Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
I've spent quite a bit of time drilling out loose rivets that need replaced. I'm also drilling out rivets that aren't loose to make way for the cracked tunnel repair. I was going to remove parts and tig weld the tunnel the best I could, however; I've decided to go the band-aid route.
More to come............
More to come............
Last edited:
Redbeard
Lifetime Member
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- 2012 Apex, 136 M20, PB80
2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
OK........here's my band-aid fix for the cracked tunnel:
Since my tunnel is cracked right above the new mono front arm holes, I've decided to remove the BOP front plates and go a slightly different route. The other plates on the rear will remain in place. Travis did a great job on this kit, but the integrity of the tunnel and the forces of the front arm hammering just a few inches away from the cracks has me concerned. If the tunnel wasn't damaged, all the BOP plates would be in place and I'd be done by now.
I had my sheet metal buddy bend some brackets in his press brake. Using existing rivet holes, these brackets fit in place of the front BOP plates and extend about 5 inches into the bulkhead to make this area more rigid. I even used the old Proaction mounting holes to hopefully gain some strength. The 90 degree bends at the top should make the tunnel more rigid and help support the weight of a full gas tank. Time will tell, but I feel the plates are just as good or better than trying to weld the cracks.
Cheers!
Since my tunnel is cracked right above the new mono front arm holes, I've decided to remove the BOP front plates and go a slightly different route. The other plates on the rear will remain in place. Travis did a great job on this kit, but the integrity of the tunnel and the forces of the front arm hammering just a few inches away from the cracks has me concerned. If the tunnel wasn't damaged, all the BOP plates would be in place and I'd be done by now.
I had my sheet metal buddy bend some brackets in his press brake. Using existing rivet holes, these brackets fit in place of the front BOP plates and extend about 5 inches into the bulkhead to make this area more rigid. I even used the old Proaction mounting holes to hopefully gain some strength. The 90 degree bends at the top should make the tunnel more rigid and help support the weight of a full gas tank. Time will tell, but I feel the plates are just as good or better than trying to weld the cracks.
Cheers!
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Man you are doing an awesome job on that sled !! You want to help me with mine !!
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Work on the sled has been hit and miss lately, but I have all the rear parts ready for the sandblaster. I'm hoping to fire up the powder coater one night this week. I'll post pics of the finished parts.
In the meantime, I spent some time vacuuming the sled and work area with my custom 55 gallon shop vac, "The Suck Plus!"
lol
In the meantime, I spent some time vacuuming the sled and work area with my custom 55 gallon shop vac, "The Suck Plus!"
lol
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Work on the sled has been hit and miss lately, but I have all the rear parts ready for the sandblaster. I'm hoping to fire up the powder coater one night this week. I'll post pics of the finished parts.
In the meantime, I spent some time vacuuming the sled and work area with my custom 55 gallon shop vac, "The Suck Plus!"
lol
View attachment 112500 View attachment 112501
LMAO... awesome VAC..
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Parts for the rear are sandblasted and powder coated flat black! I fabricated my own forward facing track adjustment brackets. The original rear facing adjusters got robbed for another project several years ago. These were simple-to-make replacements!
Here's some pics! Cheers!
Here's some pics! Cheers!
Last edited:
Redbeard
Lifetime Member
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- 2012 Apex, 136 M20, PB80
2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Here's my tunnel band aid bracket bolted in place. There are even straps that fasten to the outside of the tunnel around the front arm bolt. I used stainless 10-24 screws with stainless nylon nuts wherever I could. The other bolts are 10.9 class, M6 bolts with 10.9 nylon nuts. The old Proaction hole has a 3/8 grade 8 bolt with grade 8 nylon nut.
Now I'm presented with another problem...both running board heat exchangers are slowly seeping coolant. Since I'm here, I'm going to just replace them with the spare Apex coolers I have. I'll post more pics.
Now I'm presented with another problem...both running board heat exchangers are slowly seeping coolant. Since I'm here, I'm going to just replace them with the spare Apex coolers I have. I'll post more pics.
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Parts for the rear are sandblasted and powder coated flat black! I fabricated my own forward facing track adjustment brackets. The original rear facing adjusters got robbed for another project several years ago. These were simple-to-make replacements!
Here's some pics! Cheers!
View attachment 112630 View attachment 112631 View attachment 112632 View attachment 112633 View attachment 112634 View attachment 112635 View attachment 112636 View attachment 112637
Stellar work my friend!! Very impressed.
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Damn!!!! Great job man!
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Wow your "band aid" will probably be stronger than when it was new.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
The leaky, right side running board cooler is removed. I made hose pinchers out of some old round stock (powder coated of course) to clamp the hoses and keep spilled coolant at a minimum. I had to trim the Apex cooler flange to fit around my tunnel band aid. Otherwise, the Apex cooler went right on. Now for the left side.
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I love reading your write-up.. very nice bud.
Redbeard
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I appreciate that Tom.I love reading your write-up.. very nice bud.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Thank you Superfan! First thing I'm going to do with this sled is pull a tree stump! lolWow your "band aid" will probably be stronger than when it was new.
SXRider7Hundo
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