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3 gallons or less in your tank!!


Has anyone played around with replacing the smart valves with a Hydro-mat from Holley, I ask because I have a nice sized one in the cabinet that I could install while doing the fuel upgrades prior to the season starting
 
According to TD, Hurricane, and PEFI the stock fuel system is good up to close to 300HP. That said, I know there have been some reported problems with fuel delivery when tank is low even on stock sleds. The first "fix" would be to return fuel into the basket. This is a pretty easy mod to do. That should keep the basket full most of the time. If more fuel is needed (big tunes, bigger turbo, etc), then install a bigger pump AND return fuel to basket. Problem over.
P.S. I very much dislike the stock fuel strainer and the way they fold it right where the pump inlet is. I use one that much bigger and has a 90 deg elbow on it so it's not folded right where the inlet is.
 
Hello all. Anyone having any run issues with 3 gallons or less in the fuel tank?AND OR say about 85-90 miles on a tank? I have a theory as to what happens to mine and wondering if anyone has hesitation/ popping like a backfire/ knock lights on hard pulls. Or say starting and stopping fast with hesitation? I do not have a AFR gauge on mine but would love to run one with 3 gallons or less in my tank. Getting sloshing issues on mine IMO. Did a hard pull and was down on RPM and saw knock flash. This sled is tuned from day one with 9000 miles on it. It’s not the tune as it runs awesome with more then 3 gallons of gas. I usually never get to low on fuel but have recently. Had issues so we replicated it and sure enough it’s like clock work. Does it every time. It’s not octane related I can assure. As I have stopped and dumped TORCO in. Still does it. Every time with 3 gallons or less. My theory is the fuel pump is sucking air because the fuel is sloshing badly to the back of tank.
Had this exact issue last year. Hurricane has a fuel pump kit that runs the return line back to the fuel pump part of the tank that is supposed to address this. Just did this on my sled. Won't know if it solves the issue until the season starts. I know there are other threads here discussing this exact issue.
 
when you pull pump out, clean the crows feet strainers, as there is apparently valves in the tube that get fcked up with additives n such. mine still ran out of fuel on hard decell and braking and or going dwn a hill with 3 gallons of fuel in it... i had the return to the tank already with the plastic elbow and gromet..... i then pulled it out again, changed my pump from 340 quantom to walbro 255 and cleane crows feet and then changed the plastic return elbow int tank to the Kimpex aluminum one that also has nipple on end that is pushed through gromett and allows for a 4" piece of fuel line to be hung dwn into basket.... so fuel is not hitting top of pump and spraying out of basket. put all back and works perfect!!! sooo one of those things i did fixed it.... and the quantom pump wrks fine soo i dont think that was issue.
 
According to TD, Hurricane, and PEFI the stock fuel system is good up to close to 300HP. That said, I know there have been some reported problems with fuel delivery when tank is low even on stock sleds. The first "fix" would be to return fuel into the basket. This is a pretty easy mod to do. That should keep the basket full most of the time. If more fuel is needed (big tunes, bigger turbo, etc), then install a bigger pump AND return fuel to basket. Problem over.
P.S. I very much dislike the stock fuel strainer and the way they fold it right where the pump inlet is. I use one that much bigger and has a 90 deg elbow on it so it's not folded right where the inlet is.
I will be installing the PEFI kit and may look into changing out that fuel strainer like you showed. I appreciate all that you guys share with experience, TY remains the best collaboration of knowledge tips and trick without question. I maybe ordering the pump relay kit also, who knows
 
So I'm smelling gas vapors around my basket. I did torque it down to the correct 40in/lbs to but I can smell it rite near both hose exits.
 
This is after clamping your new rubber hose with pinch clamps? Any chance is residual? Clean up area with brake clean or similar and see if that takes care of it. Did you use full-circle type pinch clamps? Are they tight enough?
 
This is after clamping your new rubber hose with pinch clamps? Any chance is residual? Clean up area with brake clean or similar and see if that takes care of it. Did you use full-circle type pinch clamps? Are they tight enough?
Yup, I don't think it's residual as it has been there for a few days and most of it would have evaporated.

I also have not been hearing the "sidewinder squeal" these things make since then. (The sidewinder squeal is a high pitch noise that is a pressurization difference). With a full tank of a gas I got no squeal and I did not build pressure at the gas cap, so something is up.

Currently,
I pulled the basket and confirmed the the gasket is seated. I tried to remove as much fuel around the mating surfaces as possible and retoqued to 40in/lb. I also drained all the gas and will smell it over the weekend.
 
Make sure your return line is not pinched up at the front of the tank.
 
Yup, I don't think it's residual as it has been there for a few days and most of it would have evaporated.

I also have not been hearing the "sidewinder squeal" these things make since then. (The sidewinder squeal is a high pitch noise that is a pressurization difference). With a full tank of a gas I got no squeal and I did not build pressure at the gas cap, so something is up.

Currently,
I pulled the basket and confirmed the the gasket is seated. I tried to remove as much fuel around the mating surfaces as possible and retoqued to 40in/lb. I also drained all the gas and will smell it over the weekend.


Are those oetiker crimp clamps you used really clamping the hose tight enough? Typically the hose should be bulged on each side, and throw those POS crimp clamps away and use a screw type clamp so you can easily service these items. I've never trusted these crimp type clams to hold or seal good.
 
Make sure the area where the battery sits is not full of fuel. It’s easy to spill a bunch in there when servicing the fuel pump
 
Has anyone played around with replacing the smart valves with a Hydro-mat from Holley, I ask because I have a nice sized one in the cabinet that I could install while doing the fuel upgrades prior to the season starting
i put one in my 2012 turbo ,I was having the same problem put a hydromat in completely removed the smart valves. I could run 1 gallon and not have the problem, Steve at full throttle speed fixed me up, you could also surge tank
 
Are those oetiker crimp clamps you used really clamping the hose tight enough? Typically the hose should be bulged on each side, and throw those POS crimp clamps away and use a screw type clamp so you can easily service these items. I've never trusted these crimp type clams to hold or seal good.
I cleaned the area up tonight again with brakekleen and cleaned out the residual brake kleen that gets into the battery cutout. There was no gas in it the cutout.


As far as I can tell they are right and bulging on both sides. I have been sniffing around the basket and it's coming from the feed line area around the connector. I've covered up the area around the feed line with my hand and smelled the return line and couldn't smell gas.

The return line is just napa fuel injection hose and quite flexible. The feed line is gates barricade. I can't seem one ounce of gas coming out of the feed line and can't smell any up by the fuel filter I put in.


When I put the connector on it clicks in place. I read some where you have to give it some force but I've tried that and it won't go on any farther.
 
So I'm not going crazy. I picked my shocks up tonight and he had two 998's with the seats off. Neither of them had the baskets modified.

Took a sniff around the basket and could not smell anything around the fuel line. We talked for a bit and he mentioned that the orings may leak on a vacuum but if it's sealing up on pressure then it won't push any fuel out.

I know it's coming from that fuel input connection.
 


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