The old TSS Phazer chassis.
mike g
Extreme
Interesting suspension design here http://backcountryrebels.com/showthread ... post909237
Ummm.... the idea shows innovation but I just don't see it working out very well in real life. I don't see that front suspension reacting to bumps well at all. But I think it would have been really cool if he would have converted it to a single ski. Simpler, lighter and would likely be a lot easier to make work halfway decently. I'll be watching that thread to see how it turns out.
melmaq
Extreme
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2011
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- 65
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- Umeå, Sweden
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- Sweden
- Snowmobile
- TNytro MCX 240
Nikolai:
I love this thread and alot of the posts that you contribute with!
But before this goes any further with your new chassie build, shouldn't you create a 2013 AK sled build, or 2014?
I love this thread and alot of the posts that you contribute with!
But before this goes any further with your new chassie build, shouldn't you create a 2013 AK sled build, or 2014?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I'll start a new thread once I have enough parts to begin the layout, which may take a bit. I still have lots of little things I want to do the current ride that I'll keep posting in this thread. I want my sled under 440 lbs, preferably under 500 lbs completely wet.
Sportsterdanne
TY 4 Stroke Guru
499 wet Would be Awesome !
Do anyone know the wet weight of a Pro with turbo ?
Do anyone know the wet weight of a Pro with turbo ?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I was searching through some old posts on Snowest and found a couple old pictures I had posted of my Rev. I installed a Diamond Drive from a ZR900 in it, this was back in 2005 or 2006 I think. Brought back some good memories finding the pics tonight. I never weighed the sled but it had to be close to the 400 lb mark, I could lift it into the back of my truck by myself.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
What do you guys think, will 7/16 x .058 4130 hold up as a wear bar? The factory gripper carbides are .77 lbs each without hardware. I estimate chromoly wear bars would be about a .75 lb weight savings. I think I'm going to weld one up and just try it one ski for now so it's not a big waste of money if it doesn't work out. Hopefully I can get one made Sunday. The tube in the pic is just for reference, mine will duplicate the factory bar.
In case anyone is curious, just the disc itself is 1.42 lbs. The hub is .41 lbs.
Flipped the hub around and temporarily mounted the rotor on the inside.
I need to have about .2" of the splines machined out of the hub so it will slide over enough to mount the caliper on the other side of the chaincase cover mounts.
What I'd really like to do is find a new outer seal that's tight around the jackshaft, then get rid of the steel collar with the set screw, flip the hub back around and machine another 3/4" of splines to get the hub close to the chaincase cover, and float the disc. You could cut almost 1.25" of jackshaft off. You'd end saving well over a pound but I'm sure lengthening the splines is $$$. I also don't know how well it would work to have a floating brake disc.
Boredom got the best of me tonight.
In case anyone is curious, just the disc itself is 1.42 lbs. The hub is .41 lbs.
Flipped the hub around and temporarily mounted the rotor on the inside.
I need to have about .2" of the splines machined out of the hub so it will slide over enough to mount the caliper on the other side of the chaincase cover mounts.
What I'd really like to do is find a new outer seal that's tight around the jackshaft, then get rid of the steel collar with the set screw, flip the hub back around and machine another 3/4" of splines to get the hub close to the chaincase cover, and float the disc. You could cut almost 1.25" of jackshaft off. You'd end saving well over a pound but I'm sure lengthening the splines is $$$. I also don't know how well it would work to have a floating brake disc.
Boredom got the best of me tonight.
mike g
Extreme
Alternative impact makes Ti wear bars for grippers and I think they are .75lb savings for the set.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
mike g said:
They are $145 + S&H and save .5 lbs. I'd have about $30 in chromoly for both if I built my own.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I made a round bar today, I'll make the other one tomorrow. They're 18" long and and made from 7/16 .058. Total material cost for the tubing and bolts is about $20.
I used my 1/2" tube bender which worked fine without distorting the tube. Took 6 bends to match the factory bar.
I used 5/16 x 1-1/4" bolts and cut the heads off. I ended cutting the studs down after they were welded on so the next one(s) I'll use 1" long bolts.
Next step was to build a crude jig. I need to make some slight adjustments but it came out pretty dang close.
All finished next to the oem bar.
I still need to run either a full length 1/8" wide strip of .035 sheet, or an inch long piece at each bend or I'm afraid gravel will eat through the tube. I'll probably just run multiple pieces for now. If the bars hold up fine then I'm going to build another set out of 7/16 .035 and run full length wear strips.
The stock carbides are .76 lbs ea.
My round tube bars are .43 lbs ea. as pictured (need to add the wear strips still)
Right now, the weight loss for both is about .66 lbs. With the wear strips it should still be over .60. An .035 set should save around .75 - .80 lbs.
Complete ski weight with the round tube and no ski rubber is 5.24 lbs. I'm hoping with .035 round bars, aluminum nuts, and some other small changes I can get the complete ski weight under 5 lbs.
I used my 1/2" tube bender which worked fine without distorting the tube. Took 6 bends to match the factory bar.
I used 5/16 x 1-1/4" bolts and cut the heads off. I ended cutting the studs down after they were welded on so the next one(s) I'll use 1" long bolts.
Next step was to build a crude jig. I need to make some slight adjustments but it came out pretty dang close.
All finished next to the oem bar.
I still need to run either a full length 1/8" wide strip of .035 sheet, or an inch long piece at each bend or I'm afraid gravel will eat through the tube. I'll probably just run multiple pieces for now. If the bars hold up fine then I'm going to build another set out of 7/16 .035 and run full length wear strips.
The stock carbides are .76 lbs ea.
My round tube bars are .43 lbs ea. as pictured (need to add the wear strips still)
Right now, the weight loss for both is about .66 lbs. With the wear strips it should still be over .60. An .035 set should save around .75 - .80 lbs.
Complete ski weight with the round tube and no ski rubber is 5.24 lbs. I'm hoping with .035 round bars, aluminum nuts, and some other small changes I can get the complete ski weight under 5 lbs.
I was wrong Mike. A.I.'s Ti. ones are .9 lbs lighter, I never saw his last post on Snowest.
mike g
Extreme
Could you just run a bead of hard face rod instead of wear pads? I'd be worried about creating a lip for rocks to snag.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I can look into that. I'd probably fuse the thin wear strips to the tube so there wouldn't really be any lip to start with, it'd be about 1/32" tall.
Since the sub 400 lb sled will have it's own home brew suspension, I wanted to start experimenting with spindles on my current ride to see if they'll hold up. The factory spindles are about 2.2 lbs each and I think I can make chromoly ones that are about half the weight. Right now I'm kind of leaning towards a single 1-1/4 .058 tube with tabs as pictured. I also may end up just copying Timbersleds old welded spindle design, I'm undecided.
Tomorrow I'm going to order the rod ends for my new a-arms. I've been looking at rod ends for a few months now and finally decided on some FK's. I was going to use some high misalignment chromoly ends from QA1 but the FK's are a 3 piece design and have higher load ratings, about the strongest rod ends I could find online. Misalignment is 21 degrees on the 1/2", and 19 degrees on the 5/8". They are quite a bit more than the QA1's at $45 ea. for the 5/8" and $35 ea. for the 1/2", but strength is a priority here.
FK high mis chromoly rod ends
I also have a set of Fox Float 3's on the way. Last year I weighed both skis, spindles, shocks, all four a-arms, and mounting bolts and it came in at 40 lbs. I'm hoping I can get the complete front end down to 32-33 lbs.
Since the sub 400 lb sled will have it's own home brew suspension, I wanted to start experimenting with spindles on my current ride to see if they'll hold up. The factory spindles are about 2.2 lbs each and I think I can make chromoly ones that are about half the weight. Right now I'm kind of leaning towards a single 1-1/4 .058 tube with tabs as pictured. I also may end up just copying Timbersleds old welded spindle design, I'm undecided.
Tomorrow I'm going to order the rod ends for my new a-arms. I've been looking at rod ends for a few months now and finally decided on some FK's. I was going to use some high misalignment chromoly ends from QA1 but the FK's are a 3 piece design and have higher load ratings, about the strongest rod ends I could find online. Misalignment is 21 degrees on the 1/2", and 19 degrees on the 5/8". They are quite a bit more than the QA1's at $45 ea. for the 5/8" and $35 ea. for the 1/2", but strength is a priority here.
FK high mis chromoly rod ends
I also have a set of Fox Float 3's on the way. Last year I weighed both skis, spindles, shocks, all four a-arms, and mounting bolts and it came in at 40 lbs. I'm hoping I can get the complete front end down to 32-33 lbs.
So 3 floats coming? I can see mono rear suspension.. 
It is actually quite simple to do, even easier to buy if wallet is thick enough. Maybe with some carbon it is light enough for you too?
Nextech
Negative side to my riding style is coupled suspension, so wheelies is reduced to minimum and that is real pita in our forests with lots of ditches and complicated terrain. Good for hillclimbing, but who wants to go straightest line..
It is actually quite simple to do, even easier to buy if wallet is thick enough. Maybe with some carbon it is light enough for you too?Nextech
Negative side to my riding style is coupled suspension, so wheelies is reduced to minimum and that is real pita in our forests with lots of ditches and complicated terrain. Good for hillclimbing, but who wants to go straightest line..