0W40

[74Nitro]

I'm an AMSOIL guy and this is why:
1. They were the first, or one of, to perfect synthetic oils
2. I buy it within a $1 of other comparable oils
3. It's ALWAYS in the top 3 or 4 of EVERY oil test i see along with Mobil1 & the older Pennzoil
4. They sponsor tons of events, including SnoCross, which helps racing and OUR sport!
5. I like saying the word AMSOIL. Makes me happy

What amazes me the most is some people that will go crazy saving $.50 or a $1 per bottle. That's 3 or $4 per change.
NOW $15 a quart is top dollar and if i could find name Brand oil for $5, i'd use it.
BUT, i find the good oils are $9 to $12 per quart.

ow-30 or ow-40?
We've got 7 months to talk, debate & argue this. LET's GO!

Yes, it is good oil.
I've never been a fan of pyramid marketing, that's why I don't use it.

 

[stevewithOCD]

$4.60 a quart

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-0W-30-5-qt/17034369

I would bet the farm this oil will out perform the Yamalube semi synthetic by a mile.

That's a GOOD deal!
$5.72 before taxes per quart.
I think my cousin that bought my old Apex used that.
And Mobil1 is always in the top 5 on the tests also.

Now which one to pick............hmmmmmm

More opinions coming

 

[stevewithOCD]

Running 5w-20 in old air cooled engines is a serious risk, I wouldn’t recommend that. Those engines have a lot more bearing clearance than newer engines, many are splash lubrication, and can develop a rod knock from running that thin of an oil. You would be better off running the Rotella in those motors.

Hey guess what, there’s actually a reason they make so many different weight oils. It’s because different engines require different Viscosities. If your not familiar with why your engine runs a specific grade oil, changing to a different grade oil is playing with fire.

This is a very good point.
Different engines require different oils for different needs.
My OMC 350 in boat required 15w-50 while the same motor in my truck required 10w-40 then a 2 year later model required 5w-30.
Now some run 5w-20.

Keep close to what the manufacturer suggests. They aren't stupid.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I love these oil topics.
They come up every year .
Watch YOUTUBE of people running crazy stuff in their motors trying to blow them.
They use Olive Oil, WD-40, Baby Oil & just about everything you can imagine.
Fun passing the RONA time

 

[SumpBuster]

Running 5w-20 in old air cooled engines is a serious risk, I wouldn’t recommend that. Those engines have a lot more bearing clearance than newer engines, many are splash lubrication, and can develop a rod knock from running that thin of an oil. You would be better off running the Rotella in those motors.

Hey guess what, there’s actually a reason they make so many different weight oils. It’s because different engines require different Viscosities. If your not familiar with why your engine runs a specific grade oil, changing to a different grade oil is playing with fire.

But unless I blow up some of my old crap, the wife won't let me buy anything new!!!
(and, I always have her pick up the oil for me. So guess whose fault it will be???lol)

 

[SumpBuster]

This is a very good point.
Different engines require different oils for different needs.
My OMC 350 in boat required 15w-50 while the same motor in my truck required 10w-40 then a 2 year later model required 5w-30.
Now some run 5w-20.

Keep close to what the manufacturer suggests. They aren't stupid.

Yeah...some of the variable valve timing engines need the thinner oil to get lube there quickly, so they say. I did manage to blow up an old 1970's k301 Kohler, but not oil related. I over rode the governor and the top of the piston broke off at the ring groove! That was new even for me!
Still have 2 more cubs so no zero turn for me yet! It's tough...my son in law and I get all this old junk running and they last for years. Just ressurected a mcculloch 3216 found in a dumpster. Now 8 saws running..lmao!!

 

[Fast]

Fast:
The Yamaha dealer in blind river has 0-30 if your dealer doesn't sell it anymore! Ypu just call ahead and they do curbside pick up (because of c19)
If you ever decide to go there to pick some up drive a little further to massey and stop buy for a coffee or beer
I am only 1 min off hwy17

The dealer ordered it, you can only get per liter it doesn't come in a kit,the 1st person i talked to at customer servive didn't have a clue and said it was discontinued

 

[Fast]

So the process would be , in the event that you blew up your engine after 10 years , you would need to produce 10 years of receipts of Yamalube to be eligible ?
Who out there is that well organized /? , that they would have those handy in the event that happened .
Someone on this site must have gone thru this .
Heck I didn't even do the XS belt warranty guidelines correctly .
Thankfully that belt owes me nothing as it has been on for 2 years , and still going strong .

Do you think Yamaha , determined , possibly from following this site , or maybe from dealer feedback , that they were loosing sales of their oil change kits by not having a fully synthetic option ?

Keep all your oil/ filter reciepts in your filing cabinet, if the time comes yes they will repair/ replace your motor for 20 years

 

[Fast]

That's a GOOD deal!
$5.72 before taxes per quart.
I think my cousin that bought my old Apex used that.
And Mobil1 is always in the top 5 on the tests also.

Now which one to pick............hmmmmmm

More opinions coming

Mobile 1 should be good for a stock motor but if your tuned i wouldn't run it, read the article about oils few posts back

 

[74Nitro]

Keep all your oil/ filter reciepts in your filing cabinet, if the time comes yes they will repair/ replace your motor for 20 years

I would think that all the oil changes would need to have been performed by the dealer in order get said warranty, but even then I am HIGHLY skeptical that a machine that is many years outside of regular warranty would get a new engine

 

[SumpBuster]

Has the grade of oil for the sidewinders changed? My manual says it requires 0W30 and the dealer only has 0W40 and insists thats what it takes.

(Sorry if this has already been posted..I didn't see them all)

The 0w 40 (european car formula...they're special..lol) 42 bucks a 5 quart jug, but this is the same as most of the other mobil1, except extended performance which is 25. Gonna stock up if and when the price reflects the drop in crude. I've ordered online and pick up in store. Usually less online, but not always.

 

[SumpBuster]

So does this mean 0W20 is even better?

Just double it for 0 40!!

 

[ClutchMaster]

I love these oil topics.
They come up every year .
Watch YOUTUBE of people running crazy stuff in their motors trying to blow them.
They use Olive Oil, WD-40, Baby Oil & just about everything you can imagine.
Fun passing the RONA time

Lmfao!
I figured you’d be passing time wiping down and disinfecting tv remotes and toilet handles OCD?

Mobile 1 should be good for a stock motor but if your tuned i wouldn't run it, read the article about oils few posts back

Why is that?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Yep, Pro-Stock cars run straight 0 and straight 2 weight oil for max power, but you better have the proper clearances and oil pump for it too. Thicker oil than needed will rob HP. Higher viscosity does not provide less wear, just higher oil pressure and pumping losses.

I wouldn't run 0-20 in a trail sled designed to run 0-30 however, I know I wouldn't run 0-40 in it either. Put it on a dyno to see the difference. Keep in mind there are some lightweight 40 weights and also some heavy 30 weights, you have to really look at the spec.




The best wear protection and top rated oils for wear in Rats testing is 0-20 and 0-30 oils. Here you can read for hours.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

You only want thicker oil weight if you have large clearances and/or a weak oil pump. All that maters is the boundary layer of oil holds up between the hard parts so they don't collide and weld together, anything beyond that just robs power and slows you down.

Dam I’ve been reading this (Huge) link and it’s kinda changed my perspective on Zinc/phos oil content. I will say Rat is a little radical in his opinions on this. It has been proven that zinc/phosphorus helps protect certain engine parts, it’s been accepted and proven for many many years. He is really bucking thousands of real world tests that prove this, but I do think he is correct in many aspects. It’s true that too much of a good thing can be detrimental in almost any case, very interesting and lengthy read, good “Rona reading” that’s for sure!

I talked to our lubrication specialist at work and he was not really in agreement with Rat. He says on critical items we test out oil for zinc/phosphorus content. He said they watch those numbers and they have it down to a Science of when the oil will need changing. They also look a particle count and size but when that gets high they just run a filter cart over and clean and dry the oil. He said if the zinc/phosphorus gets really low a failure is eminent, so there has to be atleast some in the oil.
Anyhow I’m thinking of switching to AMS oil after reading this link!

 

[yamadoo]

I don’t remember when but its been posted and I agreed that Mobil 1 0W - 30 is available every where. So I started using it a few years a go, yet I have never had to add oil to any of my 3 or 4 cylinder Yamahas. So I think we have lots of GREAT choices, so for us boring stock guys a motor oil designed to go 5 - 10,000 miles in a car such as a TOYOTA which has a Yamaha engine probably can protect a Genesis 4 stroke for a season of snowmobiling.