2018 SW - Rotor/Disc - Help

[Sevey]

I have a rotor where the caliper bearing-inner race has cut into the face (since the shaft was spinning on the bearing). I had filed it flat, and the bearing has spun again likely cutting into it.

I was hoping someone could give me the stock dimension or thickness of the rotor (in the shaft area) - as I am planning to have it built up with weld and machined down to original spec.
MS

 

[Turboflash]

Really no reason to do that. The brake pads should keep the rotor centered. Doesn't matter if rotor hub is touching or is near bearing.

 

[Sevey]

But a stock/normal rotor tapers to rest against the inner race of the bearing, I have removed material so that area is now larger and possibly resting against the bearing's inner race & seal. Not ideal.

The first time it happened it was quite deep - somewhere between 0.5 mm and 0.75 mm. It was a lot - looked like a cookie cutter.
MS

 

[04nightfire]

I have a rotor where the caliper bearing-inner race has cut into the face (since the shaft was spinning on the bearing). I had filed it flat, and the bearing has spun again likely cutting into it.

I was hoping someone could give me the stock dimension or thickness of the rotor (in the shaft area) - as I am planning to have it built up with weld and machined down to original spec.
MS

Hit up Mike Raw at Bear Machine out of Orillia. He is set up to do this. https://www.facebook.com/Bearmachine/

 

[Turboflash]

But a stock/normal rotor tapers to rest against the inner race of the bearing, I have removed material so that area is now larger and possibly resting against the bearing's inner race & seal. Not ideal.

The first time it happened it was quite deep - somewhere between 0.5 mm and 0.75 mm. It was a lot - looked like a cookie cutter.
MS

My hunch is when you're riding, the rotor isn't against the bearing at all since you've already shortened the hub some. Lock brake on and get a mirror and good bright light to look in there.

 

[STAIN]

Why not get a new rotor? They are not much money, and you could upgrade to the LE/RR rotor.
BDX sells superlite drilled rotor for $120

 

[Sevey]

Why not get a new rotor? They are not much money, and you could upgrade to the LE/RR rotor.
BDX sells superlite drilled rotor for $120

Stock rotor here in our lovely country is $385 plus tax,

I am already pissed i am having to do this (again) - Shaft is gonna be $400 - plus Hi Tech bearing, that’s another $380 ish with tax. I am trying to minimize the hemorrhaging.
MS

 

[Sevey]

My hunch is when you're riding, the rotor isn't against the bearing at all since you've already shortened the hub some. Lock brake on and get a mirror and good bright light to look in there.

I bought shim washers from McMaster Car that allow me to place them behind the outer snap ring on the shaft - pushing the bearing as tight as possible against the inner snap ring. So it’s tight - and if it’s spun - cookie cutter time.
MS

 

[REDLINE 1]

Stock rotor here in our lovely country is $385 plus tax,

I am already pissed i am having to do this (again) - Shaft is gonna be $400 - plus Hi Tech bearing, that’s another $380 ish with tax. I am trying to minimize the hemorrhaging.
MS

I’m trying to understand what the Hi tech bearing actually does? I called Ron Ward to get some info but never heard back from him. Looks like a nice piece but I don’t see how it stops the caliper bearing from spinning. Maybe the the intent of the original design was not to lock the bearing to the shaft to allow movement if the chassis flexes??

 

[Sevey]

I’m trying to understand what the Hi tech bearing actually does? I called Ron Ward to get some info but never heard back from him. Looks like a nice piece but I don’t see how it stops the caliper bearing from spinning. Maybe the the intent of the original design was not to lock the bearing to the shaft to allow movement if the chassis flexes??

I am getting to be a little bit of an expert on this topic (not by choice).

-I have tried the wedge. It wasn’t until i had the shaft out of the sled clamped to a bench where I could bring on the torque and see the gripping power it had on the bearing. Even at 60 ft lbs, it was barely holding the bearing on. This was back in 2018-2020. Didn’t work.

- then i tried having the shaft built up and pinned, and the bearing notched. This lasted two seasons and eventually the pin was ground down and pulverized. and the shaft started spinning.

- then I tried the bearing with the long collar and set screws. Barely 2000km on it and its spinning.

The Hi Tech solution just concedes there is movement likely via flex and allows the tunnel and bearing to slip on the shaft. It lubricates both the inner and outer bearing that support the drive shaft - so there is no grinding and shaft degradation. If you don’t like the sound of this. Ask yourself if the chain case bearing slips - 100% it does. The only reason it doesn’t grind down is it’s bathed in oil. I have tested my shaft with 15,000km on it and the dimensions on the chain case side do not degrade.

The guys that have built there shaft up and press the bearing on have claimed to have good results. The only thing I question is beating the caliper assembly with the bearing - onto the shaft. It’s one thing to press a bearing onto a shaft, It’s another to hammer it on with a pipe (presumably). Getting it off - your gonna need a puller. It it corrodes on the shaft it will be lots of fun getting it off. I am of the belief that if there is no movement that rigidity is going to show up somewhere else. Likely the rivets that hold the tunnel together or where the tunnel fastens to the bulkhead.

Sorry for the winded response. Ron is great to chat with and very knowledgeable about the product. He can cite the testing they have done which sounds extensive. I look forward to this being the last time I have this apart.
MS

 

[REDLINE 1]

I am getting to be a little bit of an expert on this topic (not by choice).

-I have tried the wedge. It wasn’t until i had the shaft out of the sled clamped to a bench where I could bring on the torque and see the gripping power it had on the bearing. Even at 60 ft lbs, it was barely holding the bearing on. This was back in 2018-2020. Didn’t work.

- then i tried having the shaft built up and pinned, and the bearing notched. This lasted two seasons and eventually the pin was ground down and pulverized. and the shaft started spinning.

- then I tried the bearing with the long collar and set screws. Barely 2000km on it and its spinning.

The Hi Tech solution just concedes there is movement likely via flex and allows the tunnel and bearing to slip on the shaft. It lubricates both the inner and outer bearing that support the drive shaft - so there is no grinding and shaft degradation. If you don’t like the sound of this. Ask yourself if the chain case bearing slips - 100% it does. The only reason it doesn’t grind down is it’s bathed in oil. I have tested my shaft with 15,000km on it and the dimensions on the chain case side do not degrade.

The guys that have built there shaft up and press the bearing on have claimed to have good results. The only thing I question is beating the caliper assembly with the bearing - onto the shaft. It’s one thing to press a bearing onto a shaft, It’s another to hammer it on with a pipe (presumably). Getting it off - your gonna need a puller. It it corrodes on the shaft it will be lots of fun getting it off. I am of the belief that if there is no movement that rigidity is going to show up somewhere else. Likely the rivets that hold the tunnel together or where the tunnel fastens to the bulkhead.

Sorry for the winded response. Ron is great to chat with and very knowledgeable about the product. He can cite the testing they have done which sounds extensive. I look forward to this being the last time I have this apart.
MS

Makes sense. I’ve had good luck with the BOP wedge so far but have wondered if the. Intent of the engineering was for it to move (right or wrong) with the flex of the tunnel

 

[Turboflash]

I am getting to be a little bit of an expert on this topic (not by choice).

-I have tried the wedge. It wasn’t until i had the shaft out of the sled clamped to a bench where I could bring on the torque and see the gripping power it had on the bearing. Even at 60 ft lbs, it was barely holding the bearing on. This was back in 2018-2020. Didn’t work.

- then i tried having the shaft built up and pinned, and the bearing notched. This lasted two seasons and eventually the pin was ground down and pulverized. and the shaft started spinning.

- then I tried the bearing with the long collar and set screws. Barely 2000km on it and its spinning.

The Hi Tech solution just concedes there is movement likely via flex and allows the tunnel and bearing to slip on the shaft. It lubricates both the inner and outer bearing that support the drive shaft - so there is no grinding and shaft degradation. If you don’t like the sound of this. Ask yourself if the chain case bearing slips - 100% it does. The only reason it doesn’t grind down is it’s bathed in oil. I have tested my shaft with 15,000km on it and the dimensions on the chain case side do not degrade.

The guys that have built there shaft up and press the bearing on have claimed to have good results. The only thing I question is beating the caliper assembly with the bearing - onto the shaft. It’s one thing to press a bearing onto a shaft, It’s another to hammer it on with a pipe (presumably). Getting it off - your gonna need a puller. It it corrodes on the shaft it will be lots of fun getting it off. I am of the belief that if there is no movement that rigidity is going to show up somewhere else. Likely the rivets that hold the tunnel together or where the tunnel fastens to the bulkhead.

Sorry for the winded response. Ron is great to chat with and very knowledgeable about the product. He can cite the testing they have done which sounds extensive. I look forward to this being the last time I have this apart.
MS

I had my shaft spray welded 6 years ago. Caliper bearing is pressed on using a tool I made (basically a deep well socket that just fits OD of shaft and presses on inner racecof bearing as it presses bearing on that's already un caliper. There is no beating or pounding. I use a threaded rod that passes through the track shaft out the chain case side with a small plate and nut on each end to press caliper on.
Never been an issue. Zero vibration. No spinning of shaft in bearing. Not even a tiny bit. I regrease bearing annually just because. Zero issues. Shaft is exactly on center, no vibration, no tunnel flexing. If I want to pull caliper assy off, I use a puller that uses the 3 threaded holes in caliper and a flat 1/4" steel plate that presses against end of shaft to pull it off. Very easy and works perfect. Travis from BOP posted the template here on TY for puller.
Here is link to pullers - Cat has one, and BOP has one.
Post in thread 'Help with getting a rotor off' https://ty4stroke.com/threads/help-with-getting-a-rotor-off.164891/post-1590717

 

[Sevey]

Looks like a good set up
mS

 

[Sevey]

Back to the original question - any know what the measurement is on a new rotor?
MS

 

[stgdz]

Why not get a new rotor? They are not much money, and you could upgrade to the LE/RR rotor.
BDX sells superlite drilled rotor for $120

those kill brake pads in an instant