2009 Nytro Front End+ Rebuild

[Hooray!]

You are right Nick, pretty much all at local hardware store, the black bolts are nice on front where they show, rest went SS and longer and fender washers.

 

[Hooray!]

Agree Nick, I bought "back up" stainless 6mm metric machine bolts, fender washers, etc and ended up using all of them on the bottom, only the two front black machine bolts and black washers you can see on the nose. The ACE 6mm metric c-clamps wont spin like the stock system and are rugged. Likely one of the first (not the last) wastes of $21 on my rebuild buying the Yamaha kit but I did use a second black machine bolt on the lower side plastic. I really wanted a MountainTech full skid plate, but that will come... snowing now in Southern Maine, hope to ride after Christmas at least my 700 RedHead...

 

[nickleuci]

I rode Sunday in northern NH. One of the best early season rides in a few years. The cold froze most of the water bars. Was thin and boney in spots as expected but excellent and groomed in others. Difference this year was my sled stayed clean, no mud.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hooray!]

Sweet... my sled is in Sanford ME near the ITS trail, they opened them yesterday as it has been so rock hard cold. Today was 47, done... should harden up Friday for a few weeks so if we get a few inches, may work with 3-4" of frozen ice base. Last skid Yamaha part arrived today, the rubber sleeve that goes between the straps. Backordered now until 10JAN so I am told. HyGear rebuilt center shock arrives tomorrow, cost was $182 delivered as we crushed the $50 hose between the reservoir and shock with an ill planned flip of the skid during the hyfax removal. Their parts and labor cost were very fair IMO... shock needed to be rebuilt after three years so now it is fresh.

Started my three night push to wrap the Nytro before Chirstmas:

12/19: prep tunnel patches, remove seat / prep for Schmidt Brothers (SB) tunnel block off plate, prep strap shaft with three new rubber shims
12/20: install HyGear returned shock in skid, install straps, torque entire skid, fill with AmsOil water resistant synthetic grease, mount into tunnel with SB shims at mount wheels/axle
12/21: adjust track, align skis, torque front end, install SB steering rod bolts/pins
12/22-23: mount HID ballasts, YamaHeater control box, LED control box on plastic shroud around airbox; put all new wires into NAPA wiring harness case; install HIDS and LEDs (on fence where blue LED strips will be - thinking under hood so blue glow comes out the air vents vs. under skid where I might rip them off!).
12/24: day before Christma party at wife's sisters house (where Nytro sits in garage, hang in garage, finish above in nice clothes (lol) & catch hell from wife for being in garage not being social... lol.
12/26: Ride like a MF!

Items worked on tonight with pictures:

1. Skid Plate: finished mounting with last two SS 6mm x 35mm machine bolts and SS fender washers vs. stock small washers and bolts. Really surprised how strong it all feels tightened up as you have the aluminum "spars" riveted into a rubber cover that comes stock, interleaved with the plastic lower side covers which are sandwiched in between the hard plastic skid plate, hence the longer bolts... all tight is tough. Note: I had to hammer out the aluminum "spars" as the sled had taken a hit and bent the lips shown in the pics that hold things tight with the heat exchanger adjacent to the track.

2. Plates: ground the repair weld on the port side down flush with the now deformed by heat aluminum tunnel in preparation for the 2013+ "plates" Yamaha added to prevent cracking at this weak point. ALL pre 2013 sled need this mod. Learned the Yamaha OEM rivets require a #11 machine drill and my kit only had a 13/64" which is eight (yes 8 drills away from correct). My Father has a full 80 piece machine drill set so figure wait until tomorrow as I need to drill three new rivet holes per plate and want them to be tight.

3. Schmidt Brothers Block Off Plate: prepared to pull the muffler shroud by removing seat and plastics; tomorrow drill out the 3 rivets per side required to disconnect the muffler "arch" brace so I can remove the shroud. Bad design IMO to have to drill out rivets to access the muffler. Might put back in machine bolts and nuts as I have a muffler upgrade in my future. Anyways, this will be last item on my list (for now!).

 

[Hooray!]

Light at the end of the tunnel... finished off the SB tunnel block off and the left and right "patches". My left patch still does not cover up the crack that extended beyond the weld so may drill a small 1/16" hole at the top to prevent any further cracking. Note to remove the muffler cover you must drill out the three rivets on each side shown in the pics. Very happy with how the SB tunnel block covers where all the snow packs under the muffler. Chris at SB said they tested a full block off where the area in front of the muffler was blocked and this only created a heat trap under our seat as the issue area is in the rear; well constructed, fit perfectly.

 

[WinderFab]

Glad you see the light, you done some great work along the way...
Looking at your recent pictures and noticed the muffler mount off the cover, I didn’t have to remove the muffler mount from the cover to remove the cover from the sled, I just lifted the cover off the bolts a slide the cover off , I guess either way works..
I have the same block off plate with the full hindle exhaust and it works great.

 

[Hooray!]

Last night, epic assembly to get the track back in after a bolt failure on the front a-arm shaft when torqued to the 52 ft-lb spec. I found metric 10mm 1.25-60mm 10.9 flange bolts at the local ACE Hardware store (amazing); able to shorten and retap bolt to the correct 55mm length. Leaned "10.9" is the metric bolt rating which is very close to the 8 rating of SAE bolts, slightly less PSI per the spec but still strong. The ones in the front of my skid had a funny "9" stamped on them which is an unknown but looked lighter duty in the flange area vs. the 10.9's. I believe the fact these particular bolts have a 1" shank with no threads compounded the alignment issue and it was a binding problem that caused the bolt to fail. I found a shaft at Jackman power sports and they shipped it to arrive yesterday but it never showed up (we had 6-8" of new snow) and as a last ditch idea, decided to try to remove what I thought would be a completely bound broken bolt and amazingly it turned with just a set of needle nose pliers on the two threads still showing out of the shaft! Removal proved to be almost a hand tight affair so the build up continued. Lots of pics below so others can see what I saw and hopefully be comfortable tackling their own skid; also painted the rear 90 degree turn out with 2000 F high temp header paint. Sanded down the remaining silver paint and rust smooth and hit it with three coats 5 min apart. The first coat fish eyed but the 2nd and 3rd went on clean... dried looking new. Cured twice (20 minute run, 20 minute cool), so one more to finish setting the Rust-o-leum. Used a 25 lb. exercise weight to put 11kg on the track during tensioning. The spec is 10kg for 25-30mm of track deflection, as you can see in the pic, ended up with 27mm deflection with slightly higher weight. Alignment after measuring the tip of adjustment bolt to the "plate" where the bolt screws in resulted in only having to do 3/4 of a turn on the left adjuster bolt to get track to spin with perfect 8mm spacing on each side. Tuesday I align the skis with the two 8' 2x4s I bought, torque the front end and install the HID bulbs and I be a riding mother fu@#er! ...lol. About time!

 

[Hooray!]

Thanks Fabio... yes a project for sure, good times though along the way with my Brother-In-Law... lots of fun! The U shaped muffler mount was riveted (3 per side) to the tunnel cover so even after removing all the 10mm tunnel bolts and the three that bolt through the U mount to the muffler, things were on tight. Interesting yours came off without the rivet removal, possible another person did that prior to you?

 

[WinderFab]

Good times for sure,
I’m not sure but it came out fairly easily, once I ha the cover off I had to remove it off the cover to install the handle exhaust and as I could see it was never removed and still had the Yamaha rivets in place.
You better have a great year riding after all this work lol...

 

[Hooray!]

I will, you too... heading up to the Forks end of January, a one or two day loop into Canada and back into Maine end of February and Allagash early March plus local riding out of Sanford Maine where the sled is kept... plan to hop on my 1998 XTC 700 redhead triple here and there too, just picked up some Klotz two stroke oil, love how clean it burns and that Klotz smell (I hear they make a candle that smells like it!) This Nytro will be interesting, rode it only a few times last year but she should be in great shape this season and several to come, love Yamaha triples.

 

[WinderFab]

Only a one or two day loop into Canada lol, northern Ontario super sled highways are waiting for you lol...

 

[Hooray!]

Yes, short hop north of the border from Jackman, north along the river and then back into northern Maine for a ride back on the south side of the river. Exact trail TBD but should be a fun 3 day trip. I would love a longer trip further north on the super highways I have heard about but likely not this year...

 

[WinderFab]

Well if you ever want to ride northern Ontario let me know we can meet up and ride...

 

[Hooray!]

Thanks. I hope to take you up on that offer! Last night aligned the front end and installed the SB "Safer Outer Tie Rod Bolt" kit. The SB bolt really tightened things up. One question on the adjustment, is there any reason you can't do half turns of the outer tie rod ball joint? There is an up and down on the casting but a half turn option would allow for finer tuning of the ski tip turn out. SB suggests 1/4" total and one turn is over 1/8"... Will take some pics of what I mean. Hope to ride this week. Merry Christmas to all.

 

[Hooray!]

Purchased a new starter relay from local dealer ($52), installing tomorrow with the new battery, hoping this solves the "click" issue after repeat starts. I also notice when I first start up the sled the RPM varies from 1500 - 2100 like an auto choke of some sort is changing... anyone else seen this behavior? Smooths out after 5 min of warm up so not really worried but interesting...

-6 F tonight in southern Maine, cold... hope to put a few miles on after working on things in the afternoon, about time! : )