3 gallons or less in your tank!!

[Turboflash]

Hi all! I learned a lot from this forum for my 17 Tcat. I was experiencing the fuel starvation ...TD bundle tunes 250-300 hp after upgrading fuel pump to the GSS342 last year.. I use Race Gas Concentrate as octane booster with 93 octane gas. Pumps were noisy and hot when happened. Let cool and could continue ride until pump heated up. Tried 3 different pumps and weighted down the Y fuel pickups with nuts and moved return line to top of fuel pump housing also. (A side note too:if using rubber hose inside tank to connect fuel pump to head unit, need to use submersible fuel line. I used regular fuel injection line and when changing the pumps it was sticky and tacky...not designed to be in gas. So got a piece of submersible fuel line.) Even did adjustable pressure regulator. Installed heavy duty relay for fuel pump directly to battery with factory fuel pump power wire as control wire to relay. Rode with fuel pressure test gauge T'd into supply line. When acted up pressure dropped to 15 or 20 psi.

Sooo, after watching the PEFI video several times saw that they draw the fuel from the Y pickups with the return line, I ordered and installed the PEFI pump unit for this season with an inline Hyperfuel fuel filter just before the injector fuel rail, thanks to Turboflash's post on this forum. Thought my troubles were over. Well it acted up again. Got it home, took pump unit out and noticed the coragated tube looked like it was kinked slightly do to pump orientation and Oetiker clamp on coragated tube between pump and fuel head was not clamped tight enough allowing some leakage. Removed clamp and installed new. I also had used a regular fuel injection clamp on the pickup tube to return line T. Ditched that clamp and used an Oetiker clamp on it as well. All my fuel line clamps are now Oetiker. Double check all fuel line clamps!!

While doing this, I was thinking that the only thing I didn't change when all this was happening was the filter socks.I had cleaned them with carb cleaner once.( Maybe this ruined the one on the pump?) Since the filter sock on the pump is only available buy buying a complete oem pump assembly, i tried to find one from Walbro... but they don't list the dimensions.Looked at pictures of many. So i looked up Holley Hydramat and found that they have a 3" by 8" part # 16-125 which is slightly larger than the oem and will fit on our fuel pump... universal 6 position clocking pin holes.I clipped off an edge of the mounting plastic for filter to fit on pump inlet , but may not have needed to do that. When I reinstalled pump, i rotated the pump slightly to make damn sure the coragated tube has a nice S bend...no kinks and the Hydramat filter sock is oriented to the right side of the surge tank directly under the return line.And i changed the filter socks on the Y pickup, too. Had to use aftermarket SPI filter socks on it. Started sled up on lift and immediately saw better higher fuel pressure on fuel pressure tester gauge at idle and quick revup . Rode sled and haven't had a problem in the 800 miles I've ridden this season so far.

That's my experience.

I cut open the filters on end of the Y pickup. They are just a plastic mesh screen inside of of a plastic mesh housing. When i cut open the filter sock on pump, the filter media looked like a version of the oil absorbent Pig Mat with a plastic mesh screen also.

I run the PEFI fuel pump upgrade as well. I was not happy with the fact they re-use the stock in-tank strainer at pump inlet. When I first pulled my stock pump out to make the change, the stock strainer was folded (kinked) exactly right over the pump inlet! Not good. I researched in-tank strainers and came up with a much better one that actually has about a 90 deg angle on the inlet fitting; and is larger; and is wider. It was too long so I just cut it a bit shorter but then used a couple of zip ties around the pump itself to make sure the end I closed was sealed.
Also, the stock corrugated hose was too long (as SDFTCAT mentions) so I shortened both ends some (both ends have about 3/4" of tubing that is not corrugated) so it had a nice fit to both the pump outlet and the outlet fitting in the billet tank cover. Used Oeitker clamps on both ends.
Return line on PEFI kit is like 3/8" or 7/16". Pressure line is 5/16".
Strainer (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...fuel-pump-strainer/idf0/s14005?q=s14005&pos=0)

 

[max rolph]

soo guys thanks for all the help, soo i put new walbro pump in with new sock that i had, the fitting slides on and the sock folds up on either side, i put a new corragated hose on and clameped well, also cleaned the crows feet and put it back on and clamped it in right position to keep flat on bottom of tank.... (have ordered the holly mat and the new crows feet Quantom socks) replaced the elbow for return line with metal one from Kimpex as it has a barb nipple in tank side and i put on a 3" piece of hose soo the return fuel goes right onto sock in basket. cranked pressure to 50 PSI on regulator and only put 3 gallons in tank and went out ... this is less than what i had yesterday when it was really stalling letting off throttle, drove hard several 121 mph pulls on trail and its warm today at +4 out... temps got to 190ish before i put scratcher dwn which brought it back to 168-172, .... WORKING GREAT!! i still dont get it.... the quantum pump seamed good, or was it that i added the line to make fuel go right into basket??? im still fn skeptical being that a stock sled doesnt need this or act like mine did even when it doesnt have return done. im not counting my chickens yet till i run my tank dwn on a long run, also i did not take note of which way the gas gauge sending unit goes into tank... mine is only reading 1/4 and im full...lol i put it in as shown on parts picture... with the sealed U shape with wire at front.

Hey Knapp, there is a MAP sensor on the fuel rail over number 3 throttle body, could that be why we are lean at idle, they say that is for low rpm and before 30% throttle then TPS takes over.

 

[SDFTCAT]

Max, i did the same as you did with the sending unit according to parts diagram. Forgot to take a pic of it before removing. and it read 1/4 tank when full. Took it out and reinstalled with the float facing front of tank.(front left i think) Read properly then. Glad to hear yours is better now. I think the key is return flow past the T into the basket.

 

[KnappAttack]

soo guys thanks for all the help, soo i put new walbro pump in with new sock that i had, the fitting slides on and the sock folds up on either side, i put a new corragated hose on and clameped well, also cleaned the crows feet and put it back on and clamped it in right position to keep flat on bottom of tank.... (have ordered the holly mat and the new crows feet Quantom socks) replaced the elbow for return line with metal one from Kimpex as it has a barb nipple in tank side and i put on a 3" piece of hose soo the return fuel goes right onto sock in basket. cranked pressure to 50 PSI on regulator and only put 3 gallons in tank and went out ... this is less than what i had yesterday when it was really stalling letting off throttle, drove hard several 121 mph pulls on trail and its warm today at +4 out... temps got to 190ish before i put scratcher dwn which brought it back to 168-172, .... WORKING GREAT!! i still dont get it.... the quantum pump seamed good, or was it that i added the line to make fuel go right into basket??? im still fn skeptical being that a stock sled doesnt need this or act like mine did even when it doesnt have return done. im not counting my chickens yet till i run my tank dwn on a long run, also i did not take note of which way the gas gauge sending unit goes into tank... mine is only reading 1/4 and im full...lol i put it in as shown on parts picture... with the sealed U shape with wire at front.

Hey Knapp, there is a MAP sensor on the fuel rail over number 3 throttle body, could that be why we are lean at idle, they say that is for low rpm and before 30% throttle then TPS takes over.

Glad you got it running better max, I know about that MAP sensor behind the throttle bodies, interesting its used for fueling below 30% throttle, I believe its the same 2 BAR map sensor as used up front stock too.

 

[max rolph]

Max, i did the same as you did with the sending unit according to parts diagram. Forgot to take a pic of it before removing. and it read 1/4 tank when full. Took it out and reinstalled with the float facing front of tank.(front left i think) Read properly then. Glad to hear yours is better now. I think the key is return flow past the T into the basket.

Thanks SDFTCAT, glad to know i have company in forgetting to take a pic, soo the U where wire is at back?

Knapp, do you think that might have something to do with idle afr? the GAP auto tune does nothing at idle. plus im only crossing my fingers as to my troubles gone.... but i did have less fuel than the day before when it was really acting up, and it ran great. tryed several hard pulls up to 121mph and then hit brakes and brought back to idle ... no stumble. why wouldnt a stock sled act the same way mine did?? thats why logically im scared to think there is something else.

 

[KnappAttack]

Thanks SDFTCAT, glad to know i have company in forgetting to take a pic, soo the U where wire is at back?

Knapp, do you think that might have something to do with idle afr? the GAP auto tune does nothing at idle. plus im only crossing my fingers as to my troubles gone.... but i did have less fuel than the day before when it was really acting up, and it ran great. tryed several hard pulls up to 121mph and then hit brakes and brought back to idle ... no stumble. why wouldnt a stock sled act the same way mine did?? thats why logically im scared to think there is something else.

It sounds like it could affect the idle from the sounds of it. I asked Dave about the idle A/F being high 13's low 14's and he didn't think that was a problem. Some just run leaner like that it seems.

 

[max rolph]

sooo i finally test dwn to when light is on solid and there is only a gallon left.... ALL FIXED, would not even stall locing up and sliding to a stop or accelerated dwn a hill and let off coasted right dwn to an idle!! TFG!, soo it was eother the Quarum pump that was cutting out when fuel lavel was lower... or the return line to the basket, i changed the pump to a Walbro 255 from Quarum 340, put new sock on the pump cleaned the crows feet and put clamps on ALL fuel lines, changed the plastic elbow on return line to a metal one from kimpex and it has a 1/4 nipple on bottom to put a 4" piece of hose directly into basket. tested with 100 octane VP just in case it got low and at least the higher octane saves the detonation.

Also just got the STOCK 3"mod muffler from TD and took off the SQ 3" ...soo this weeks ride in northern Quebec doesnt land me a huge fine. tested and it seams to have lost a little mid range and the rpms were a little slower climbing but got exactly same rpm as with the SQ3" 9050..... just took about 50' longer to hit it. seams a few dec quieter.... doesnt look as pretty as the polished stainless SQ but after i polished it it will pass.

 

[SDFTCAT]

Max, good to hear your your sled is all good now!

 

[stgdz]

So I'm in the process of doing this, is there any tricks for pulling the basket out? It's plastic and I don't want to wrench in it trying to get it out. I got it about half way out but was.putting a fair amount of force trying to pull it out.

And yes I tried to get that clear line to line up with the relief cut.


Once it's out you have to turns those plastic insert sideways and then pull on them to get them to come out? I saw the side ways to unlock them but didn't know how to release. I'm guessing you need to pull on it.

 

[max rolph]

it takes a bit of force to come out.

 

[stgdz]

it takes a bit of force to come out.

How about those plastic bolts for the basket? Same amount of force to remove?

 

[max rolph]

The little plastic plugs -- just use a needle nose and half a twist and they come out.

 

[stgdz]

Got everything back together and realized.i couldn't get the guard back over the fuel pump clip. So I've left it off.

But I warmed it up with no leaks on any of the fuel spots. I did get a couple of tss errors though. I loosened the cable way up so that the throttle would touch the bar but not I have a bit to much slack in the cable.

 

[jonlafon1]

Got everything back together and realized.i couldn't get the guard back over the fuel pump clip. So I've left it off.

But I warmed it up with no leaks on any of the fuel spots. I did get a couple of tss errors though. I loosened the cable way up so that the throttle would touch the bar but not I have a bit to much slack in the cable.

Why could the guard not be installed? I would not run without it.. Risking anything gas/fuel line related is not worth it. IMO that guard is on for a reason and should be used.

 

[stgdz]

Why could the guard not be installed? I would not run without it.. Risking anything gas/fuel line related is not worth it. IMO that guard is on for a reason and should be used.

it took a little finagiling to get it in place. At first I tried to put in through diagnoly and then It slipped in place.