. Should try 2/4
 
Yea I have it set at 2-4. I will also try it at 2-5. 1 is for drag racing, and give you very little transfer. Did you have trouble keeping your skis on the ground at 1?
I will also try the shocks at 3 and see if it is too soft. Like I said, I am happy with the way it rode, just want to see the difference in settings.

:yam: :4STroke: :rocks:
 
Sorry, I meant 2/3 not 1/4. --Man I'm loosing it!!
 
SnoWarrior, IMO, you are lying about your weight if you on the scale without a beer in your hand.
 
Jeff, your comments on uncoupling for better ride are the opposite to what the manual says.

In the manual its says that #3 provides most coupling and plushy ride where as #5 is for light coupling and the suspension is less smooth.

Please clarify.
 
62crusr said:
Jeff, your comments on uncoupling for better ride are the opposite to what the manual says.

In the manual its says that #3 provides most coupling and plushy ride where as #5 is for light coupling and the suspension is less smooth.

Please clarify.
Click to expand...

I think the manual has some verbiage backwards. For instance it says that for drag racing you want most ski pressure and less transfer/coupling etc.
 
Revolver 2/4
Dennis told me to make sure front arms are parallel as possible. Did that. He also said to start with the preload at 0. Instead I started at 3 because I'm a "tough guy" and ride silly hard! Track tension in the 70 degree shop he told me to make it tight, which I did.
First 100 miles seemed stiff, but grinned ear to ear at the vast improvement over the no-action unit. Next day the trails got beaten up so I changed the preload to 0. Looked for every bump I could find and nailed it and it refused to bottom.
Well this ended a great day when my drive axle snapped. Replaced that and loosened up the track because my dealer said that he's seen axles break because of a track being too tight. By the way, even when the track was at it's tightest, the track and sled rolled better than the no-action ever did, awesome. It now ratchets so I will align and try one more turn of tightness next time I head north.
It still seems a bit stiff. I wonder if I'm too low on the preload and into the "hard" range of the shock, didn't cross my mind until I read this post. What do you guys think?
I didn't change the revolver because the transfer is perfect, just the right amount where I can lift the skis if I want, but not so much that it affects my steering input. Fun. Coupling from what the manual says is where it should be for the majority of my riding. I will try a different setting though for Sh*#s and giggles. Overall, best investment made for this sled.
Handling is better than ever with this setup. It carves and is comfortable. I can only imagine if I had a set of real shocks up front instead of my 4 year old stock ones which I still haven't found out if they are rebuildable or not. Will keep you guys posted on the setup. Good luck!
 
yammi said:
Revolver 2/4
Dennis told me to make sure front arms are parallel as possible. Did that. He also said to start with the preload at 0. Instead I started at 3 because I'm a "tough guy" and ride silly hard! Track tension in the 70 degree shop he told me to make it tight, which I did.
First 100 miles seemed stiff, but grinned ear to ear at the vast improvement over the no-action unit. Next day the trails got beaten up so I changed the preload to 0. Looked for every bump I could find and nailed it and it refused to bottom.
Well this ended a great day when my drive axle snapped. Replaced that and loosened up the track because my dealer said that he's seen axles break because of a track being too tight. By the way, even when the track was at it's tightest, the track and sled rolled better than the no-action ever did, awesome. It now ratchets so I will align and try one more turn of tightness next time I head north.
It still seems a bit stiff. I wonder if I'm too low on the preload and into the "hard" range of the shock, didn't cross my mind until I read this post. What do you guys think?
I didn't change the revolver because the transfer is perfect, just the right amount where I can lift the skis if I want, but not so much that it affects my steering input. Fun. Coupling from what the manual says is where it should be for the majority of my riding. I will try a different setting though for Sh*#s and giggles. Overall, best investment made for this sled.
Handling is better than ever with this setup. It carves and is comfortable. I can only imagine if I had a set of real shocks up front instead of my 4 year old stock ones which I still haven't found out if they are rebuildable or not. Will keep you guys posted on the setup. Good luck!
Click to expand...

I'm at 98 kgs or 215 lbs fully dress and ready to rock. I have my preload set at 5 as the manual says for a guy at my weight beeing an aggressive rider. You beeing "silly fast" should be at 4-5 if you weigh anywhere close to my weight. I have made about the same observasions as you have, I still have to find anything bad enough to bottom the skid out. I also put in a set of Fox Floats up front for this season, the stockers had 10000 kms or 6200 miles on them so I changed them out.
 
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