2009 Nytro Front End+ Rebuild

[Hooray!]

More wrenching tomorrow, today I purchased a new battery at my local Pep Boys, nice AGM battery for $105. Also decided to support Rockmeister and go with his HID kit, received today, pulled it all out and inspected, super high quality, great ballasts, nice wire, bulbs specific to our sled application minimizing the "line" caused by our non-HID lenses (stuffed all back into the box for the pic), I like the idea of low current ballasts to keep current demands down too compared to alternative HIDs I was looking at (3 amps vs. 4 amps as I understand it). Super high quality kit first impression, plan to install tomorrow or when I get back from Casablanca on the 15th. More to report as I do it and actually see the difference in the light! Cant wait... one of those major changes when you do it and it is a dark night with tight trials : )

 

[nickleuci]

Damnit this thread has me paranoid about the condition of my clutch and torsion spring slider blocks. I'm at 10,000 miles and worried I could have a mishap. Just put a new track on end of last season and I DO NOT want it damaged.

Going into the garage to see what I can see.

Great thread Hooray!

Update: my torsion spring slider blocks have minimal wear. Partial grove front to back, about 1/8"-3/16" deep. Plenty of plastic left and a long ways from the bolt. I have just over 10k miles.

Hooray! Are you running heavy duty springs in the rear or do you have your blocks on full hard? Wondering if added spring pressure could have caused that kind of wear.

 

[Hooray!]

Damnit this thread has me paranoid about the condition of my clutch and torsion spring slider blocks. I'm at 10,000 miles and worried I could have a mishap. Just put a new track on end of last season and I DO NOT want it damaged.

Going into the garage to see what I can see.

Great thread Hooray!

Update: my torsion spring slider blocks have minimal wear. Partial grove front to back, about 1/8"-3/16" deep. Plenty of plastic left and a long ways from the bolt. I have just over 10k miles.

Hooray! Are you running heavy duty springs in the rear or do you have your blocks on full hard? Wondering if added spring pressure could have caused that kind of wear.

Glad to hear, my Nytro is new to me as of last April. Springs were on medium setting, straps tight, transfer rods all the way down, springs just sagging, standard HyGear suspension settings as far as I know but I will confirm with them as they are rebuilding the rear shock for me now. 3/16" wear may be worth new plastic blocks, they are inexpensive. I have no idea why the harsh wear on mine other than 14,500 miles. The prior owner was kind to the sled and bought it with 7000 miles. Rest of bushings, etc shows expected wear, nothing beat up. It also has the HyGear spring spacers that go inside the springs to maintain centering location and consistent pressure so perhaps springs without it move off center as they fatigue, preventing the wear at the touch point on the tip above those bolts I show nearly worn through! Glad it made you check, maybe some others too, would be a nasty surprise on the trail to feel your spring rip through several feet of your track as you think WTF in a sideways slide to a non-ceremonious halt (best scenario, I don't want to contemplate likely situations at night head on...). The total off season inspection, tear down and regrease is short work w a few beers IMO.

 

[nickleuci]

My wear is very very minor. I should have taken s pic. Staps all the way out. No hygear spacers. I run on 1 or 2 dependent on conditions. Maybe once you wear through the rate of wear accelerates

I’ll be keeping an eye on them.

I have an 09 xtx as well. Coincidentally I just had my front end parts powder coated satin black a few weeks back too. I also changed out the silver and black rear axle wheel with the all black spoked yamaha wheels to finish off the new look. Sled looks great with the silver gone. The updated wheels have removable bearings, I think the ones you have do not.

The front end can be very tight with the oilite bushings at first. As they break in and loosen up check the a-arm mounting bolts, mine loosened a bit over time.


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[Gone Blue]

[A few questions:

1. FRONT END PARTS: What front end parts were improved on later model year nytros that will work on my 2009? I am going with the Ulmer Racing bushings and potentially the UP Bushman spindles and the balance stock Yamaha parts. Is there an improvement going with the 2013 three piece ball joint vs. the 2009 on piece ball joint (see pic) and using the revised collar in the upper A-arm as I plan to install some grease fittings on my 2009 era upper A-arms? Plus any other parts in the front end that I should consider aftermarket or a different year. A friend powder coated my A-arms, spindles and bumpers so front end will be murdered out when done.

Do the 2013 lower ball joints look like these SPI ones? I had picked a pair of these cheap SPI ball joints up for my Phazer to try but decided to keep them for the Nytro. Not sure how long they would last? Thx G.B.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sports-Par...361749776304?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

 

[nickleuci]

[A few questions:

1. FRONT END PARTS: What front end parts were improved on later model year nytros that will work on my 2009? I am going with the Ulmer Racing bushings and potentially the UP Bushman spindles and the balance stock Yamaha parts. Is there an improvement going with the 2013 three piece ball joint vs. the 2009 on piece ball joint (see pic) and using the revised collar in the upper A-arm as I plan to install some grease fittings on my 2009 era upper A-arms? Plus any other parts in the front end that I should consider aftermarket or a different year. A friend powder coated my A-arms, spindles and bumpers so front end will be murdered out when done.

Do the 2013 lower ball joints look like these SPI ones? I had picked a pair of these cheap SPI ball joints up for my Phazer to try but decided to keep them for the Nytro. Not sure how long they would last? Thx G.B.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sports-Par...361749776304?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

I just put those spi ball joints on my 09. You will need to order 4 of the inserts that go in them. Look at the parts diagram for a 13. I think there are pics in this thread too.


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[Gone Blue]

I just put those spi ball joints on my 09. You will need to order 4 of the inserts that go in them. Look at the parts diagram for a 13. I think there are pics in this thread too.


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Thanks Nickleuci. Are the inserts you are saying that are needed #28? I don't see a #13 near the ball joint??? Thx G.B.

 

[nickleuci]

Thanks Nickleuci. Are the inserts you are saying that are needed #28? I don't see a #13 near the ball joint??? Thx G.B.

Yes #28. I meant the parts diagram from a 2013. The OP put a diagram in on page 1 of this thread, you will see the inserts there. Worked perfectly with the SPI balls.


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[Gone Blue]

Yes #28. I meant the parts diagram from a 2013. The OP put a diagram in on page 1 of this thread, you will see the inserts there. Worked perfectly with the SPI balls.


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Cool, thanks. With the SPI ball joints a 1/3 of the cost of the Yamaha ones, I will be happy if I only get a couple seasons out of them. And it is good to see the SPI ball joints are the newer 2013 design. G.B.

 

[Hooray!]

Just returned from North Africa, you are correct the 2013 Nytro uses a three piece ball joint ball with two replaceable wear inserts so you only replace a $7 part not a $65 one. I went with all yamaha parts, not familiar with the SPI parts. Is there a web site for them?

 

[nickleuci]

Just returned from North Africa, you are correct the 2013 Nytro uses a three piece ball joint ball with two replaceable wear inserts so you only replace a $7 part not a $65 one. I went with all yamaha parts, not familiar with the SPI parts. Is there a web site for them?

I got mine from amazon. Just search yamaha nytro ball joints. It’s the Sport Parts Inc ones. (SPI). They are $26 each there, not sure what the oem ones cost.


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[Hooray!]

I am hopeful I only need $7 shims for the next few years. Will post results but plan to lubricate often with the adhesive lubricant so thinking they should last... I think the Yamaha ball is $50, not sure on hardness difference, etc but sounds like the SPI is 50% of the price.

 

[Gone Blue]

Just returned from North Africa, you are correct the 2013 Nytro uses a three piece ball joint ball with two replaceable wear inserts so you only replace a $7 part not a $65 one. I went with all Yamaha parts, not familiar with the SPI parts. Is there a web site for them?

SPI or Sports Parts Inc is a distributor and doesn't have a web site. Most powersports parts and accessory places sell SPI parts. I am sure they might not be the same quality as the Yamaha part but for the cost difference I figured I would try them. I recently installed an SPI crank fire sensor in my Phazer. Yamaha doesn't sell just the crank sensor you have to buy the complete stator assembly that includes the crank sensor were SPI you can buy just the crank sensor. $20 for the SPI crank sensor vs almost $300 for the Yamaha stator assembly. G.B.

 

[Hooray!]

My local dealer had the skid plate mount kit in stock so picked one up ($21). I was not sure what I needed in the kit as I also picked up some metric 6mm c-clips at my local ACE hardware for $0.85@ as well as an assortment of stainless 6mm machine bolts and washers. I bought both long and short "throw" c-clips as you can see in the pic not knowing how much distance I needed between the actual nut location and the end of the "c". The shorter ones worked so will return the longer versions. Ended up using three of the black 6mm bolts and black washers from the kit, two for the front of the skid plate (visible from front) as I bought longer 1.5" 6mm stainless machine bolts and ss fender washers for the four skid plate mounting locations and one to replace a missing bolt on the right lower side plastic. The black skid plate 6mm bolts were too short to align three layers of plastic (base plate, side plastics and skid plate) so bad decision by Yamaha in the kit, likely the reason for what appeared to be past issues aligning the bolt locations (too little bolt!). The tool that comes with the kit to compress the threaded inserts is interesting (see pic) but the c-clips will never spin so went with them vs. the inserts. Hoping to get the last back ordered Yamaha skids parts this coming week and the Hygear rear shock back from a rebuild so I can finish this round and be ready to hit the snow... hard to believe it is already December, first parts were ordered back in June and I have been slowly working along delivery of Yamaha back orders on what I consider to be wear parts (bushings, washers, collars, etc) since then!

 

[nickleuci]

FYI you can pick up all the stuff in that mount kit at your local hardware store. In case you bugger up one of the rivets on install. I had to replace a few on an 06 vector, found them at ACE.

My experience is that all the yamaha nuts and bolts are high quality except those philips head screws, for some reason the metal seems soft and they like to strip.

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