06 Apex won't start,turns over-sputters,checked usual causes

[helmic]

Starting problem

I had the same problem last year with my 07 Apex GT and like MrSled said it sounds like the stator. When I would go for a ride and stop at a rest area and it would be time to go it would turn over but would not start and I did all the same checks you did. Then we would pull it to the trailer once in the trailer I would try it and it would sputter and start. It work fine as long as I keep it starter. But If I would stop it, there was no starting. I would wait for 20 to 30 min and try it again and it would start. It was the crank position sensor that had a intermittent fault and I didn't have any code. When this happens and its the stator that is faulty the fire to the plugs is very weak, that's why yours would start with ether. My two cents..

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Ditto on the CPS or stator which are changed as a unit.

 

[Glacierrr]

I believe it's stator or rather the crank position sensor as we'll... It really causes different problems and doe not always give codes. Not that big of a job to replace but one caution... The oem part comes as a unit both stator and crank position sensor. I found aftermarket much cheaper and installed..still no start! It was clearance for sensor that was off little less then one millimetre! Had to file open the mounting holes a tiny little bit and it was fine. If you use aftermarket just make sure to measure your original spacing of sensor and make sure the new one is the same. Save you from having to do it twice like me.

When sensor is not working properly the ECM does not fire the coils and when intermitent it causes weak spark etc... I am willing to bet that is your problem.

 

[Team-Yamaha]

UPDATE: Thanks for all the comments, certainly appreciated! And you're right on the money! Took it to the dealer who ran diagnostics and confirmed it's the STATOR.
His exact write up was:
"Checked codes. Had four, erased & crank again. No codes came back. Checked flywheel timing. Ok. Checked fuel pressure. Ok. Compression Ok. Checked codes again. #12 came up again. Removed front cover, airbox 7 stator wiring. Tested crank position sensor. Very high resistance. Checked harness for chaffing. Ok. (stator) Needs replacing."
Part # 8FP-81410-02-00 SGTATOR
Part # 8FA-15461-01-00 GSKT
I will be installing these myself and hopefully that resolves the problem.

 

[snowbiscuit]

hand warmers and other mods

Good chance our mods are factoring in on these failers? Would be interesting to know if stators have failed on stock sleds. Have close to 11k on 06 RTX and have warmers wired in parallel, knock on wood, all is good. But I have never gone above four bars and only keep it there for a short time

 

[apex55]

Re: hand warmers and other mods

Good chance our mods are factoring in on these failers? Would be interesting to know if stators have failed on stock sleds. Have close to 11k on 06 RTX and have warmers wired in parallel, knock on wood, all is good. But I have never gone above four bars and only keep it there for a short time

I'm stock, but with the same warmers wiring. My stator sensor failed at 8600 miles. I replaced the sensor only and not the whole stator. I never go over 3 bars. Did the wire thing 2 years ago.
Sleds an 06 ER

 

[apex55]

I would think if this wiring was the problem it would have been my stator and not the sensor.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

Mine failed on stock sled 3 yrs ago.

 

[RTX]

I would think if this wiring was the problem it would have been my stator and not the sensor.

I agree with you. When mine failed it was the pickup, not the actual stator. Since its sold as a complete assy i purchased a stator.

 

[apex55]

I found a replacement sensor. had to open the holes to get it in the right position, but they stated that when I bought it.
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... ickup-coil

 

[MrSled]

I have never seen an actually Stator fail... but in past few years I have seen piles of Crank Sensors Fail that required the entire stator to be replaced. Its good to know and see that someone finally is making just the part that fails to help save some time money.

If someone gets time maybe make up a step by step replacing part poperly could really help those that dont have the confidence or lack experience.

Or if someone needs help in the area I would do it for them to make the write up.

 

[RTX]

I have never seen an actually Stator fail... but in past few years I have seen piles of Crank Sensors Fail that required the entire stator to be replaced. Its good to know and see that someone finally is making just the part that fails to help save some time money.

Pretty sure you can buy the sensor direct from yamaha part # 5VY-85896-00-00
Like i said, pretty sure but not positive this is the correct part #

 

[CaptCaper]

I found a replacement sensor. had to open the holes to get it in the right position, but they stated that when I bought it.
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... ickup-coil

Did you solder the wires? is that how you intergrated it? I don't believe Yamaha has a plug in connection for it.

Also on a side note. I have a Yamaheater now for thousands of miles and no issues. My machine has a total of 10k now. It may go tomorrow who knows.
But I always WD 40 every connection during the season and right at the end. I learned how WD did wonders when I lived on the Ocean for years. Keeping a solid electrical circuit is important for all the parts working. Maybe keeping a good battery in and charged helps too.

 

[Team-Yamaha]

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED

Installed the stator, fired right up. Had it out for a test drive last 2 days - no problems.

Ready to ride!
Lights seem brighter as a bonus.

Thanks again

 

[apex55]

I found a replacement sensor. had to open the holes to get it in the right position, but they stated that when I bought it.
http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... ickup-coil

Did you solder the wires? is that how you intergrated it? I don't believe Yamaha has a plug in connection for it.

Yes. I cut the wires in the inside of the cover and soldered the new sensor wires to these, then pulled the new sensor wire thru the rubber boot. Once thru I recut the wires and adjusted the length, added shrink tubing to each wire and one larger tube to cover both, resoldered added dielectric grease to the joints and heated the shrink tubing. This sensor require using the original plug as well as opening the holes to bring the sensor closer to the stator.