2024 Sidewider LTX GT EPS

[fatchance]

We spend 100's of dollars on studs, and many hours drilling and installing them. The investment in tunnel protectors is minimal. Cheap insurance.

You're not wrong, If i was worried about contact in there i would definitely install them if nothing else for piece of mind. I ordered a couple sets last year and installed one of them on the 24' that had quite the mishap, but needles to say the tunnel protectors didn't help in that situation. The other set is in a box in the trailer, but it's just not one of those things i worry about while riding.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Just another. Looking for a trail clutch setup. Dalton? Heel clicker? Heavy hitters? Keep secondary reverse helix or go to traditional helix.

 

[jonlafon1]

Straight 35,37,38 helix. OR 41/37 helix. Some are using bigger spreads also. Like 41/35, 42/33 etc. The straight 35 probably best ALL around for trail.
Pick you poison on weights. (Heavy hitters, Daltons) Dalton Black/orange secondary spring.
Lots of clutching set ups and different helixes/weights/springs being used. But many using some form of combination of the ones I listed.
Trail set up will depend if tuned, gearing and traction. Not sure how many are using the stock primary spring. Myself I do not. I like the Yamaha yellow/green/yellow OR yellow/white/yellow for primary. Its hard to say XYZ will be best(trail) as so many guys are on different components and set ups related to gearing, traction, tracks.

 

[blevis213]

Straight 35,37,38 helix. OR 41/37 helix. Some are using bigger spreads also. Like 41/35, 42/33 etc. The straight 35 probably best ALL around for trail.
Pick you poison on weights. (Heavy hitters, Daltons) Dalton Black/orange secondary spring.
Lots of clutching set ups and different helixes/weights/springs being used. But many using some form of combination of the ones I listed.
Trail set up will depend if tuned, gearing and traction. Not sure how many are using the stock primary spring. Myself I do not. I like the Yamaha yellow/green/yellow OR yellow/white/yellow for primary. Its hard to say XYZ will be best(trail) as so many guys are on different components and set ups related to gearing, traction, tracks.

what about lake or field with hurricane pm bundle

 

[jonlafon1]

what about lake or field with hurricane pm bundle

SAME . These sidewinders are different in that many set ups will work just fine as long as you put some time in checking secondary temps and getting proper tension in secondary. Its just not one size fits all with these

 

[rb2001srx700]

Straight 35,37,38 helix. OR 41/37 helix. Some are using bigger spreads also. Like 41/35, 42/33 etc. The straight 35 probably best ALL around for trail.
Pick you poison on weights. (Heavy hitters, Daltons) Dalton Black/orange secondary spring.
Lots of clutching set ups and different helixes/weights/springs being used. But many using some form of combination of the ones I listed.
Trail set up will depend if tuned, gearing and traction. Not sure how many are using the stock primary spring. Myself I do not. I like the Yamaha yellow/green/yellow OR yellow/white/yellow for primary. Its hard to say XYZ will be best(trail) as so many guys are on different components and set ups related to gearing, traction, tracks.

Once I get it studded I will probably start with the clutch setups. Just over 100 miles on her so far. Hugh difference from the viper.

 

[jonlafon1]

Once I get it studded I will probably start with the clutch setups. Just over 100 miles on her so far. Hugh difference from the viper.

I went from a 2015 Cat 7000 (that I loved with a tuner on it) to a 2017 Sidewinder with ecotrail . WOW what a difference. I remember the first time I drove it. Was like holly fu%^ this thing pulls! Welcome to the club

 

[rb2001srx700]

I was working on the winder and I am able to get the off set to 61.5. Is that going to be good enough for a 2024 sidewinder or do I need to have it cut down. This was when removing washer not the circlip.

Thanks guys

 

[blevis213]

I was working on the winder and I am able to get the off set to 61.5. Is that going to be good enough for a 2024 sidewinder or do I need to have it cut down. This was when removing washer not the circlip.

Thanks guys

I don't remember the exact number, but I do know that my 23 needs approx 1.5 mm or so more than my 17 was running using new XS825 belts. So saying that, the Hurricane bar does not work correctly on my 23. What changed? I believe the center to center changed from my 17 to the 23. A new XS 825 belt needs to sit down further in my 23 secondary than it did on the 17 with the same deflection.

There are many factors that will make the offset perfect for every machine, center to center, belt length and width as well. Only way to know the perfect offset is to measure it with the belt under tension and use a straight edge on the belt at full shift on the clutches and measure from belt to the straight edge to find out what's perfect on your machine and belt being used.
above is a copy and paste from knapp. So i'm guessing 59-59.5 is going to be close where you need to be. So if you take off 3mm and use 1mm washer you should be dead nuts on.

 

[fatchance]

The offset is an arbitrary number. I can tell you now you now at 61.5 you will have to cut the backside of the secondary hub down and go 4mm so you have wiggle room and worse case you can shim it out. This will also come in handy if you blow a belt and the bearing gets pushed out of the stub shaft housing. Mocking up the clutch is easy, it doesn't take much time just patience.

And absolutely do not remove the circlip on the secondary side!

 

[KnappAttack]

Well you can remove the circlip without issue if you bolt the secondary down solid and don't float it. It will be held in place solid. 1.5 MM to be picked up if you do that.

 

[rb2001srx700]

The offset is an arbitrary number. I can tell you now you now at 61.5 you will have to cut the backside of the secondary hub down and go 4mm so you have wiggle room and worse case you can shim it out. This will also come in handy if you blow a belt and the bearing gets pushed out of the stub shaft housing. Mocking up the clutch is easy, it doesn't take much time just patience.

And absolutely do not remove the circlip on the secondary side!

I wouldn't think that would be good removing the clip.

 

[rb2001srx700]

Well you can remove the circlip without issue if you bolt the secondary down solid and don't float it. It will be held in place solid. 1.5 MM to be picked up if you do that.

I like a cushion between the bearing and secondary. It's crazy we have to have a brand new sled worked on like this. But when it's done she should last a very long time.

 

[KnappAttack]

I like a cushion between the bearing and secondary. It's crazy we have to have a brand new sled worked on like this. But when it's done she should last a very long time.

I've run many without the snap ring, in fact running the secondary against the bearing shows less wear and abuse than running it on the snap ring alone with no washer in front of it. That said, you better know how to eliminate the factory float and figure a different way for belt deflection. The secondary need bolted down solid against the bearing race so the shaft doesnt move. I shim in-between the sheaves like the old Cat reverse cam secondaries for belt deflection adjustments.

I had one in here once that kept the factory float and belt deflection, and the shaft moved in the bearing after some miles. So I dont recommend removing the snap ring and allowing it to float anymore to get proper offset.

 

[fatchance]

Wow Mike, I never would have trusted that secondary enough to remove the snap ring! Guys must understand that in doing so they have to pay close attention for clearance issues if they intend on cutting the backside of the hub down. As well as like you say zero float, since any end play transfers over to the chaincase.