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Hey, THIS is what I should have been riding in front o Trevor!!!!!!
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Yup! Trevor said he's following Agman this year! He can't wait!Hey, THIS is what I should have been riding in front o Trevor!!!!!!
lol
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
The outer tunnel stiffeners are powder coated and the rear is all buttoned up. I replaced a TON of rivets that were loose. If any of you ever replace rivets on the die cast portion that supports the muffler, be cautious as this material can't withstand much of an impact when driving rivets out. I would recommend clamping vise grips on the bottom side of the rivet before drilling. This allows you to twist and pull the rivet out, verses driving it out with a punch and hammer. Vise grips can also keep the rivet from spinning when drilling the head off.
Next is to put the exhaust back together, then I'll start prepping the skid for it's final installation.
Next is to put the exhaust back together, then I'll start prepping the skid for it's final installation.
Last edited:
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
The exhaust is re-assembled and ready to go. Since the rivets that hold the header hanger to the tunnel were pulled out, I cut a small strip of aluminum to sandwich the tunnel and hanger together with bolts. Everything appears to be solid.
Here's some pics:
Here's some pics:
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
You really do some great work, I know I already said that, but its worth repeating.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
I appreciate that Superfan! I enjoy posting this kind of work.You really do some great work, I know I already said that, but its worth repeating.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
It's time to install the skid, but it laid in a barn for 5 years. The surface rust, paint chips and bird $hit got the best of me...unacceptable! lol
Stay tuned!
Stay tuned!
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
The arms are coated and I'm ready to start reassembling the skid. I coated the arms twice and I'll explain why:
1) Durability! I like multiple coats on suspension arms. They'll take a little more punishment before chipping and IMO the finish looks better than trying to achieve a super thick single coat.
2) Color and coverage! I decided to coat the arms silver, so I made the base coat flat black. It's hard to see how well silver is covering on a part that's already gray from the sandblaster.
3) Out-gassing! This is a problem that can plague any powder coating job. Basically, impurities (grease, dirt, paint, etc) on the base metal percolates through the fluidized powder while baking. This leaves tiny blisters in the finish and can ruin your project! Some powders are more susceptible than others, but the flat black I use is very out-gas forgiving, which makes it a good base coat.
Below is a piece of pipe I coated without properly cleaning and/or sandblasting before coating. Notice the blisters?!? Ugly!! Proper cleaning or treatment of the part is a must!
More pics to come!
1) Durability! I like multiple coats on suspension arms. They'll take a little more punishment before chipping and IMO the finish looks better than trying to achieve a super thick single coat.
2) Color and coverage! I decided to coat the arms silver, so I made the base coat flat black. It's hard to see how well silver is covering on a part that's already gray from the sandblaster.
3) Out-gassing! This is a problem that can plague any powder coating job. Basically, impurities (grease, dirt, paint, etc) on the base metal percolates through the fluidized powder while baking. This leaves tiny blisters in the finish and can ruin your project! Some powders are more susceptible than others, but the flat black I use is very out-gas forgiving, which makes it a good base coat.
Below is a piece of pipe I coated without properly cleaning and/or sandblasting before coating. Notice the blisters?!? Ugly!! Proper cleaning or treatment of the part is a must!
More pics to come!
BigDogrx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Great example Joe, I have everything coming, looking for electric old stove for garage today.The arms are coated and I'm ready to start reassembling the skid. I coated the arms twice and I'll explain why:
1) Durability! I like multiple coats on suspension arms. They'll take a little more punishment before chipping and IMO the finish looks better than trying to achieve a super thick single coat.
2) Color and coverage! I decided to coat the arms silver, so I made the base coat flat black. It's hard to see how well silver is covering on a part that's already gray from the sandblaster.
3) Out-gassing! This is a problem that can plague any powder coating job. Basically, impurities (grease, dirt, paint, etc) on the base metal percolates through the fluidized powder while baking. This leaves tiny blisters in the finish and can ruin your project! Some powders are more susceptible than others, but the flat black I use is very out-gas forgiving, which makes it a good base coat.
Below is a piece of pipe I coated without properly cleaning and/or sandblasting before coating. Notice the blisters?!? Ugly!! Proper cleaning or treatment of the part is a must!
More pics to come!
View attachment 113147 View attachment 113148 View attachment 113150 View attachment 113151 View attachment 113152 View attachment 113153 View attachment 113154 View attachment 113155 View attachment 113156
Dusty Dan
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- 2016 SRViper LTX LE
2012 Vector
You do absolutely amazing work NS, good on yuh!!The arms are coated and I'm ready to start reassembling the skid. I coated the arms twice and I'll explain why:
1) Durability! I like multiple coats on suspension arms. They'll take a little more punishment before chipping and IMO the finish looks better than trying to achieve a super thick single coat.
2) Color and coverage! I decided to coat the arms silver, so I made the base coat flat black. It's hard to see how well silver is covering on a part that's already gray from the sandblaster.
3) Out-gassing! This is a problem that can plague any powder coating job. Basically, impurities (grease, dirt, paint, etc) on the base metal percolates through the fluidized powder while baking. This leaves tiny blisters in the finish and can ruin your project! Some powders are more susceptible than others, but the flat black I use is very out-gas forgiving, which makes it a good base coat.
Below is a piece of pipe I coated without properly cleaning and/or sandblasting before coating. Notice the blisters?!? Ugly!! Proper cleaning or treatment of the part is a must!
More pics to come!
View attachment 113147 View attachment 113148 View attachment 113150 View attachment 113151 View attachment 113152 View attachment 113153 View attachment 113154 View attachment 113155 View attachment 113156
superfan75
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
SWEET JOB !!
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Skid re-assembly is complete and ready for installation. I want to point out a few changes made to the skid:
1) Dial shock adjuster on the tunnel has been deleted. A key provided by Barn of Parts will be used if any firm/soft adjustments need to be made.
2) Rear axle is assembled with nut on the right side. I do this so the nut will tighten in the same direction as wheel/bearing rotation.
3) Extra wheels are added to the rails in mid section and do not interfere with suspension travel.
4) All newer style wheels with replaceable bearings.
1) Dial shock adjuster on the tunnel has been deleted. A key provided by Barn of Parts will be used if any firm/soft adjustments need to be made.
2) Rear axle is assembled with nut on the right side. I do this so the nut will tighten in the same direction as wheel/bearing rotation.
3) Extra wheels are added to the rails in mid section and do not interfere with suspension travel.
4) All newer style wheels with replaceable bearings.
Last edited:
Redbeard
Lifetime Member
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- 2012 Apex, 136 M20, PB80
2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
Skid installed!
- Joined
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Pretty good work for a dirt farmer......... Just sayin' LOL!!!!
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