2010 nytro running rough

[Seanratchford]

Sled is a 2010 nytro alpine front mount with a pure logic box. so sled started to gain a flat spot coming down the trail last week. Thought it was the fuel pump changed it, msd pump, new fuel. Changed out the fpr sitting at 45psi at idle, swapped out injectors and tried a new put logic box. Sled still runs like #*$&@ when it’s cold starts up runs fine after but after 2 or 3 min it will stall if I hit the throttle. Tors already deleted compression is 165 across the 3 holes. No codes. I’m stumped

 

[NEVER_LIFT26]

Watching

 

[Seanratchford]

Wondering if anyone has had a crank sensor go bad with out throwing a code. Sled has 1500km

 

[radianguy]

Have you checked the common harness rub spots? Behind clutch, in front by steering post and brake side?
I had a situation where it seemed like a coil breaking down after sled ran for about 20 minutes, ended up being a chaffed wire in harness on clutch side. I had no codes.

 

[Seanratchford]

Have you checked the common harness rub spots? Behind clutch, in front by steering post and brake side?
I had a situation where it seemed like a coil breaking down after sled ran for about 20 minutes, ended up being a chaffed wire in harness on clutch side. I had no codes.

Yea checked all that out. have now swapped throttle body’s out no change. It’s strange when i kill the engine and open the throttle bodies I get exhaust gas out of them. Thinking possibly timing skipped.

 

[grizztracks]

There have been a few reports of faulty crank sensors that didn't set a code. You may want to change it out before going further. I've also read a few reports of valves sticking in the guides.

Compression seems low. If I remember right it should be around 200 psi. A leak down test would give you better info.

 

[Seanratchford]

There have been a few reports of faulty crank sensors that didn't set a code. You may want to change it out before going further. I've also read a few reports of valves sticking in the guides.

Compression seems low. If I remember right it should be around 200 psi. A leak down test would give you better info.

Yea checked timing today spot on and did a leakdown passed with flying colours. Compression is spot on for the pistons has low compression je pistons and Carrillo rods. Yea I’m stumped how do you exzactly test the crank sensor ? I’m at 411 ohms

 

[Hooray!]

These engines seem cold blooded... Let them warm up 8-10min and no idle issue. Let them warm up 2-3min and they stall when you let rpm go back below 1200 rpm.

 

[Seanratchford]

These engines seem cold blooded... Let them warm up 8-10min and no idle issue. Let them warm up 2-3min and they stall when you let rpm go back below 1200 rpm.

Yea it’s usually good but it won’t even idle past 4 min. On its startup fuel map it’s ok starts great. When the red light goes out starts to miss then eventually dies.

 

[Hooray!]

Good point, never thought about a map change as you are right, the red light goes out as coolant warms up and I bet they do change the map... I do know that it seems like the idle point is not perfect, at least not on mine. I have not looked into an adjustment but mine idles on the low side even when hot... when cold, if I don't let it warm up, it will stall when I let off the throttle like when crossing a road to a gas station when leaving hotel first thing in the AM.

 

[Seanratchford]

Good point, never thought about a map change as you are right, the red light goes out as coolant warms up and I bet they do change the map... I do know that it seems like the idle point is not perfect, at least not on mine. I have not looked into an adjustment but mine idles on the low side even when hot... when cold, if I don't let it warm up, it will stall when I let off the throttle like when crossing a road to a gas station when leaving hotel first thing in the AM.

Well pulled my turbo to get at my valve cover. Timing has jumped 1 tooth going to order a manual tensioner no more hydraulic junk!

 

[Seanratchford]

Won’t let me upload a photo to big for server

 

[Hooray!]

Have to resize the pics below 2mb.

 

[Seanratchford]

I’m having some issues with timing can’t seem to get the marks to line up perfectly. As per the manual it’s supposed to be at the first line on the flywheel. Mine only gets close at the second line.

 

[grizztracks]

This is the normal position to align the flywheel marks in the stator cover window.