coldrunning
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But first, left rear idler wheel fell off (in my driveway, luckily). Will need to check and grease all bearings and replace this wheel I think. Looks like the original wheels are integral with bearings, but newer ones may have separate bearings. Thanks again gentlemen.
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2011 apex xtx
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1997 et410t/r
1988 vk 540
if the outer side of the wheels look like this,
those are not serviceable for the bearings. any one for the 11 apex xtx rear fits on there and does have a replaceable bearing. the old aluminum wheels had a replaceable/serviceable bearing. i tend to repack or a least check them every year on all my sleds. the high milage trail sleds need repacking almost every year. the yard putters/work sleds end up getting repacked/replaced every 3-5 years on average based on useage.
if you haven't repacked/replaced it yet, i would look at the speedo bearing as those need repacking/inspection every year. i hate walking so i repack them every year.
those are not serviceable for the bearings. any one for the 11 apex xtx rear fits on there and does have a replaceable bearing. the old aluminum wheels had a replaceable/serviceable bearing. i tend to repack or a least check them every year on all my sleds. the high milage trail sleds need repacking almost every year. the yard putters/work sleds end up getting repacked/replaced every 3-5 years on average based on useage.
if you haven't repacked/replaced it yet, i would look at the speedo bearing as those need repacking/inspection every year. i hate walking so i repack them every year.
coldrunning
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Haha, yes walking can be a challenge!
Thx for the tips @maim! The outsides are identical. 2006 VK Pro I bought with only 1200 miles. Original owner used it only for ice fishing, about 100 mi total per year. I'm beginning to find more and more issues. I doubt he put much upkeep into it, from what I'm finding. I'm all about preventive maintenance too. I don't like surprises that make for potentially life threatening end results (outside Fairbanks, AK). I saw a comment where someone liked the aluminum wheels for not binding up in overflow ice too. Any idea where to find used parts from older sleds?
I'll look for that speedo bearing too. Sounds like I need a needle for my grease gun on some of these.
Oh! Also, I just signed up for vip. Do you have a 2006 VK Pro service manual that you can send?
Thx for the tips @maim! The outsides are identical. 2006 VK Pro I bought with only 1200 miles. Original owner used it only for ice fishing, about 100 mi total per year. I'm beginning to find more and more issues. I doubt he put much upkeep into it, from what I'm finding. I'm all about preventive maintenance too. I don't like surprises that make for potentially life threatening end results (outside Fairbanks, AK). I saw a comment where someone liked the aluminum wheels for not binding up in overflow ice too. Any idea where to find used parts from older sleds?
I'll look for that speedo bearing too. Sounds like I need a needle for my grease gun on some of these.
Oh! Also, I just signed up for vip. Do you have a 2006 VK Pro service manual that you can send?
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1988 vk 540
all my used aluminum wheels, not on a sled, have the rubber delaminating from the aluminum but all of them are 20+ years old. i usually buy the kimpex replacement wheels with the bearing and snap ring in aluminum (when i can get them in correct size) or plastic to have spares on hand. if the idler wheels look like the above ones, they are not serviceable either. for used you could try ebay but i would bet on those having bad bearings, or you can get from hibbsman at barn of parts or one of the other site sponsors that dismantle sleds. those rear wheels have been the same since the phazer II on the japan built yamaha sleds as my vk and enticer take the same rear wheels as both my apex's.
you can pack the bearings with your fingers with the seal out on one side once you clean the old grease out, it is just easyer to do with a grease gun and needle greaser. i have one mounted on a pistol grip grease gun with a 12" hose for my stuff.
i have frozen all types/materials of wheels in the slush on the rails. i tend to check them and rotate/clear them out after any slush or water crossing.
check your pm's for the manual.
you can pack the bearings with your fingers with the seal out on one side once you clean the old grease out, it is just easyer to do with a grease gun and needle greaser. i have one mounted on a pistol grip grease gun with a 12" hose for my stuff.
i have frozen all types/materials of wheels in the slush on the rails. i tend to check them and rotate/clear them out after any slush or water crossing.
check your pm's for the manual.
coldrunning
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My wheels are identical to those in your pic. I'll look into kimpex and barn of parts. Good beta on the aluminum. I would prefer replaceable bearings.
I can't say whether the original owner ever greased these bearings, but the overflow I rode through probably accelerated the failure. I'm new to riding through it and the maintenance after. I probably rode another 26 miles before clearing ice from the underside. I definitely felt less acceleration during those miles, which returned after de-icing! I'll be on it sooner in the future.
I can't say whether the original owner ever greased these bearings, but the overflow I rode through probably accelerated the failure. I'm new to riding through it and the maintenance after. I probably rode another 26 miles before clearing ice from the underside. I definitely felt less acceleration during those miles, which returned after de-icing! I'll be on it sooner in the future.
74Nitro
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If the Yamaha accessory part number is used to order these wheels, they have replaceable bearings.if the outer side of the wheels look like this,
those are not serviceable for the bearings. any one for the 11 apex xtx rear fits on there and does have a replaceable bearing. the old aluminum wheels had a replaceable/serviceable bearing. i tend to repack or a least check them every year on all my sleds. the high milage trail sleds need repacking almost every year. the yard putters/work sleds end up getting repacked/replaced every 3-5 years on average based on useage.
if you haven't repacked/replaced it yet, i would look at the speedo bearing as those need repacking/inspection every year. i hate walking so i repack them every year.
coldrunning
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I saw that the new part number ends in -10, from which I assumed Yamaha has upgraded them a number of times. Perhaps not 10, but who knows.
Brotherdan
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- 2011 apex xtx blue, starr suspension,gytr front shocks,camso 1.5 track cut down, snowtrackers work in process,2003 rx1er originally 121 converted to 136"monoshock 2 ck136 rear suspension with clicker vector ltx shock,muffin works tunnel extension, seat concepts(wrp) seat,apex hooked handlebars converted to all underhood wiring,8"lake effect billet aluminum riser,gytr frontshocks,yamaheater hand warmer kit,rocks ridelite,rocks power supply, rocks heated bag,, tunnel braces,blue skid plate,garmin gps, aggressive snowtrackers on apex single keel skis,rollerski ski wheel kit,108 warthog studs&blue studboy backers,pioneer wheel lowering kit, dupont slides, 4th wheel kit,yamaha saddle, tank& windshield bags, powermadd led handguards, bar mount mirror kit, apex radiator& electric fan added, apex rear cooler,autometer temp guage, apex new style large diameter drive shaft with extroverts machined for chaincase,thunder products clutching,1987 enticer 340ltr 2100miles,1984 enticer 340,1996 wolverine 350,big wheel kit,winch,racks,k&n,full skidplates
You can get the old style spoked accessory wheel, verify your axle diameter is 20mmI saw that the new part number ends in -10, from which I assumed Yamaha has upgraded them a number of times. Perhaps not 10, but who knows.
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