sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
-24'C today no problem to start my fx.
A guy with a venture mp here also have problem starting it when its cold. He told me that the dealer have been told from yamaha to adjust the CO (making it richer) Havent talked to him lately so I dont know if it worked..
A guy with a venture mp here also have problem starting it when its cold. He told me that the dealer have been told from yamaha to adjust the CO (making it richer) Havent talked to him lately so I dont know if it worked..
teerex
Expert
sniperviper said:
No problems starting at -20C in Swedish mountains. Sled had not been started for a week. Started at once.
BlgsRX-1mtn
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GypsyRoots said:sniperviper said:
Sorry, but what is the "CO"?
Thanks!
It's a setting that is adjustable on the FI system. It basicly works similar to changing pilot jets or adjusting the pilot screws. The APEx guys play with this when adding boost. Check your owners manual to see if it's adjustable.
Jim
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
CO= carbon monoxide. What an oxygen sensor senses. More= richer mixture. I would also like to know if this is adjustable.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
rfabro said:
Yes this is adjustable. Same procedure as on apex.
rfabro
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
What is that procedure, sniper?
donnyrhodes
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we have not gotten below -5 f here in ny this winter in my area but Mine sat for over a week and fired right up...........
I hope it will continue to do this, I like the warranty and being a 4 stroke, Dont let me down now!!
I hope it will continue to do this, I like the warranty and being a 4 stroke, Dont let me down now!!
Yellowknife
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Okay, let's recap here seeing as how there's 10 pages.
What is the coldest temperature that your sled will start at?
I'm not sure with mine, because its been either -20 C (starts fine) or -30 C (doesn't start unless plugged in) but we haven't had weather in between to see what the breaking point is.
I'm now running premium fuel to test their 'higher octane = colder temp starting capability' theory. Just gotta wait for temps to drop again.
What is the coldest temperature that your sled will start at?
I'm not sure with mine, because its been either -20 C (starts fine) or -30 C (doesn't start unless plugged in) but we haven't had weather in between to see what the breaking point is.
I'm now running premium fuel to test their 'higher octane = colder temp starting capability' theory. Just gotta wait for temps to drop again.
Yellowknife
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For some reason I had it in my head that you were having trouble at warmer temps than -30C. I think for it not to start at -30C is normal for these motors...but they should be able to start at that temp since it turns over so well.
How cold do the 120hp's and 150 hp motors start at?
If you got yours to start at -28 C, I'm impressed. lol
But when you had your video of it turning over repeatedly....I don't get it, it sure didn't seem like it was -30C with the speed it was turning over at...
How cold do the 120hp's and 150 hp motors start at?
If you got yours to start at -28 C, I'm impressed. lol
But when you had your video of it turning over repeatedly....I don't get it, it sure didn't seem like it was -30C with the speed it was turning over at...
Yellowknife
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Okay, well, after one hour it should start regardless if its -50. that's nonsense.
But as for a big bore starting at -40, I dont' buy it, not for a second...sitting overnight for 12 hours at -40, I just don't believe it.
But as for a big bore starting at -40, I dont' buy it, not for a second...sitting overnight for 12 hours at -40, I just don't believe it.
Yellowknife
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yeah -30C is shitty, but its what I expected going in to my purchase, you were told different, I'd be pissed if that happened to me as well. I went if full knowing I'd need power wherever I overnight. I made that addition where needed. For me, it was a toss up between blowing 2 stroke motors and giving 4 stroke a run for its money. we'll see. When it hits 20,000 km's on it without a motor issue I'll be a true 4 stroke believer, and every sled after that will probably be a 4 stroke.
I'm down at sea level too.
I'm down at sea level too.
Yellowknife
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ahhh yes, that's why i got mixed up...the fuel thing. right. should be interesting with this 'octane' test then.
sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
rfabro said:
You have to ground a wire and then a new menu is displayed on your dreamometer. I havent done it self but it have been done by my dealer on 2 phazers in my area. Yamaha scandinavia says that this will make it a better starter when its cold. I dont know if it worked cause I havent talked to the guys that have had this done on their selds after they did this adjustment.
Irondoghalf
Veteran
Gypsy,
Take the time to pick up the phone and call one of the Hill brothers over at Northern Power Sports in Fairbanks. They are the Yamaha/Arctic Cat dealer there. They ride, born and raised in Fbks. We both know they get much colder than we do on the coast. If there are any real issues with the 4s starting, a cut off where they need heat assist, etc, they FOR SURE will know about it since they deal with a loyal customer base.
i gotta agree with Yellowknife on there ain't no way in hell a 4s motor is going to start at minus 50 unassisted. You would be hard pressed to get a 2s going at those temps.
i do know this: my 4s atvs will go reluctantly at minus 10 or 15, but that minus 20 really makes a difference.
i also know my chevy pickup, fuel injected and relatively new, hinges on the -20 go/no go point as well. I usually plug it in anything below zero, but sometimes I forget and i have had to crank it to go to work at minus 20.
my thoughts on 4s is they should all have preheat at that point, trucks, atvs, and snowmachines as well. even with a low viscosity synthetic oil, there are just so many more moving parts that just don't want to turn at those temps. cranking speed is a big factor in start or no start conditions, whether its a atv/truck/snowmachine, and you just cannot get it with a tight motor in real cold temps.
most definitely, i would install the largest battery i could get in your sled. however much room you have, even if you have to revamp the brackets and tie downs, go with a larger capacity battery. i'm not talking a truck battery, but there are a lot of them out there for larger atvs and such that would give you more cranking speed and cranking capacity. you want to go with the largest ampere (amp hour) rating you can, and the largest physical size. relate it to ( no doubt you have experienced it first had) to cranking a truck and it will "almost" start, but when you have a friend jump it with his truck, it turns over faster and starts.
there is no much parasitic loss in cranking a 4s over a 2s its not funny. turning over the top end through the cam gear, chain, the cam itself, overcoming valve spring tensions, plus an oil pump, the crankshaft to primary clutch gear reduction unit...that is a huge tax on that little battery,
PLUS, its trying to maintain that 12 and a half volts the entire electrical system needs (sensors, ignition, ecu, etc) to run correctly.
those of us who have lived in arctic conditions for as long as we have know a thing or two about cold weather starting vehicles. i don't think Yamaha or any of them really have a clue due to no first hand experience. they might do "testing" for a week at times, but that really is not the same.
Give NPS a call and see what they have to say.
I don't get why your sled would not start after being shut down only an hour...that to me spells something else. But getting it fired first thing in the morning, for a test, i would take a known charged large battery, such as out of a truck, hook it right to your sled battery with jumper cables, then try to crank the sled up. you will have a faster cranking speed, and i would be very curious to know if this makes a difference.
Another thing I would do is put a digital volt meter (Fluke) on your battery first thing on a cold morning, see what static voltage you have. Don't use a cheap meter! Borrow a good one from a friend if you need. If its anything less than 12.3 or so, that really isn't enough. Then, crank the motor while watching the battery voltage on the meter. If it goes anywhere to the 11 range, no good.
A "12 volt" battery is marginal if it reads anything less than 12.5 volts in its ability to start anything. At 12.1 or 12.2 volts, its basically dead and needs a charge.
I've been a mechanic here for 30 years, on everything from outboards to atvs, snowmachines, trucks, and diesels.
Take the time to pick up the phone and call one of the Hill brothers over at Northern Power Sports in Fairbanks. They are the Yamaha/Arctic Cat dealer there. They ride, born and raised in Fbks. We both know they get much colder than we do on the coast. If there are any real issues with the 4s starting, a cut off where they need heat assist, etc, they FOR SURE will know about it since they deal with a loyal customer base.
i gotta agree with Yellowknife on there ain't no way in hell a 4s motor is going to start at minus 50 unassisted. You would be hard pressed to get a 2s going at those temps.
i do know this: my 4s atvs will go reluctantly at minus 10 or 15, but that minus 20 really makes a difference.
i also know my chevy pickup, fuel injected and relatively new, hinges on the -20 go/no go point as well. I usually plug it in anything below zero, but sometimes I forget and i have had to crank it to go to work at minus 20.
my thoughts on 4s is they should all have preheat at that point, trucks, atvs, and snowmachines as well. even with a low viscosity synthetic oil, there are just so many more moving parts that just don't want to turn at those temps. cranking speed is a big factor in start or no start conditions, whether its a atv/truck/snowmachine, and you just cannot get it with a tight motor in real cold temps.
most definitely, i would install the largest battery i could get in your sled. however much room you have, even if you have to revamp the brackets and tie downs, go with a larger capacity battery. i'm not talking a truck battery, but there are a lot of them out there for larger atvs and such that would give you more cranking speed and cranking capacity. you want to go with the largest ampere (amp hour) rating you can, and the largest physical size. relate it to ( no doubt you have experienced it first had) to cranking a truck and it will "almost" start, but when you have a friend jump it with his truck, it turns over faster and starts.
there is no much parasitic loss in cranking a 4s over a 2s its not funny. turning over the top end through the cam gear, chain, the cam itself, overcoming valve spring tensions, plus an oil pump, the crankshaft to primary clutch gear reduction unit...that is a huge tax on that little battery,
PLUS, its trying to maintain that 12 and a half volts the entire electrical system needs (sensors, ignition, ecu, etc) to run correctly.
those of us who have lived in arctic conditions for as long as we have know a thing or two about cold weather starting vehicles. i don't think Yamaha or any of them really have a clue due to no first hand experience. they might do "testing" for a week at times, but that really is not the same.
Give NPS a call and see what they have to say.
I don't get why your sled would not start after being shut down only an hour...that to me spells something else. But getting it fired first thing in the morning, for a test, i would take a known charged large battery, such as out of a truck, hook it right to your sled battery with jumper cables, then try to crank the sled up. you will have a faster cranking speed, and i would be very curious to know if this makes a difference.
Another thing I would do is put a digital volt meter (Fluke) on your battery first thing on a cold morning, see what static voltage you have. Don't use a cheap meter! Borrow a good one from a friend if you need. If its anything less than 12.3 or so, that really isn't enough. Then, crank the motor while watching the battery voltage on the meter. If it goes anywhere to the 11 range, no good.
A "12 volt" battery is marginal if it reads anything less than 12.5 volts in its ability to start anything. At 12.1 or 12.2 volts, its basically dead and needs a charge.
I've been a mechanic here for 30 years, on everything from outboards to atvs, snowmachines, trucks, and diesels.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Yellowknife said:
I've been following this thread with interest. Even though I'm not likely to see the temps you guys are, in Northern Ontario and Quebec (where I often ride) its not uncommon for us to get down to -40C or slightly below that (even at my house we've seen the odd, very rare night where its hit -40C or close).
As far as my 05 RX-1, it would start without any trouble at all at -40C (other than cranking slowly for a little longer than usual). I'm hoping (and expecting) my new 07 RTX with EFI will also start in these temps. Last season the 06 Apex (EFI) didn't have any trouble starting at very close to -40C.
