2007 phazer wont start ....im stumped

[furg69]

Hey guys hope everyone is having an awesome summer. Even though the weather is hot , I picked up a Phazer with engine damage, It had a rod through the case so I found a used lower case and installed my head and associated parts on that. once all together I checked timing as per the manual, fuel pump is working great, spark is great and its turning over fine, but it will not start. Not even a sputter or an attempt to fire up. I was told the block had new piston rings installed. anyone ideas as what to check ? I did try spraying gas into the intake with no luck either

 

[hibshman25]

Coil pack connectors swapped by mistake? #1 connector on #2 plug?

 

[Mooseman]

How's the compression?

 

[maim]

not throwing a crank position sensor code?

 

[furg69]

Thanks for replies guys.Not showing any codes and as for the coil packs I think it would be tight o switch the left with right because the left one is very short. I did a compression test and only got 60psi ufffff. But I did notice a very slight pin hole in the tester. But either way I think it's compression. Hoping it's not the cylinders or rings because it was a pain to take that apart. Anyway to check the cylinders for out of roundness without taking the engine out again ???

 

[thor452]

drop some oil in the cylinder and test again also are you testing with throttle open (makes a big difference)?

 

[Mooseman]

To find out where it's losing compression, you'd have to do a leakdown test and will tell you how much you're actually losing. It could be the valves if the head suffered a lot of damage when it grenaded.

 

[MrSled]

Is the oil pump dry?

 

[maim]

x2 on a possible stuck valve. i was going to suggest checking them with a feeler gauge to make sure one is not stuck.

if valves are good, might need a bit of oil to get compression in the 90lb + range for it to fire off with a proper working decompressor. i had to start a bike i did a rebuild on with an auto decompressor disconnected to get it to start.

 

[furg69]

I have a leak down tester on hand but not certain on how to use it. I putvtge cylinder 1 on TDC with the cams in timing as per manual and I hear air still flowing around and it seems to be going to the other cylinder. Just tried pressuring it up to around 110psi and it drops back to 60 or 70 in a minute or so. I'm assuming it should maintain pressure and not lose any. I don't think these engines will fire on 90psi as the manual states over 200. Thanks for the tips guys. I'm leaning towards warped head, head gasket or maybe improper torque on the head when installed. Possible valves also. I was told to remove the head and check valves by pouring gas in them to see if it passes through. Not sure if this is a legit test for valve tightness

 

[maim]

the gas oil trick works for checking if valves are closed.

most motors with start and run at 90psi compression but power will suffer. for best performance you usually want 150-200psi. on a fresh rebuild it will have lower compression then that on an engine that has been broken in. on the 4 stroke bike i replaced the pistons and rings, it had low compression # before it started for the 1st time. now it is running 160 psi last time i checked after about 500 miles on the engine.

regardless, it needs to hold more than 60 psi to start up.

 

[cannondale27]

Start with a valve clearance check. Wouldn't be first time someone put too big a shim in.

 

[Mooseman]

If you want to check further with the leakdown test, this video shows it on a lawnmower.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=141&v=jc3j4ShE-tk

Things he didn't explain on where leakage could be. If you hear air escaping from the exhaust, it would be an exhaust valve and if you see air bubbles appearing in the cooling system, then it's either a head gasket or crack in the head or block. The needle should be in the green or at least in the yellow on a freshly rebuilt engine and leakage should be in the crankcase only.